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Re-building my R6 Calipers. What signs besides gouges, etc., could I use to identify a bad seal? I really see nothing that sticks out.
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1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights. -
Worn seals won't be obvious.... Look at the seal face that contacts the piston for signs of heavy wear (microscopic lines or wear marks) compared to the other sides. If the entire face shows none of the original finish, the seal is probably worn too much. Another check is when you reassemble the calipers, if the piston pushes into it's bore too easily, the seal is worn too much. You should have to give a pretty good 'push' on the piston to get it 'started' into the seal; once it's in, it should push in the rest of the way with only moderate pressure. Make sure you lube the piston/bore with some brake fluid or red rubber grease.
My experience is that any seal with under about 50K miles will be reusable unless there was 'issues' in the caliper and/or rotor such as corrosion, a damaged piston, or a out-of-round rotor.Last edited by crazy steve; 03-03-2015, 11:34 AM.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone... -
The seals looked okay, but my gut told me to buy a rebuild kit for the calipers anyways. It's good insurance, as the pistons cleaned-up well, and I don't need a tiny piece of rubber being my downfall.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.Comment
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You have to hate that! On the bright side, when you tear it back down to replace that seal you decided not to replace originally, it is MUCH easier to get apart and MUCH cleaner too!-- Clint
1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989Comment
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