Time to wake her up...

[BA80]

Looks like the seal is still there.

[ekim]

Well the "lost" collar was still on the tire machine at the shop...

Once you have all the pieces, things go back together quite well.

Thanks all for the research and advice.

Tuning is next. I think I may build the sync tool mentioned in the FAQ/maintenance section. Seems straight forward and doesn't involve bottles/fluids etc.

[phatts27]

Eastcoaster let me on to this one: Did you clean the enrichment passage that runs through the float-bowls?




Edit- I just realized I was replying to an old post. I must have been reading a few pages back.

[ekim]

sync tool

i am going to make the homemade carb sync tool:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=986

If i use 2" pvc, how long does the pipe need to be to dampen the fluctuations?
Is a 1 foot section enough?

[ekim]

Hello All,

I have been busy doing random restoration tasks and started to do my tune and sync.
The bike was running pretty well, although a little rough. I did manage to get some seat time (~75 miles over several short rides).
I did my first pass at a carb sync with my homemade tool. I think it unmasked mixture problems as it now runs rough etc.
I decided that I got my rides in so I would start from the beginning and tune.

I checked the valves and they are tight so I have the measurements but need to pull the shims to get their numbers.
I will be using the MP tool technique - I just got the tool yesterday.

=> A question...
Is it OK to remove all the shims ( one at a time via the tool)?
The buckets would be shim free as I work through the valves.
My thoughts are it should be fine since the motor will not be run and I can determine my complete list of replacements. In other words I do not need to replace them as I traverse the valves.
- Best to ask you guys

The bad news and I need guidance...

While measuring the valve clearances I noticed a gas smell in the oil near the valves. It is slight but I had my son confirm he could smell it.
I do not think there is a lot of gas in the oil. The oil level is about normal/full.

I know I need to drain/replace the oil (and replace the filter - which is a PITA to remove with the Supertrapp 4x1 installed) before starting it again.
I am guessing I have a stuck float.

=> What is the best way to troubleshoot this?
(as a reminder it is a standard "G")

TIA

[bikerphil]

Is it OK to remove all the shims ( one at a time via the tool)?
The buckets would be shim free as I work through the valves.

No, do not rotate the cams unless there are shims in the buckets, you will cause damage to the bucket and the cam. If you want all the shims out at once, remove the camshafts. If you want to use the tool, remove one shim at a time, record the number on the bottom and reinstall a shim before moving to the next one.

[crazy steve]

i am going to make the homemade carb sync tool:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=986

If i use 2" pvc, how long does the pipe need to be to dampen the fluctuations?
Is a 1 foot section enough?

A 1' section s enough, although it still won't dampen the pulses much. You can 'adjust' them though, by opening the individual valves the right amount. Open, but not fully open.

[ekim]

- bikerphil

Thanks for the guidance. I did one pass of: removing the shim, recording the number and replacing it. When complete I determined which shims could be swapped or needed replacing and then did another round with the MP tool.
I now am "well trained" in using the tool and it works fine. The trick is the amount of cam rotation (very subtle) when installing the tool and centering it.
The second pass to replace the shims went pretty quickly.

- crazy steve

The 1 foot PVC tube works well in dampening the fluctuations as best I can tell.
The amount the individual hose valves are open has little affect - no noticeable fluctuation.Tomorrow I will try and finalize the mixture/sync carb tuning.
It is running pretty well and I am trying to tune for that last bit of crispness.

As for the gas in the oil...
For good luck I tapped the bowls with a wooden handle then changed the oil.
It was black but still pretty slippery. I would imagine the internals got "cleaned" a bit. I then ran the bike on the stand for a few minutes and checked for increased oil level and any gas smell in the oil. No increase in level and no smell.
The gas may have been from early on (pre carb rebuild) starting - *fingers crossed*... I will watch it for re-occurrence while I tune and then do some short rides.

After such a long nap and then the processes in this thread...
What is a reasonable amount of new miles to be considered still getting things to re-seat and getting the cobwebs out?

Also, I didn't think to measure this when I did the oil refill...
What is the volume/capacity difference between the min/max lines on the oil level window - 1 qt?

[donebysunday]

You should figure on 500 + miles and that depends on the amount of fluctuation on the throttle, Had one that was all crazy low and after a few mi. around here it was running good enough to go to a rally. B4 rally about 110-120 after 400 mi. at the rally come home and checked it was 150.

[jetmechmarty]

My best guess is the MIN/MAX line difference is less than a pint. It seems when I find the level at the bottom of the glass, a pint usually brings it back into the range.

[ekim]

Moving forward but have an issue

Hello All,

I have been chipping away at the 'to-do' list.
To save you from re-reading prior stuff...

