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1980 Exhaust Header Collar Shorter Than 1978-1979

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  • 1980 Exhaust Header Collar Shorter Than 1978-1979

    So, I just found the source of my exhaust leak. Better than bent valves! If you can visualize it, the collar that goes into the header on the #1 pipe is shorter than the rest of the pipes, so the flange is not compressing the collar into the cylinder to seal it. So, my options are . . . double-up the gaskets on that cylinder?
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

  • #2
    That would be one easy way. The other thing you could try is make a 2 part ring to space the flange the same as the others.
    The Kerker headers I put on the '80 engine were designed for the '79 standard. I had to cut the collars about 1/4" as I had one exhaust stud that would NOT BUDGE. Since the engine was painted and in the frame, modifying the exhaust was the easiest way.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
      That would be one easy way. The other thing you could try is make a 2 part ring to space the flange the same as the others.
      The Kerker headers I put on the '80 engine were designed for the '79 standard. I had to cut the collars about 1/4" as I had one exhaust stud that would NOT BUDGE. Since the engine was painted and in the frame, modifying the exhaust was the easiest way.
      Yes, that sounds pretty smart!
      1979 XS1100F
      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

      Comment


      • #4
        Yep, that's the big difference between the 'early' and 'late' exhaust. You need any spacer between the collar and the flange, NOT between the collar and the head as that will shift the position of the pipe forward and put the other connecting parts into a bind. Or just put a 1/4" spacer under the flange nuts on that pipe. This will cause that flange to be closer to the head, but it's strictly a cosmetic thing....
        Last edited by crazy steve; 04-06-2015, 04:55 PM.
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

        Comment


        • #5
          In theory, if I'm using studs much longer than the OEM 30mm, and using elongated nuts, is there a difference in clamping pressure on those flanges, versus stock nuts and stock studs?
          1979 XS1100F
          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

          Comment


          • #6
            As long as the nuts don't bottom out, no difference....
            Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

            '78E original owner - resto project
            '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
            '82 XJ rebuild project
            '80SG restified, red SOLD
            '79F parts...
            '81H more parts...

            Other current bikes:
            '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
            '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
            '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
            Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
            Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks to Steve's exhaust thread, he noted that the difference between the '78-'79 collar, and the '80 collar is 1/4". I will now either fabricate a spacer, or look on McMaster's site for something.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

              Comment


              • #8
                A 16 gauge, 1/4" wide strip of sheet metal would work. Pre-roll it if you can, or just slowly wrap it around the pipe, tapping with a small hammer to get it close. Should be all you need. If you start with 6", you can start with a strait part to hold in a vise next to the pipe, and work it from there.
                Ray Matteis
                KE6NHG
                XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Great recommendations Ray! I ended-up using a piece of 1/4" aluminum, then used a 2 1/8" hole saw for the outer perimeter, and an 1 7/8" hole saw in the middle of it. Cut a perfect donut, which I then cut in-half. Fits perfect around the header pipe. Should provide enough clearance between the flange and collar.
                  1979 XS1100F
                  2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The aluminum MAY "squish" a bit much. Keep an eye on it! never mind, just re-read and realized you used a solid chunk.....
                    Ray Matteis
                    KE6NHG
                    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                    Comment

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