Many Problems

[CaptonZap]

Now, onto the electrical problem, I have ~12.5 volts standing, 13.7 at 3000+ rpm.

Don't know if the amps are different when running since it can't start. .

You smoking something son?

First you say at 3000 rpm yada yada yada.
Then you say you can't measure because it won't start.

Which is it.

CZ

[alaskey2]

I measured voltage before I broke the carbs. Can't measure running amps now because it's not running. I blame late night messaging and not the beers.

[alaskey2]

Huge shout out to Mike, the needle came today! Also, my new cab boots came today! This is probably the best Thursday ever.

Now, has anyone tried fitting Harley Shocks on our bikes? This came up on craigslist.

[crazy steve]

...Now, has anyone tried fitting Harley Shocks on our bikes? This came up on craigslist.

Can't speak to V-rod shocks, but 'regular' Harley OEM shocks are a tough install. The bushings are small (will be very little left if you ream them out to the XS size) and the eyes are wider than the XS ones, preventing you from fully tightening the shock nuts. It can be done, but you need custom nuts or have to grind the eyes narrower....

Aftermarket Harley shock on the other hand are easy; most have the narrow eyes, and have larger bushings with reducers to fit.

[CaptonZap]

You might also look at the geometry of the Harleys versus XS's.
Some of the harley's have the shock run at a slope forward to the frame, and as a result have to use stronger spring rates to support the weight. Which means that when they are put on an 11, the rear will ride like a lumber wagon, or a lumbar breaker.
YMMV
CZ

[bikerphil]

I fit Dyna shocks on my 79F, the bushings have to be drilled out (3 of them anyway) to 14MM and they need to be narrowed (whole eyelet). Little time with a drill and hacksaw, YMMV.

[alaskey2]

OK thanks guys, I'll deal with the rusty springs for now. I have bigger problems anyway.

I rebuilt the carbs and got em back on now the tach stopped working and it sounds like it's idling at just about red line

I loosened the throttle at the control and got it down to something that sounds reasonable.


Would a carb clean account for this?

Could I have hit something to knock out my tach?

[mack]

cable routing

Check your throttle cable routing and ensure it's not hung up on something. Also sometimes when tightening the intake boot clamps you can have one of the screws make contact with the throttle linkage. Check the easy stuff first.
You never mentioned if you bench sync'd the carbs?

[mack]

Tach

as for the tach. Follow the two leads coming out of the lower right cover of the motor to behind the fuse panel. If it stopped suddenly, the tach connection may have come apart when you pulled back the air box. Normally this wouldn't happen if everything is routed properly but you never know how someone else has routed the wires to the connectors. Look for damage and clean everything.

[alaskey2]

I didn't bench synch the carbs. I thought I needed those gauges to synch carbs.

[mack]

No

You don't need guages for the bench sync. Just use a bread tie with the small wire in the middle. Close all the butterfy's onto the tie so with a gentle pull, the resistence all feels the same. That will get them close enough so the bike will run good enough to warm up and do a real sync with guages. You know of course that the master idle screw controls #3 carb. Do the bread tie thing on it first, then sync #4 to 3, then 1 and 2. Lastly bring 1/2 in line with 3/4 with the center sync screw. Vertually the same procedure you'd use with guages only for now your guage is a bread tie and your accuracy is based on your feel for the shear force on the bread tie. Your motor should lope along at around 800 or so after it has warmed up using this method.

[alaskey2]

Ok great! Looks like I'm pulling the carbs again

On a side note, does anyone know offhand the size of the washer that goes between the spring and oil filter? The more I work on this bike, the more work it needs.

[bikerphil]

Oil filter washer:

ID: 20mm
OD: 30mm
Thickness: 1mm

Yamaha also carries them still, part #: 90201-21608-00 WASHER,PLATE

[alaskey2]

Thanks! I looked on bike bandit and they were like $4, no way am I going to pay that much for a washer that's going to be 75cents at a decent hardware store.

[MaximPhil]

Thanks! I looked on bike bandit and they were like $4, no way am I going to pay that much for a washer that's going to be 75cents at a decent hardware store.

Hi alaskey
Maybe not quite that easy. Parts N More have them. PM me your mailing address and i'll look for the extra one I have
Maxim Phil