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The A2 bolts are fine on things like the engine covers and carbs, as long as you don't exceed the bolt's maximum torque spec. For certain high-load places (like the triple trees, footpeg mounts), the softer stainless bolts can be a bit shaky and I personally wouldn't use them.
One issue with any stainless bolt is ensuring it stays tight. As was pointed out, anti-seize is a lubricant and you don't want to put Loctite on the threads. I'll put a liberal dab of Loctite under the bolt head (wiping off the excess once torqued), haven't had one come loose yet.
Just to add to Steve's comment, I have his stainless kit on my engine. I liberally slathered each bolt with anti-seize compound and snugged them up. I've had to revisit a few of them as they loosened up, but most of them stay where I put them and no leaks have been noted.
Still, the elbow calibration is mine. I know some folks really like to crank 'em down. With anti-seize lubing those bolts, it's very easy to put too much stretch on them. I'd hate to pull the threads out of an engine case or snap a bolt head off.
If you really need a torque wrench, a Google search might find you the torque spec. Doing so will require know exactly what the lube is and what the bolt is made of. The me, it's just much easier to be cautious not to over torque.
Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
When these small 6mm bolts break, it's usually broken flush with the hole. This also usually distorts the threads by the break, making getting the remains out harder, so now you're drilling it out. As anybody who has done this can tell you, it can be a real bitch to keep the drill centered to avoid damaging the hole threads. While anti-seize on stainless is mandatory (no matter what kind of metal you're threading it into), it's a pretty good idea on the OEM steel ones too....
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
Yep A2 are perfect for cover screws, I was trying to point out where high tensile are used on the bike A2's will not be strong enough.
Another one to note, if using a stainless nut and bolt, like on the trees, use an A4 screw with A2 nut, this will stop galling happening, and antiseize.
If you aren't sure about the high tensile applications, look at the screw head it will have 12.9 on it, or 8.8
Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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