Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Why...... on dremel fix?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Ok after 2nd gear washer swap... Confirmed! Almost entire 5th dog is engaged with 2nd gear slot.... So that clears up post #1 why entire dog ear needs work.

    1979 F worst one i could find
    to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
    _________________________________

    We can't all get along!

    Comment


    • #17
      Now what about 5th gear..... The shinny wear area is how deep or lack of depth that 5th dog goes into 2nd slots..



      This shows 5th dogs after washer swap...





      1979 F worst one i could find
      to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
      _________________________________

      We can't all get along!

      Comment


      • #18
        OK i'm an idiot those last pics are incorrect.....I did not have the bolt on the counter shaft tightened down so the contact points are not correct here is an update pic.... after washer swap not quite full contact.

        1979 F worst one i could find
        to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
        _________________________________

        We can't all get along!

        Comment


        • #19
          I think what might be causing the confusion is the wear is only evident on the tips of the dogs. The reason of this is that is the part of the dog that first makes contact with the other gear when you shift. At that instant, the parts are generally spinning at different speeds, so that tip has to absorb the full force of bringing the engine and bike into sync. That shock of that impact causes the tip of the dog to be worn.
          -- Clint
          1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

          Comment


          • #20
            I'd be careful cutting on the dog ears. I think that they may have a nitrated coating on them to make them harder / stronger. I could be wrong.
            "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

            Comment


            • #21
              The gears are hardened for wear; they're cast iron and if they weren't they wouldn't last long. But the shift dogs aren't exposed to the same wear, the only time there's wear present is during shifting. Shift with the right technique and there will be little or no wear, be sloppy about shifting and you'll be right back in there fixing it again....
              Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

              '78E original owner - resto project
              '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
              '82 XJ rebuild project
              '80SG restified, red SOLD
              '79F parts...
              '81H more parts...

              Other current bikes:
              '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
              '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
              '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
              Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
              Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
                Shift with the right technique and there will be little or no wear, be sloppy about shifting and you'll be right back in there fixing it again....
                So with my shin at an acute angle to the bottom of my foot makes it difficult to shift. That said if I could sit further back on the XJ1100 then lifting the foot would be easier. I may be weak or the angle of my shin is way less than 90 degrees. A heal toe shifter can remedy this problem I'm sure. Then what is the proper shifting technique?
                Dell82
                Houston, TX
                82' XJ1100J Maxim "LASERMAX"
                SOLD 86' Kawasaki Voyager XII, 1200cc SOLD
                SOLD 82' CB450SC Nighthawk, FOR SALE SOLD
                SOLD 82' CB450SC Nighthawk, parts bike SOLD

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by DELL82 View Post
                  So with my shin at an acute angle to the bottom of my foot makes it difficult to shift. That said if I could sit further back on the XJ1100 then lifting the foot would be easier. I may be weak or the angle of my shin is way less than 90 degrees. A heal toe shifter can remedy this problem I'm sure. Then what is the proper shifting technique?
                  Clutch/ shift operation is combined ONE motion at same time, not two seperate ones.
                  81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I enjoy watching Youtube videos and listening to guys shift, and wonder who taught them, lol. I hear a lot of short shifting, usually from 2nd on up, and wonder if they think they're in a semi-truck. When I hung-out with my yoinger brother and Gabe (Down$hift), I was surprised to hear them shifting with no purpose, other than to make their foot useful.
                    1979 XS1100F
                    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Shifting is sort of like balancing the bike you have to get to the point where all actions and movements are muscle memory you do not really think about it much you just automatically respond. Turns and how to lean on what type surface starts to come natural as well as braking how much pressure on front and rear. The only way you get it is by riding more. So all you need is to ride more.
                      To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                      Rodan
                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                      1980 G Silverbird
                      Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                      1198 Overbore kit
                      Grizzly 660 ACCT
                      Barnett Clutch Springs
                      R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                      122.5 Main Jets
                      ACCT Mod
                      Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                      Antivibe Bar ends
                      Rear trunk add-on
                      http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by DELL82 View Post
                        Then what is the proper shifting technique?
                        Pull in the clutch, shift FIRMLY AND WITH A FULL STROKE, release the clutch. I bought my '78 new (yeah, I'm old) and quickly learned that failing to use the right technique would result in the bike popping out of gear. If you release the clutch and apply power as soon as you 'feel' the gear engage (which doesn't require a full stroke of the shifter) you can get a 'smoother' feeling shift but the dogs won't fully engage and that accelerates wear.

                        It's the popping out of gear under load that really kills the shift dogs, or god forbid, shifting without the clutch. Yes, some bike transmissions will tolerate this type of technique/treatment, but not this one. Yes, it will shift somewhat 'clunkily' this way (although practice can reduce this somewhat), but that's the nature of the beast. Some of this was noted in the original reviews by the way....
                        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                        '78E original owner - resto project
                        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                        '82 XJ rebuild project
                        '80SG restified, red SOLD
                        '79F parts...
                        '81H more parts...

                        Other current bikes:
                        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Lesson learned

                          on this list that when you dremel an angle to the dogs and slots to match they will pull themselves together, this depends on how far down the dog you dremel in the angle.
                          Did I say that right ?
                          I'm thinking with the angle on the dogs and slots the washer might not need to be swapped. Whatcha think ?
                          Thanks for all the help y'all gave me when fixing that one I did just to see how it was done, then sold it. I still contact the new owner to see how it's held up and he likes it so much he now has a standard F as well.
                          76 XS650 C ROADSTER
                          80 XS650 G Special II
                          https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
                          80 XS 1100 SG
                          81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
                          https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
                          AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X