starting switch wiring question

[crazy steve]

Probably broken pick up wires.... look here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=543

[PMKXS11]

But why wouldn't that allow a spark at starting?

[crazy steve]

Depends on how/where it's broken... If moving the backplate any caused the ohms to go high, you have broken wires.

[PMKXS11]

Replaced the broken wires and still nothing. Constant 730ohms on both coils.

I don't know what else to do here. Should I try a new TCI? Is there any other way to rule out anything else?

[crazy steve]

How are you looking for spark? If you're just laying the plug on a metal part of the motor, you may not see anything. If the carbs are off, try spraying some starter fluid into the intakes; if the motors 'farts', you've got spark. Personally, I've never tried to 'prove' the spark until I was ready start the bike because of the difficulty of trying to 'see' the spark; you may be chasing your tail.

[donebysunday]

I've chased my tail in the past but they are getting faster, be careful, make sure you have a hiding place to duct into if they turn around !!!!!

Oh never mind, I see or should I say I don't see any spark if any real light is shining into the garage and if outside impossible to see. Bam bam turn out the lights then you might see the light ah spark.

[PMKXS11]

Tried the starting fluid, no luck. It's very difficult to turn the engine over with the plugs in. Voltage at the battery drops to high 8v-low 9v. I even tried hooking up another battery to the TCI so it saw more than 10.2v and still nothing.

I'm thinking I need a higher output battery as well as a new TCI.

I'm thinking this battery:
https://www.denniskirk.com/ballistic...rd/2000627.sku

I have the 8 cell Ballistic right now, but I bought that about 3 years ago, so I'm sure that's close to done. The battery mount on the frame wont fit more than the 12 cell

and this TCI:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Y6-Igni...1d753b&vxp=mtr

[donebysunday]

Don't pull the trigger just yet !
It does seem you need a battery but there are less expensive alternatives.

Lets get back together again and go over this !

[PMKXS11]

Let's hear what you got! I need something similar in size to that ballistic 12 cell, otherwise I wont be able to get my tail fairing on.

[crazy steve]

If the battery isn't spinning the motor fairly fast, then you're probably fighting a low voltage situation. Make sure all your grounds are low resistance, particularly the ground strap between the frame and the motor cases. If your frame has been repainted (or powder coated especially), if the coating isn't cleaned off the ground connections this will cause all sorts of issues.

Check your battery; it should read at least 12.6 volts after charging, and shouldn't drop more than a few tenths when checked after trying the spin the motor. Before buying a new TCI, make sure the battery is up to snuff. A good way to get lost when troubleshooting electrical is making multiple changes at once....

If you haven't already seen this, look here... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35339

[PMKXS11]

I'm using the battery out of my Harley to test this now, I figured it had enough balls to pull the XS.

Engine to any point on the frame reads .1 ohm. Everything else is buttoned up well. I had the powder coater leave all the threads exposed and I know they're making good contact.

[TopCatGr58]

You guys are doing a great job, so I feel bad jumping in here, but just want to throw something out there.

PM, you're trying to SEE spark on the plugs while cranking. You've learned that you are low on cranking voltage and in need of a newer stronger battery.

It's been stated about laying the plug wire and plug housing/metal casing onto the engine/metal to be able to see spark. BUT are you doing this with just 1 plug?? The coils are wasted spark, and the spark has to travel from one coil wire, thru plug, engine, then thru other plug, and back to the coil.

SO....if you aren't putting plugs into the ends of both wires on the same coil and grounding them to the engine, then you WON'T see spark because it can't complete the circuit. You don't have to screw a plug all the way into the hole, just a few threads worth to help it make ground, but this can still make it more difficult to turn the engine over due to the compression. It could be difficult to securely hold both spark plugs against the engine.

Also, I had a low battery and no start condition a while back. For a test I put a jumper battery directly to the Ignition fuse/circuit so it would get a full strong 12 volts separate from the cranking battery, and viola, the bike started! Good luck, keep at it!

T.C.

[PMKXS11]

I'm using an inline spark plug tester

[MaximPhil]

I've chased my tail in the past but they are getting faster, be careful, make sure you have a hiding place to duct into if they turn around !!!!!

Oh never mind, I see or should I say I don't see any spark if any real light is shining into the garage and if outside impossible to see. Bam bam turn out the lights then you might see the light ah spark.

Hi Done I hope that helped. but if not I and I am sure some others found it funny. I've never had a tail turn on me .... but good advice to to have a place to hide
Phil

[crazy steve]

...Engine to any point on the frame reads .1 ohm. Everything else is buttoned up well. I had the powder coater leave all the threads exposed and I know they're making good contact.

First, 'only' .1 ohm can translate into a 8-9 volt drop in voltage to the starter. This will cause the starter to draw more current, which only makes the problem worse. Second, with powder coating you really need to have bare metal where any wires attach to the frame, particularly at the negative battery cable and engine ground strap locations. A 'bare' threaded hole isn't good enough...