a couple carb questions
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I have another bike with carb boot issues and I am actually considering just doing band-aid work to avoid pulling the carbs AGAIN, idiot that I am. I will do it properly, but the temptation to dodge that simple, yet disgusting, task, is powerful. -
You were so right and it didn't take long! As I'm in the garage figuring out how to add inline filters, it occurs to me that in my anticipation of finally getting things all hooked up, I had neglected to do a final snug-up of all the fasteners on the carbs before installing them.
Happily, I got en off and on in no time! and most of the fasteners needed a turn..Leave a comment:
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Move the intake boot clamps
Dean, after you've done this a few times you'll get the hang of it and you'll be able to make your own movie about how to install the carburetors or you'll use them for skeet targets... I'd love to see that one, actually.
Did you try to install the carburetors with all the manifold boot clamps still in place the way you have them in your picture? The video shows it's a lot easier if you slip the clamps 'forward' toward the head, slide in the carbs, then put the clamps back in place and tighten the carbs in place.
Also, you won't notice it unless you look closely or you've done it before -- and it's not in the video
-- but if you manhandled the airbox into position you need to double-check the snorkel where it fits into the upper half of the box. The snorkel can get pulled up and out, twisted, or pushed down into the airbox and it won't seat correctly. When that happens it squishes the snorkel out of shape and makes an air leak, which is not a big deal, really, but it can also make the relatively small air intake path through the snorkel even smaller until you tease the snorkel back into place.
Happy clamping!
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The side we're looking at goes down. The hose goes to the left. The finger goes to the right, over the top of the wire harness. The bolt in the top airbox bracket goes through it, then the bracket, and into the frame. Hopefully, that paints a clear enough picture.Leave a comment:
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hope you tightened down those clamps on the boots there...Good to hear you succeded! Hook up the crankcase hose( and a long vacuum cap slid over that fugly enricher lever
), should be good to run.
Been good to have run fuel to the carbs mounted, before installing airbox. Quicker/easier to locate any suspect leak from carbs from a float' hang',etc.
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Questions....again.
I didn't note how this brass bracket (with the hose) attached. The service manual or fiches don't really show it. Anyone have a picture?
Also, the rubber thing that the seat tab fits into is ripped. It doesn't show on the fiches as available, not even a name or part number. Anybody have one by any chance?
As I was putting the bottom of the airbox back on, it was being stubborn and not doable. Turns out the K&N (thought to be in perfect shape) has shrunk! and does not fit. A call to K&N, and the nice lady is sending out a new one. Good for them!
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Good to hear you succeded! Hook up the crankcase hose( and a long vacuum cap slid over that fugly enricher leverRay, old buddy old pal! (I don't know Ray by the way), you nailed it. This picture is more or less where I was at with my first post about this problem. Squishing the snorkel was the tip I needed to get the final bit of travel to attach the airbox boots.
The second tip I needed was to manhandle the brass bracket with a big screwdriver, after tightening all the boots, to get that bracket above the frame tab where it is supposed to be. (the actual original problem)
Piss poor design.
Thanks everyone. My carbs are not coming off again any time soon.

), should be good to run.
Been good to have run fuel to the carbs mounted, before installing airbox. Quicker/easier to locate any suspect leak from carbs from a float' hang',etc.
.
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From post #62, sorry I buried it in the end of the post... Maybe you would have seen it sooner...
"SNORKEL can be manipulated, removed or shortened to allow easier sliding rearward"
Glad you got it figured out!Leave a comment:
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That top bracket is easily pried over it's mount so the air box can be pushed down for carb removal, then back over the mount to be reinstalled. Done it a hundred times.Leave a comment:
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I ended-up removing my top brackets, and putting RTV and duct tape over those holes. The side mounts secure the box well enough in my view. Those brackets were a pain.Leave a comment:
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Ray, old buddy old pal! (I don't know Ray by the way), you nailed it. This picture is more or less where I was at with my first post about this problem. Squishing the snorkel was the tip I needed to get the final bit of travel to attach the airbox boots.Dean,
Starting with the top photo:
Install the carbs into the holders on the head. Make SURE all 4 are FULLY inserted.
squirt silicon lube into the 4 air box boots
grab the brass colored mount on top of the air box, and pull it back, collapsing the air snorkel against the battery. Keep the bottom rear of the air box close to the engine, so the brass mount is BELOW the mount tab.
You should now have the room needed to install the boots on the rear of the carbs.
Tighten all 8 clamps, and THEN use a large flat pry bar or screw driver to pry the mount back over the top of the tab on the frame.
Let us know....
The second tip I needed was to manhandle the brass bracket with a big screwdriver, after tightening all the boots, to get that bracket above the frame tab where it is supposed to be. (the actual original problem)
Piss poor design.
Thanks everyone. My carbs are not coming off again any time soon.
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