New to me 80 XS1100G

[BA80]

Yeah, that's what I used to think also. The seats on the valves wear though and the clearances close up in time.

You're not to bad there, some of mine were down to .002.

You should be good, the engine in my bike I had no idea how many miles were on it when I put it in. I've put AT LEAST 60K on it. The valve stem seals are getting bad but it really only shows up intermittently on startup, a puff of smoke. Otherwise I ride the crap out of it and it uses very little oil.

[TexinMaine]

It's Alive!!

Well for the most part. Got my oil line today, Thanks andreas, and put it all back together. I checked the petcocks and they were flowing nicely. Took a couple tries before it fired up, then was a little rough idle, after a time it seemed to smooth out but is idling about 600 rpm. One thing I noticed as it idled was a sort of chug noise coming from the crankcase (?) also when I give it throttle there is a bit of back fire. Took a very short drive down the road and seemed to have plenty of power and shifted good, only got to 3rd gear. I will try to post a video of it running.

[IanDMacDonald]

I would attribute the "chugging" to an idle set too low. I believe the idle should be around 1k, +/- 500 rpm. Backfire could be from a too lean condition. How is the sync.? How do the plugs look?

[Bonz]

Idle at 1k, +/-500 rpm? I know that is a mis type...

I have an affinity for idle's set at 1100-1200 rpm on my bikes, keeps good oil flow when at a stop and keeps battery at least breaking even on charging, IMO.

As for the oil cooler, I took the 80SG (no cooler) for a nice ride over the weekend, about 85 miles and changed the oil when I got home. Man, even on a 65 degree day, that oil was freakin' hot. Much more so than the oil coming out of my ZRX1200 which is liquid cooled. I had a Kerker oil cooler on an 80G, and liked the idea of what it did.

[TexinMaine]

Plugs are new. I got rid of the oil cooler thing as it was kinda cobbled together and replaced with the original oil line. I am gonna buy a carb synchronizer here shortly and get that proper, also want a compression tester as well. Still need to do a an oil and filter change and check the drive fluids. I will also remove the tire and drive and grease all the splines hopefully on my next kelly.

[madmax-im]

I always set my idle at 1100 RPMs

[IanDMacDonald]

Idle at 1k, +/-500 rpm? I know that is a mis type...

Forgive me, yes. I was thinking of my 750. 1100 rpm's is where mine purs at idle. Down lower during carb sync.

[TexinMaine]

So I finally got some time to mess with my bike. I took the back rack thing off because I cant put the seat on correctly with it in place. I also got to mess with the idle after charging the battery. First off it was pretty hard to start but once it was chugging along I was able to get the idle up to about 1100 rpm. However as the bike began to warm up the idle would increase, if I burped the throttle it would drop back down some. But the more it warmed up the higher the idle would increase, up to 3000 rpm. I would burp the the throttle and it would drop to about 2000 rpm. So I would back the idle screw down to about 1100 rpm again but if I gave it throttle and let it off it would drop below 1100. So I would increase the idle to 1100 again and again after a few minuets it would increase again. So looks like I still got a bit of work to do, still backfiring and I noticed today after the bike warms up a bit it starts hard like the starter is dragging but after it cools a bit it starts like normal. Any tips would be appreciated.

Tex

[DiverRay]

In order:
1. Valve adjustment FIRST
2. Check timing with light, both low and high RPM for total advance.
3. Sync carbs with gauges or tubes.
4. Adjust idle, adjust mixture and re-sync carbs.
5. Ride it like you stole it!

[Radioguylogs]

Increasing idle when hot sometimes happens from air leaks in the intake rubber couplers between the carbs/intake manifold, or butterfly shaft seals. However, the idle usually doesn't go back down by blipping the throttle.

I had rich pilot jets that behaved exactly like you described. It was obvious it was rich.

Just some thoughts if you don't find the cause elsewhere...

[MarkD]

Not to confuse or muddy up the waters, but.....here's a thread to ck. out.


http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...revving+issues

[TexinMaine]

So I came across this while reading the Clymer manual, but it says that the main carb jets are different for cylinders 1 &4 and 2&3 in the 80 and 81's. Is this true? and could it possibly be a cause of some of my issues. When I took the carb apart for cleaning I didn't separate all the jets and assumed they were all the same size so possibly I could have one in the wrong place.

[DiverRay]

That WILL make a difference. Jets were different because they had the engine as lean as possible. You CAN put a single size across all 4, and make it easy on yourself! Go with the inside, 2&3, size jets in all four carbs, then tune and ride.

[TexinMaine]

The book say's 115 for 1&4 and 120 for 2&3.

[DiverRay]

Then put 120's in all 4, or make sure you have the two larger jets in 2&3. You DO want Mikuni jets, NOT K&L or any other brand. The jets are NOT equal!