No go. Click, no click.

[Crusty Snippets]

Found it

There is a connector for the kill switch/start button under the tank on the right side. The pin style terminals in that connector often cause problems. GL

Yami quit again. Zero volts at red white on solenoid. Kick Yami, volts return.
Was the connector you mentioned. Intermittent current going through, as in on / off. Snipped both red / white and made positive connections.
Also the heavy red to the finned unit under the tank, had a bad corroded connection. Fixed that. Should be reliable now.
Is the head light unit just behind the steering head? That is what I was looking for when I got side tracked by no volts to solenoid.

Unkle Crusty*

[bikerphil]

Yep, I just eliminated that connector as I have with various ones on my bikes. Funny how they never give me problems anymore because they don't exist. Glad you got it sorted.

[Crusty Snippets]

Dead again.

Today:
Nothing when starter button pushed, and head light had quit again.
Connected the starter button wyres, the same as the kill switch circuit wyres.
Back to running again.
Check the head light wyres, corroded like the others. Did a test connecting red yellow to blue black, head light came on when key turned on.
So I snipped those and soldered them together. We have light.
Meanwhile the fuel lines decided to leak at the bottom end. Two new fuel lines and off for a test ride.
Yami was all over the place. Stopped and checked. Someone had stolen the air from the back tyre.
Back home. Valve stem leaking. New valve and a test ride around the Island.
Sweet. Thank you again Phil for aiming me at the correct wyres to attend to.

Unkle Crusty*