Fired up for the first time, how to keep it running?

[DiverRay]

edit: do you mean the long black, or the short black insulation right near the ends of the wires at the coil?

The top picture, the black should be about 1/2" long and between the wire and the center crimp. The crimp at the pick-up coil is OK. The black sleeve is the reason you have the blue wire rubbing on the hold down bolt. These wires are VERY SPECIAL, silicon insulation and they have nylon threads mixed with the copper for strength. I've looked at trying to get some, but I need to spend about $150 per color, as you have to buy a 100' roll.....

[Schming]

PU coil wire

DiverRay, you can use the test leads from an inexpensive (HF) multi-tester for the PU coil wire replacement.
I beleive Radio Shack sells just the leads, separately, also.

[MPittma100]

Tug Anyway

Thanks, I hate posting from my phone.

Someone put in some in-line fuses, like the white one at the edge of the frame. The others are out of the frame.

Nothing obvious jumps out at me, aside from the fact that there's been work done around the fuses. No broken wires that I can see. If the pickup wires are broken, I'm not sure how I would tell. The writeup I found says tug on each one and look for stretching, I see none but I don't want to tug too hard. I really ought to get a multimeter and learn to use it. But I'm open to ideas in the mean time.

It is more likely to most likely that you could have a pick coil wire(s) broken - especially since they are still installed into the original clamps.

[jetmechmarty]

DiverRay, you can use the test leads from an inexpensive (HF) multi-tester for the PU coil wire replacement.
I beleive Radio Shack sells just the leads, separately, also.

The heat under the cover will destroy the insulation of the test lead wires making it a time limited repair. DiverRay knows the permanent fix and it's stupid money.

[oakback]

The top picture, the black should be about 1/2" long and between the wire and the center crimp. The crimp at the pick-up coil is OK. The black sleeve is the reason you have the blue wire rubbing on the hold down bolt.

Ok, I removed that black sleeve.

A VOM can be had from Harbor Freight for about $5, and is worth it. It will allow you to check the resistance of the coils, and if you put it into the connector that goes into the TCI box, you can watch as you tug wires, and SEE if you have an "open".

I plan on picking up a multimeter on my way home today. Could someone give me more details on this process mentioned above, in case I can't figure out which wire is broken by looking/tugging at them?

The heat under the cover will destroy the insulation of the test lead wires making it a time limited repair. DiverRay knows the permanent fix and it's stupid money.

What wire should I use then?

[jetmechmarty]

What wire should I use then?

That is a very good question. My repair has failed again. You need high heat insulation. Teflon could be the answer, but it isn't cheap. Also, it would be best to use an uninsulated butt splice and some heat shrink. My local Ace has short barrel splices maybe a quarter inch long. You can do the job right, or do it again. I did it roadside the first time, so now comes the third time. I'm telling you from experience. Spending $300 as pointed out by DiverRay is the right fix, but we all know that's not likely to happen. I wish I could be more help, but I'm facing this dilemma myself. Worst case, make sure you leave enough wire to make the repair again.

It's a design flaw. The XS650 had a better system: points, then fully electronic in 1980. Flexing wires is the Achilles heel of the system.

[oakback]

Would something like this help extend the life? For covering flexible test lead wires.

X-Treme Tape:

Is Self-Fusing...No Adhesive
Withstands Over 500°F (260°C) of Heat
Remains Flexible to -85°F (-60°C)
Has an Amazing 700 PSI Tensile Strength
Insulates to 8,000 Volts per Unstretched Layer
UL Listed
Stretches 300%
Is Made in the USA!

[IanDMacDonald]

I'd go with that. However, I used high temp braided silicone rubber wire for another bike, and it worked perfect. Not really expensive either. Same wire used on dryers, ovens, etc.

[oakback]

Alright, I'm not doubting any of y'all's input, but I'm tugging every inch of each wire until my fingers hurt. I can see how I'm stretching the insulation over the wire, as it bunches up on either side of my fingers, but I see no signs of a wire breakage. I'll try again...

...yup, I tugged hard enough to pull apart the insulation, exposing the wire underneath (unbroken), whoops.



I picked up a DMM today, I'm just not sure how to utilize it to help here.

[bikerphil]

If they don't stretch, they are probably not broken. You can check the ohms by unpluging the 4 wire connector at the TCI, and at the plug, connect one meter lead to the grn/wht and the other to one of the yel wires. You should have a reading somewhere around 720 ohms. Repeat with the red/wht and other yel wire.

[DiverRay]

Use a little of that tape to repair the insulation, or give it a shot of electronics grade RTV(silicon seal).
The DMM is easy:
1. unplug the 4 wire connector from the TCI box.
2. set the DMM to 200 Ohms.
3. Put the black lead on one connector, and move the red lead between the other connectors until you see a number beside "0.0" on the meter.
4. That is one pair of wires from one of the pick-up coils.
5. Now pull on the wires and see if the number changes. You should be able to insert the leads so they stay in each connector.
6. Move to the other pair of wires and repeat.
7. I don't remember off the top of my head, but I think the resistance should be under 200 Ohms for each coil and wire. PLEASE check the manual to verify the reading in Ohms of good and bad.

[oakback]

Thanks for the detailed instructions. The only combo that shows a reading is touching green/white and red/white (about 720). It doesn't change when I tug on any of the wires.

Green to either yellow and red to either yellow shows nothing.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Marty,
I have some 20 AWG silicone Rubber covered copper multi strand wire. Like the Monty Python skit it is in 12 inch pieces
Blue, Rred and Black is this heavy enough for the pick up coil s?
I can bring some with me


Diver Ray,
For an expensive wire with limited use at work we have white and add small pieces of colour heat shrink to identify. I'll see what insulation is on that maybe liberate a sample.
Phil

[bikerphil]

There is another connector plug between the TCI and the P/U coils, it is located in back of the fuse panel. If you aren't getting two seperate readings at the TCI, maybe the problem is at that secong connector.

[oakback]

There is another connector plug between the TCI and the P/U coils, it is located in back of the fuse panel. If you aren't getting two seperate readings at the TCI, maybe the problem is at that secong connector.

Earlier today I looked at that connector. I pulled it apart and brushed the spades with a wire brush. None of the wires looked bad at all, and the connector looked fine.

Edit: it's the middle connector you can see in the third pic of post #39.