80 Midnight Special 2k miles- Project

[mrhammer2u]

And if the Berrymans doesn't work I will buy the tool.

Do any of you ever use a wire wheel on a drill for corrosion?

Thanks again, Brian

Be careful here. Don't use steel brush on alum. I also tried a brass wheel but I had to press down REAL hard which ended up scratching rather than just cleaning. I've yet to find a good tool for removing corrosion and pitting.

[crazy steve]

Getting that corrosion off the aluminum will be tough. Any part that's removable except for the block, cylinder, and head should be sandblasted, baked for a hour at about 300 degrees, then blasted again to be sure you got it all. If you end up with deep pitting (yours don't look quite that bad), you'll have to remove the pits. You can skip the baking and second sandblast if polishing the part, do not skip if painting or coating. Don't use a powered wire wheel, those will remove metal, look here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39869 . The scotchbrite works much better, if painting/coating you can do it all with blue pads.

For the block, head, cylinder if you aren't going to pull the motor all the way down (and I wouldn't), either pull the motor out, mask all openings well, then sandblast OR use a small stainless steel 'toothbrush' (available at welding outlets) and thoroughly brush away all the corrosion. HF sells a 'bore brush' assortment that works well for getting in between the fins. This is time-consuming but essential if you want the corrosion to stay gone. I brush-paint the head/cylinders, works much better that spraying; look here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...highlight=yawn

Post your progress, and if you have more questions just ask....

[Brian]

Great info Crazy Steve! I removed the carbs/ air box and am soaking the pins to the floats.

I believe that I am lucky on this bike in many ways, mostly low use. I also believe painting engine parts, etc... black after cleaning is better than dealing with the clear coated silver motors.

Once on the road I will need to decide which bike to keep. Love my Ruby Red 79 special with the 750 higher geared final drive and other improvements I did. Also like the performance and have never rode an 80 to compare.

[crazy steve]

One other thing to check; with the bike 'sweating' under that tarp, check/clean every electrical connection on the bike or it's liable to drive you crazy with intermittent problems. Buy and use some DeOxit 'gold' on those....

[Brian]

UPDATE - Back to Life!!!

I wanted to update everyone that after total disassembly of the carbs, replacement of shut off jets and attached plugs, major jet and overall carb cleaning, unlocking the slides and linkage, oil change (will change again soon), cleaning and painting (while carbs and air box were out), bleeding brakes, new plugs... you know the usual... the bike started right up!!! I ran without a clutch for a few minutes then it started working, so I gassed it up and rode on a short 30 miler in the pouring rain. and as you guessed the tires are like rocks so I had to take it easy. Love the torque monster that is an XS!

Here are the latest pix:





Only performance issue is that all 4 cylinders are running very lean at 0-1/4 throttle, probably because I put in a UNI filter. I intentionally ran it a 1/8 throttle and checked the plugs- they were all white! so looking to put in larger pilot jets- any recommendations? I think at least 2 sizes bigger.

BTW, very excited for the new bike! will likely sell my 79 Ruby Red Special (though I love it) and keep this 80 MNS.

[motoman]

Bike looks good.......and excellent results! I'd leave the stock jetting(42.5 pilots/110mains) since all else intake is stock. The Unifilter is no cause for jetting change, and fuel as it is, white plugs are common. BTW, you didn't state whether you'd actually had done an idle mixture setting and carb sync.

[Brian]

Thanks Motoman! I have not done the Idle mixture setting or carb sync, but will for sure. I personally believe a white plug is scary lean and course adjustments for 0 - 1/4 throttle should be done with the pilot 1st, and the air screws should be used for finer adjustments. Then main jets (which are fine as is) and needle height (or main shimming) can be played with if desired.

I dropped in 45 pilots and it still runs lean and pops on cold start even with full choke, but runs much better. Now I will remove the air screw plugs and look to dial it in. I will probably be chastised but want to be honest about what I believe after years of card tuning, and the results are very good so far.

Also, I now am looking at eliminating the leaking octopus with fuel filters. Any recommendations on where to get the "Y" fittings and what fuel filters to use? I might plug the prime fuel lines, thinking the main lines act like primes with no need for vacuum.

[tcoop]

Brass fittings
http://www.vendio.com/stores/pnevmo/...id/lid=9277338

[DiverRay]

I saw some brass fittings on one of the "card stands" at my local auto parts store. Don't remember the company name on the stand, but it was NOT a nationwide chain store.

[motoman]

Thanks Motoman! I have not done the Idle mixture setting or carb sync, but will for sure. I personally believe a white plug is scary lean and course adjustments for 0 - 1/4 throttle should be done with the pilot 1st, and the air screws should be used for finer adjustments. Then main jets (which are fine as is) and needle height (or main shimming) can be played with if desired.

I dropped in 45 pilots and it still runs lean and pops on cold start even with full choke, but runs much better. Now I will remove the air screw plugs and look to dial it in. I will probably be chastised but want to be honest about what I believe after years of card tuning, and the results are very good so far.

Also, I now am looking at eliminating the leaking octopus with fuel filters. Any recommendations on where to get the "Y" fittings and what fuel filters to use? I might plug the prime fuel lines, thinking the main lines act like primes with no need for vacuum.

Actually, the stock 42.5 pilots, you'll soon find to be fine. The incorect running, at this point at least without having done an actual idle mix setting/sync(they DO play a part throughout rpm range), IMO, is the fact you apparently from what you've stated have not removed the tin seals over top the recessed idle mix screws. If this the case when you cleaned carbs, that mixture orfice is likely restricted. Guess your aware their are teeny o-rings on those mixture screws. Age and heat tend to make them unrecognizable as an actual 0-ring in some instances. They act as a seal to keep foreign matter out of threads and vacuum in. Lightly seat each one before removal, counting turns. Use that as a guide for initial 'bench' setting.
Just all part of the 'tripple clean' joked about on here........if you can getr' done doing them twice, your one step ahead of the game.

[Brian]

Thanks Motoman, I did not clean in the idle mixture area so you could be right. I thought I took everything apart, but left that alone. I sill disagree that white plugs are ok, but will remove the plugs today and take a look. I checked the o rings on the needle yet, not the air screw.

Thanks again,
Brian

[Brian]

when I said I will remove the plugs today, I meant the air screw plugs.

[jetmechmarty]

Thanks Motoman, I did not clean in the idle mixture area so you could be right. I thought I took everything apart, but left that alone. I sill disagree that white plugs are ok, but will remove the plugs today and take a look. I checked the o rings on the needle yet, not the air screw.

Thanks again,
Brian

Plugs should be white in the porcelain part when running perfect. It get's spotted with flecks of aluminum when lean and melting piston. I take comfort in a little tan color even though it indicates a slight rich condition.

[MPittma100]

Lean?

Thanks Motoman, I did not clean in the idle mixture area so you could be right. I thought I took everything apart, but left that alone. I sill disagree that white plugs are ok, but will remove the plugs today and take a look. I checked the o rings on the needle yet, not the air screw.

Thanks again,
Brian

The 1980 and 1981 models were lean by design. May not have enough time on the plugs at 30 miles in the rain to get an accurate read. Factory jetting/settings are NOT too lean and will work properly. You should get 40+ mpg with this bike. I agree with Marty on the tan plug coloring being optimal.

[Brian]

thanks everyone. I agree on tan. The tops were stark white and bike was hot and lean.

One last question, what is the best way to get the plugs out for the air screws?

I started drilling and ma nervous!

Brian