I have:

• changed spark plugs
• deoxit on connectors
• cleaned contacts on kill and ignition switches
• cleaned and re-oiled air filter
• cleaned the carbs twice
• adjusted the valves
• tugged on the pick-up coil wires while running and no engine change
• synced the carbs
• struggled to adjust the mixture (I can not discern any 50 RPM change while adjusting)
• adjusted CCT
• sprayed ether on manifolds (no engine speed change noticed)
• trimmed 1/4" from spark plug wires
• Currently running a tank with seafoam (1oz/gal)
• all pipes sizzle when water is applied

Bike has been run about 150 miles since awakening.

My issue:
It starts fine and runs at speed (3K+ RPM) fine

At idle a slight increase of the throttle (in neutral or in gear) sputters and misses. It does this from 1100 to ~2000 rpm.
I can power through it but parking lot negotiation is 'thrilling'

Is it the idle/pilot carb circuit or an electrical problem?

What should I do/check next?
I have not found this scenario in any other posts/threads

... hat in hand

[motoman]

Hello All,

I have been chipping away at the 'to-do' list.
To save you from re-reading prior stuff...

I have:

• changed spark plugs
• deoxit on connectors
• cleaned contacts on kill and ignition switches
• cleaned and re-oiled air filter
• cleaned the carbs twice
• adjusted the valves
• tugged on the pick-up coil wires while running and no engine change
• synced the carbs
• struggled to adjust the mixture (I can not discern any 50 RPM change while adjusting)
• adjusted CCT
• sprayed ether on manifolds (no engine speed change noticed)
• trimmed 1/4" from spark plug wires
• Currently running a tank with seafoam (1oz/gal)
• all pipes sizzle when water is applied

Bike has been run about 150 miles since awakening.

My issue:
It starts fine and runs at speed (3K+ RPM) fine

At idle a slight increase of the throttle (in neutral or in gear) sputters and misses. It does this from 1100 to ~2000 rpm.
I can power through it but parking lot negotiation is 'thrilling'

Is it the idle/pilot carb circuit or an electrical problem?

What should I do/check next?
I have not found this scenario in any other posts/threads

... hat in hand

Two possible issues, fueling or secodary ignition, or both.
Easy quick check.....key on, note voltage @ battery. Then with tank removed, key on, voltage TO coils........should be same as @batt. key on. If not, likely connection 'culprit(s)' are kill switch, ignition switch or both.
Fueling wise, that scenario is normally associated with pilot/idle circuit, particularly the pilot jets. They likely need another cleaning........and closer inspection internally with a magnifying glass to verify that.

[ekim]

Magic Smoke

Motoman,

Thanks for pointing down the path. It is easy to become overwhelmed and misdirected while scanning the forum posts.

It was an electrical issue!
I had a 1 volt loss between the battery and the ignition switch.
I had deep cleaned the ignition switch prior so I got my volt meter out and started the smoke hunt. I found one connector that I missed cleaning under the intake snorkel and I also re-cleaned several others. I pulled and reseated the glass fuses. I have the TC block but have not installed it yet.

After all of that I checked and have 12V to the ignition switch (red wire).
The bike runs better now. I need to make sure I have cleaned any and all connections. I will sit down with a copy of the schematic and check em off when done. And of course replace the fuse block.

Next I will re-tune and sync the carbs and 'undo' changes made in attempt to solve the low speed problem.

Again

MANY THANKS!

[motoman]

Motoman,

Thanks for pointing down the path. It is easy to become overwhelmed and misdirected while scanning the forum posts.

It was an electrical issue!
I had a 1 volt loss between the battery and the ignition switch.
I had deep cleaned the ignition switch prior so I got my volt meter out and started the smoke hunt. I found one connector that I missed cleaning under the intake snorkel and I also re-cleaned several others. I pulled and reseated the glass fuses. I have the TC block but have not installed it yet.

After all of that I checked and have 12V to the ignition switch (red wire).
The bike runs better now. I need to make sure I have cleaned any and all connections. I will sit down with a copy of the schematic and check em off when done. And of course replace the fuse block.

Next I will re-tune and sync the carbs and 'undo' changes made in attempt to solve the low speed problem.

Again

MANY THANKS!

Most welcome!. One thing......U didn't state whether voltages TO coils was equal to batt. voltage. The ign. switch missin' smoke was a good find and if voltage TO coils is STILL down, the rest of the missin' smoke can be found in the kill switch and that plug-in on right side of upper frame under tank.

[ekim]

Actually I didn't even pull the tank this round.
I will do a voltage check when tuning and the tank is off.

The kill switch was deep cleaned prior (I poorly worded it in my summary)
The primary coil wire connectors (4 wires in 3 connectors, which I think you are referring to) were also deoxit treated earlier as well - also as were any obvious connectors.