No go. Click, no click.

[Crusty Snippets]

Went to fire up Yami yesterday. Normally not a problem, fires up easily. Not yesterday, two loud bangs out of the pipes, and a try to fire just after releasing start button. Many cranks and he fired up. But when I tried later, all I got was click from the starter relay, and then no click.
Checked again today. Battery volts okay, load test okay. tried spare battery from other bike, same result. Removed starter, cable from relay to pos on battery, flashed neg to side of starter. Whirrr. Did the same with starter from spare. Same result. Starter is spinning. That leaves the starter relay, the start button, or a dirty connection somewhere. Relay is an Hitachi unit. Any words of wisdom from the group on this subject would be welcome. Is there a more reliable relay? Tried to kick start Yami as well. No go. So am assuming there is no volts going to the coils, which I think is also part of the relay's job.
Did not pull the plugs and check for spark. Not enough time. Was going to ride Yami on Wednesday but still need to assemble and install the rear brake caliper, and install a new air filter. That job did not go very well.

Unkle Crusty*

[motoman]

May check the main 30A fuse and its connection.

[Crusty Snippets]

No click

That fuse is okay. Will check all connections when I get time. Have been reading past discussions on the subject. All my other fuses are inline type. PO will have done that. Wondering if anyone has tried the cheap relay ( $10- ) probably made in China. Parts N More are around $60-

Unkle Crusty

[bikerphil]

A simple test you can try (key on) is first see how much voltage you have at your fuse box (any fuse). Then compare it to the voltage found at the red/wht wire solder joint on the solenoid. If you have a large descrepency, there is a problem somewhere with the power wire running thru the kill switch. Low voltage there can/will cause a click/no start/intermittant start condition.

[Crusty Snippets]

Volts

Thank you Biker Phil. I will check that.
My multi meter also quit, but I bought a new one yesterday.
Meantime I have fired up the much newer Suzuki. I will be done working on my boat in about two weeks, and then will study the wyring on Yami.
Road racing starts this weekend at the track near Seattle.
It is a run down I5 for me. Yami is the most comfortable for boring freeway rides. My winter bike the XS400 is buzzing around 7000 revs at 70.

Unkle Crusty

[Crusty Snippets]

Volts

A simple test you can try (key on) is first see how much voltage you have at your fuse box (any fuse). Then compare it to the voltage found at the red/wht wire solder joint on the solenoid. If you have a large descrepency, there is a problem somewhere with the power wire running thru the kill switch. Low voltage there can/will cause a click/no start/intermittant start condition.

No volts at the red white wyre on the solenoid. Volts to the ignition switch. Took the kill switch apart and checked continuity and cleaned. All good. But I may go back there and check for volts. PO put in line fuses in place. Volts to all fuses and fuses are okay. I will get the test light and poke with the sharp end to be sure there are volts at both sides of the fuses. Later I will put in normal fuses. Next I will take the tank off and check any connections.
Would be nice to trace the red wyre coming off the pos side of the solenoid on the bike. Wyring diagram shows it going to a fuse and then the key switch. So I will check the other side of the key switch.
Hope to have at it again this afternoon.

Unkle Crusty*

[bikerphil]

No volts at the red white wyre on the solenoid ...
Would be nice to trace the red wyre coming off the pos side of the solenoid on the bike.

There is a connector for the kill switch/start button under the tank on the right side. The pin style terminals in that connector often cause problems. GL

[Crusty Snippets]

Gotcha

Found that connector that does not want to come apart. Noticed the 2 red white which do the kill switch circuit. Volts to only one. Rusty screw in kill switch, found a shiny one from spare. Got volts to solenoid. 11.53 down from 12.12 with switch on. So the circuit is consuming about .6 of a volt. Got my click back, nothing more. Checked for resistance in solenoid. Red white has made a connection with the terminal that goes to the starter.

Other day when parking the XS400, noticed the solenoid is the same. Put it on. Got my crank back but no go. Had not connected the ignition unit and fouled the plugs. Ignition connected, let the plugs dry, and Yami is back to firing up right away. This is the second solenoid relay to fail. I think I need to carry a spare.

Meantime: Anyone know an easy way to get the stock air box bottom back on?

Thank you Biker Phil. Unkle Crusty*

[bikerphil]

Got volts to solenoid. 11.53 down from 12.12 with switch on. So the circuit is consuming about .6 of a volt.

Ok, that is acceptable. Does the starter crank if you ground the blu/wht wire solder joint at the solenoid? If it does, then there is a problem with the starter button wiring/switch.

[Crusty Snippets]

Button

Starter button is working. Everything is back to working. Hang on, I will check.
Yup, starts fine. But no power to the head light. Good grief. Back to studying the wyring diagram and asking you guys.

Unkle Crusty*

[bikerphil]

Headlight relay bypass (safe)

Unplug the headlight relay, jump red/yel and blu/blk wires in the harness connector and headlight should come on with the key.

[Crusty Snippets]

Head light

Thanks Phil. I am off to the mainland for a few days, so will look at it again next week.

Unkle Crusty*

[3Phase]

Thanks Phil. I am off to the mainland for a few days, so will look at it again next week.

Unkle Crusty*

Tune in next week? Oh! <twirls mustache> I love a good cliffhanger!

Along Came Jones


.

[Crusty Snippets]

Light

Sitting here studying the wyring diagram that I brought with me.
A piece called the Light Checker Unit has a blue-yellow wyre, a black, red-black, yellow, brown, and blue. Before doing the jumper job, I may have a unit on the spare bike. If so I will try it.
Also on the spare bike are most of the wyring harness, with connectors that are probably in better condition than the ones on Yami.
From the look of the connectors on Yami I think they need to be replaced.

Be back on my Island this weekend and work on Yami again. I need the side car to fetch propane and other goods.

Unkle Crusty*

[Crusty Snippets]

Today

Fired up Yami today. Head light decided to work. Might have been the stuff I sprayed in the connections. Air filter box will not got back together. Too much shape changing over the years. Duct tape currently holding on the bottom piece, with the new filter inside. Foam pod filters in Yami's future.
I will put the back brake together tomorrow, and go for a test ride.

Unkle Crusty*