starting switch wiring question

[PMKXS11]

Oh, and out of the TCI I have a black/white tracer, white/red tracer, and red/yellow tracer that aren't hooked up to anything.

[crazy steve]

The white/red and red/yellow are both for the ballast resistor bypass circuit, the black/white is for the tipover switch.

[PMKXS11]

Did it work before you wired in the Suzuki switch? If it did, there's a problem in the switch. Make sure you have full power through the switch in any case. If you have battery voltage on the red/white at the coils and battery voltage on the red/white at the TCI with the kill switch closed and the ignition 'on', then the problem is in either the pickup coils or the TCI on the low voltage side of the circuit, or bad secondary coils in the coils (unlikely, but it would pay to check just to eliminate this).

I got the bike to run a long time ago, then took it all apart, did my frame and engine mods and now I'm reassembling it.

I have battery voltage at the red/white at the coils and at the TCI. My red/white leaves the Suzuki switch, and splits in two, one end feeding the TCI and the other to the coils. I also have 12V at the gray and orange on the other ends of the coil.

When I open the kill switch, I lose voltage to the coils and TCI, working as it should. I did not check whether I lose voltage to the orange(left) and gray(right) as well, but I would think so.

I'm going to leave the battery on the charger while I'm at work, I'm sure all the cranking drained it a little. I will check the secondary resistance on the coils after work.

Just to be certain, I have the red/white going to the two inside posts on the coils, and the orange(left) and gray(right) on the outside. Is this correct?

how they are mounted:

[crazy steve]

Polarity on the coils (which terminal gets the red/white or gray/orange) shouldn't make any difference, but you may want to check with the manufacturer. If the terminals are marked + and -, connect the red/white to the + just to be safe.

[PMKXS11]

http://prestoliteperformance.com/med...403_140404.pdf

This is what I found. (NOTE after step 12) Polarity does not matter.

Next step is to check the secondary resistance? Then if that is ok, what next?

[crazy steve]

I'd suggest checking the secondary at the plug caps, that should tell you if the coils, wires and caps are good. If the secondary resistance checks good, you can test the coils by 'flashing' the orange or gray wires to ground. This should generate a spark at the spark plug. If you get spark, then the problem is in the TCI or it's connections, or the pickup coils.

[donebysunday]

Dang that's puurddy. Nice work !

I got the bike to run a long time ago, then took it all apart, did my frame and engine mods and now I'm reassembling it.

I have battery voltage at the red/white at the coils and at the TCI. My red/white leaves the Suzuki switch, and splits in two, one end feeding the TCI and the other to the coils. I also have 12V at the gray and orange on the other ends of the coil.

When I open the kill switch, I lose voltage to the coils and TCI, working as it should. I did not check whether I lose voltage to the orange(left) and gray(right) as well, but I would think so.

I'm going to leave the battery on the charger while I'm at work, I'm sure all the cranking drained it a little. I will check the secondary resistance on the coils after work.

Just to be certain, I have the red/white going to the two inside posts on the coils, and the orange(left) and gray(right) on the outside. Is this correct?

how they are mounted:

[PMKXS11]

Thanks!

Secondary resistance on the coils is 30.70Kohm on the left, 31.23Kohm on the right. "Flash" test produced a spark.

My battery has 12.7V at the battery, but it drops to 9.8V when it is cranking, so that would definitely not allow the TCI to fire. So I swapped batteries from my track bike... I didn't notice I reversed the poles My TCI is good as dead, right?

[crazy steve]

...My battery has 12.7V at the battery, but it drops to 9.8V when it is cranking, so that would definitely not allow the TCI to fire. So I swapped batteries from my track bike... I didn't notice I reversed the poles My TCI is good as dead, right?

Maybe, and it may not have done your regulator any good either. If you reconnected the battery right and you still have no spark, yeah, the TCI is likely dead.

[PMKXS11]

****

Well looks like I'm on the look for a new TCI now. Was not getting spark after switching it back.

[PMKXS11]

Found this, I need an analog meter to test this, right? Tried with a digital meter and am getting about 10.8v but not much of a swing.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.php?p=390760&postcount=32

[crazy steve]

You can check this with a digital meter if it has a 'bar graph' readout in the display (the dotted line in the display as seen in the last pic here...
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35338).

[PMKXS11]

getting 9.9v to 10.6v swing across both. How do I test the pick up coils?

[crazy steve]

All you can check on the pickup coils is the ohms through them. You're looking for 720 ohms, +/- 20%, so between 580 and 860 is acceptable. I like to check at the TCI, that way you also 'prove' the plug connector in between. You also might want to lift the wire to the neutral light switch off if you get a bad reading, this has been known to short out the pickup wires.

But if you're getting a 'swing' on the meter at the gray/orange wires on the coil when turning the motor over, that means the TCI is working; you should be getting spark. Are you sure this isn't a fuel issue?...

[PMKXS11]

No fuel, carbs aren't hooked up. I'm not getting spark. I was going to see if I could get the bike to fire first, then worry about the carbs.

0.725Kohm @ the lower pick up coil, 0.733Kohm at the upper, so those look ok.
I noticed if I moved the advance by hand, the reading jumps to 31.50Mohm