Clutch adjustment frustration

[adam79]

Ive got the manual, Ive read the several posts, and the tech tip, yet after all these years I still have trouble feeling when the adjustment screw 'lightly seats' on the base. 1st I loosen the handle adjustment. Then I loosen the adjustment screw out to a point Im certain that its not touching, the whole assembly can wiggle side to side (the adjustment screw, nut and arm). Now, when I screw it back in, I will get to a point where I feel a light resistance, BUT, after I tighten the lock nut I can still grab the assembly and wobble it side to side. This doesnt feel right... so I tighten the screw more and the assembly begins to seat more firmly and tight, and I get to a point where the screw feels like it's bottomed out. I back off an 1/8 turn and tighten the locknut. I adjust the handle bar so I get about 5mm of play. I put the bike in 1st, pull the clutch handle, hit the start button, and it lurches forward...

I feel that if I back the screw out any more, the assembly will begin to wobble around again and that just doesnt feel right. Is that supposed to happen? BTW, my clutch cable is a new direct replacement from the yamaha dealership.

If the clutch isnt fully disengaging the friction plates from the steel plates, does that mean my adjustment screw is in too far or not far enough?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Adam,

The adjustment screw is NOT in far enough so it doesn't have enough travel when the clutch lever is pulled to fully separate the frictions from the steels.

Have you ever taken the clutch case completely off, or just done the clutch adjustment? There are 3 large ball bearings in a keeper assembly that can sometimes fall out if the lever is allowed to be too loose and is then rotated too far.

Is the engine lever very far down like around 4-5 oclock position when not being pulled? IF the entire case has been off, the part of the throwout lever can get rotated into the wrong position and the lever can end up being too far around CCW, and so the clutch handlebar lever doesn't have enough room or travel to fully rotate to effectively release the clutch.

I'll post/submit this now, but will add some photos later.
T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

Photos:

[BA80]

The wobble in the shaft is normal. Even when the thing is working right it looks like it's not when you pull the lever. Adjusting it properly is an acquired art.

the easiest way I can explain how to get the "feel" is to disconnect the cable from the lever under the cover on the engine. That way your only dealing with the pushrod itself and you can feel the slack in it.

Back off the locknut far enough that you can turn the set screw freely.

Now if you hold the lever on the shaft so the flats are engaged and push in on it so it's touching the throw out bearing gently turn it in ad you'll feel when all the slack is taken up in the adjuster. If your not sure if your there yet or if you think you may have gone too far, gently turn the shaft with the lever by hand. If there is slack then you haven't made contact with the throw out bearing yet, if there isn't slowly back it off until you have just a little and then back in until you find the 0 lash spot.

If your with me so far then step 2 is back the adjusting screw out approximately 1/4 turn, hold the adjusting screw RIGHT THERE and snug up the lock nut. Check your lever free travel. It should be approximately 10mm at the cable end of the lever. ( I like mine a touch less than that)

Reattach the cable and adjust the hand lever to match the free play in the throw out lever (i.e. stop to contact).

That should put you well into the ballpark. you may have to tweak it a little either way with the hand lever to get the feel you want.

I have found that a properly adjusted clutch WILL have a little drag when the engine and oil is cold and hit 1st gear a bit hard and be slightly difficult to get into neutral when stopped but it goes away once you get to proper operating temps.

Have I got you really confused now?

[adam79]

Hi Top Cat, I just installed new friction discs and new barnett springs. When I had the case cover off, I did not loose any of the ball bearings they stayed in place, and I also didnt hear them drop out when I installed the case cover. I will take a picture of the position and post it soon.

[adam79]

The wobble in the shaft is normal. Even when the thing is working right it looks like it's not when you pull the lever. Adjusting it properly is an acquired art.

the easiest way I can explain how to get the "feel" is to disconnect the cable from the lever under the cover on the engine. That way your only dealing with the pushrod itself and you can feel the slack in it.

Back off the locknut far enough that you can turn the set screw freely.

Now if you hold the lever on the shaft so the flats are engaged and push in on it so it's touching the throw out bearing gently turn it in ad you'll feel when all the slack is taken up in the adjuster. If your not sure if your there yet or if you think you may have gone too far, gently turn the shaft with the lever by hand. If there is slack then you haven't made contact with the throw out bearing yet, if there isn't slowly back it off until you have just a little and then back in until you find the 0 lash spot.

If your with me so far then step 2 is back the adjusting screw out approximately 1/4 turn, hold the adjusting screw RIGHT THERE and snug up the lock nut. Check your lever free travel. It should be approximately 10mm at the cable end of the lever. ( I like mine a touch less than that)

Reattach the cable and adjust the hand lever to match the free play in the throw out lever (i.e. stop to contact).

That should put you well into the ballpark. you may have to tweak it a little either way with the hand lever to get the feel you want.

I have found that a properly adjusted clutch WILL have a little drag when the engine and oil is cold and hit 1st gear a bit hard and be slightly difficult to get into neutral when stopped but it goes away once you get to proper operating temps.

Have I got you really confused now?

Actually that is the best instruction I've ever heard about how to get the feel. Everybody always recites the instruction manual word for word, but there definitely is a feel you have to get for getting that zero lash, because you cant actually see it happening, and the service manual just doesnt shed any light on how to get it.

[MetalMaxx]

I get nothing?!

I just installed new Barnet plates and springs. I have everything, as far as I can tell, right. I have adjusted to the feel as best I can, followed all the advice given on matter and when I let the clutch out I get nothing. So having said that.. When the case is open and I am looking at the basket full of plates.. Should there be any looseness in the plates or should they be flush in the basket with no movement? I have a short term memory problem and I cant remember how they were when I removed them 3 days ago.

[BA80]

Some pics would be quite helpful Ed. Both for us and you if you had taken some before disassembly.

[MetalMaxx]

none taken

I didn't get any. And now even with the 50 ft lbs on the clutch nut I have looseness on the plates.

[BA80]

OK bro' but wthout a visual all we have to go on is what your saying and it's really not making sense.

50lbs on WHAT nut? The lock nut on the adjusting screw?

[motoman]

Think he's talkin' bout the clutch basket assembly bolt BA80, but like you , not sure. Thinkin' maybe clutch assembly may be missin' disc/steel plate or something if all that is loose when it's together, things tightened down..

[BA80]

Think he's talkin' bout the clutch basket assembly bolt BA80, but like you , not sure. Thinkin' maybe clutch assembly may be missin' disc/steel plate or something if all that is loose when it's together, things tightened down..

Maybe but there's no way to get to that nut with everything assembled.

Something ain't lined up right and hopefully nothing is FUBAR because of it.

[bikerphil]

Might be the basket isn't on all the way binding/not meshing with the oil pump gear in the back.

[MetalMaxx]

XJ1100 Manual...

Chapter 3. Engine Overhaul- Page 10 section E #3 Remove CLUTCH NUT> (That nut)
The basket is fully inserted on the gear, all plates, disks and tensioners are in place. The "Clutch nut" has been torqued to the specified 50 Ft Lbs and I have wobble in the plates. How about a video when I get it open again? so the question should read like this I guess.. "Should I be able to move the plates in the basket with the assembly COMPLETE?" (except the springs and such.)

[BA80]

Without the pressure plate and springs installed ,yes, the plates and steels will be a little loose in there. There's no pressure to hold them.