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Definitely do not want to confuse the thread, but Phil advised me on a 14MM front MC, and it's a world of difference from the stock MC. That stiff brake mentioned is much more soft with the 14 mm.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
Volume becomes an issue if you use the original lines or longer lines that are not Stainless Steel because more volume is needed across a larger span like longer tubes and you can have swelling. I think that if you are going with a smaller master you definitely should use the stainless steel lines. I personally have the original setup but all rubber and seals have been replaced. No matter the load with 2 people I can make both brakes start to skid on a ruff hard road and that is the best you can get. However you need real flexibility with the front brake so it does not grab all of a sudden. On a dry road going straight your front is most of your braking power. Slick road or in a turn you do not want that front to grab you want sensitivity so you can feel it. Same applies to the rear to a degree but its easier to recover or control the slide out. A quick hard front brake action can slam you on the pavement.
The end result is it must slide wheels with load but be sensitive enough you can control it.
To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
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