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  • Diameter of frame?

    If your a purist.....you may want to click back now....lol.

    I want to chop rear of frame where the tail lights go. Then install a cafe seat. I dont have a welder. What's the inside diameter of the frame? Hoping I can find a plug that I can screw in. Maybe something from the plumbing section at home depot?

    Any non-welding ideas are welcome.
    Rob - 79 SF

  • #2
    A friend of mine build a rat bike. After he cut the frame, he tapped out the inside and put in stainless steel allen head bolt with a domed/rounded head.
    1979 XS1100SF with a Jardine 4 into 1, ZRX 1200 carbs, 82 XJ rear air shocks, ACCT
    SOLD - 1980 XS1100SG with a Mac 4 into 1, ZRX 1200 carbs, round 160 speedo, 82 XJ rear air shocks, ACCT

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    • #3
      Dime City has a loop that should fit the 11. To do it right, you need to have it welded.
      Marty (in Mississippi)
      XS1100SG
      XS650SK
      XS650SH
      XS650G
      XS6502F
      XS650E

      Comment


      • #4
        I would say do it right or don't do it at all. Find someone to do the welding.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

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        • #5
          Originally posted by mrhammer2u View Post
          If your a purist.....you may want to click back now....lol.

          I want to chop rear of frame where the tail lights go. Then install a cafe seat. I dont have a welder. What's the inside diameter of the frame? Hoping I can find a plug that I can screw in. Maybe something from the plumbing section at home depot?

          Any non-welding ideas are welcome.
          I hear yah on the non-welding. In my younger years of frugalness, I avoided welding a cafe, and it turned-out pretty darn good! However, that bike is never rode, so I cannot attest to my jerry-rigged loop. Welding shops honestly do not charge much for small jobs. Save a hundred bucks over a month, and do it right as others have said above.
          1979 XS1100F
          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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          • #6
            Thanks all. You've talked me into having it done right. I met a Machinist who said he can make me alum flush mount end caps for $75.
            Rob - 79 SF

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            • #7
              Before you pay that sum, I'd do a little research on those end caps. Look into handlebar end caps, as-well as conduit caps.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

              Comment


              • #8
                You may wish to add a loop instead.

                http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index....7733#msg427733

                http://www.sonicworxcycles.com/#!page2/cjg9
                Marty (in Mississippi)
                XS1100SG
                XS650SK
                XS650SH
                XS650G
                XS6502F
                XS650E

                Comment


                • #9
                  As a thought on the frame mod. The reason the "hoops" are used is to keep the rear of the frame rigid. without some type of brace between the two sides, the frame will flex and you will notice that in the handling. The minimum would be a bar between the two sides, welded on IMHO.
                  Any welder with a MIG can put on a bar you have already cut to size and fitted for about $25, as it would be a five minute weld, at most.
                  Ray Matteis
                  KE6NHG
                  XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                  XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                    As a thought on the frame mod. The reason the "hoops" are used is to keep the rear of the frame rigid. without some type of brace between the two sides, the frame will flex and you will notice that in the handling. The minimum would be a bar between the two sides, welded on IMHO.
                    Any welder with a MIG can put on a bar you have already cut to size and fitted for about $25, as it would be a five minute weld, at most.
                    Absolutely! I was thinking about the cross brace being in the way. That's my hoop reasoning.

                    The stock bike has a fender, seat, and grab rail tying everything together. With that all gone, something needs to replace it. Note the loop on the custom done by professionals.

                    Marty (in Mississippi)
                    XS1100SG
                    XS650SK
                    XS650SH
                    XS650G
                    XS6502F
                    XS650E

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                      As a thought on the frame mod. The reason the "hoops" are used is to keep the rear of the frame rigid. without some type of brace between the two sides, the frame will flex and you will notice that in the handling. The minimum would be a bar between the two sides, welded on IMHO.
                      There is already a cross tube just in front of the top shock mounts, and Yamaha didn't use any extra cross bracing rear of that apart from a bolt in mudguard mount.

                      Brat/cafe style bikes rarely take pillion passengers or luggage like a standard XS11's do. Whilst a rear loop is more strength and nice for style its not essential.
                      Tom
                      1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                      1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                      1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                      1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

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