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  • Need help with valve clearances

    I've been meaning to check my valve clearances for quite some time. I bought the motion pro hook tool last spring and still haven't used it. Every time I go out to do it, I chicken out. I now everyone says its pretty simple-but the margin for error is nil. I don't notice any unusual noise from the top end-but for peace of mind I'd really like to know that my clearances are good. If there's anyone in or around the KC area that could oversee me I'd greatly appreciate any help. I'll do all the work-I just need someone with experience to make sure I don't mess anything up. (The thought of taking a good running bike and bending valves is horrifying.)

    Anyhow thanks for reading and Go Chiefs! (They'll need a miracle today.)
    79 SF
    Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

  • #2
    Checking the clearance does not require the MP tool- just the correct feeler gauges. The tool for an XS1100 to remove and replace shims will not be a hook shaped tool.

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    • #3
      The Motion Pro tool is vaguely hook shaped. I found it useless but we've all had that debate before about its merits or lack of.....

      The XS1100 top end will get quieter as the valves wear into the seats. This means that the valve clearances get tighter. Check them all with a set of good quality feeler gauges and then report back with your findings.........

      If yo are not confident about this (you sound slightly not confident), I personally would be careful about using that tool.....
      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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      • #4
        It's not totally quiet-there's still the normal ticking and clicking of the valves. I'd rather not take it apart and find I need shims that I don't have-plus the gasket. I wished I'd checked them when I replaced the gasket last year...live and learn I guess.
        79 SF
        Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah, checking them is no biggie. Take the cover off and rotate the engine, measure and record, and you might be done.

          You might want to keep and eye out for a parts bike that you can work on that you have less pressure about making mistakes. I cut my teeth on outboards that were beyond hope. The downside is you'll be very tempted to try to get the wrecks going again, a very slippery slope that will lead to dead and terminal bikes in your garage and yard.

          By the way, anyone in the market for an old outboard? It runs...sort of....
          "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jrm000kc View Post
            I'd rather not take it apart and find I need shims that I don't have-plus the gasket..
            You started this thread saying you want to check your valve clearances? Do you, or don't you? if you do indeed actually want to check them, then you need to take the cover off and check them. Very few people have bucket loads of shims, if any. You need to check the clearances and you may find they are all fine. If they are not all fine then you should change the shims and get the clearances right......
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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            • #7
              ...And lots of people don't use a gasket on the valve cover, just some sort of liquid gasket. I've had the best luck from "The Right Stuff", but it is kind of pricier than some other options.

              If you find you need some shims, most bike shops that have been around any length of time will have some, or give a shout here if you can wait a few days for the snail mail swap. Take a micrometer with you though.. these bikes use a 29mm shim and there's some 29.5mm shims out there that won't work and you can't tell the difference with the naked eye even holding them together.
              Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

              You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

              Current bikes:
              '06 Suzuki DR650
              *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
              '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
              '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
              '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
              '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
              '81 XS1100 Special
              '81 YZ250
              '80 XS850 Special
              '80 XR100
              *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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              • #8
                Just jump in and do it !

                If you own one of these fine machines and wish to keep it in good running condition without having to blow a wheelbarrow load of $ to dealerships who know less than you then, get your hands dirty. There are very few things on an XS that are hard to do. First, get your self a manual if you do not have one.

                Having said that, it is not hard to pull the valve cover and you can use a liquid gasket maker to re-install it. I personally like Yamabond from the dealership but then, that is just me.

                Rotate the motor with the timing plate (left side cover) until the cam lobe is away from the bucket and use some metric feeler gauges (unless you feel like converting to American Standard) Intakes should measure .16 to .20 mm and Exhaust should be between .21 & .24 mm. If you are out of range then you will need to change a shim and do a bit of math (refer to your manual).

                Seriously it is not hard and you should check it periodically as it is part of the normal tune-up procedure.
                Mike Giroir
                79 XS-1100 Special

                Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Often, if you're lucky, you'll find that the camcover gasket is useable after you take the cover off. Careful use of a snap knife or scalpel blade can make the gasket come away with the cover. Even if torn, it can be reused with silicone gasket compound. Or, as has been mentioned, only gasket compound can be used...
                  XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yes, I do...

                    You started this thread saying you want to check your valve clearances? Do you, or don't you?

                    Of course I want to check them. If anything I probably go overkill on maintenance and servicing. To ease your mind I plan on checking them tomorrow and referencing my gaps with my manual.

                    I'd love to find a salvage bike except I live in an apartment complex so having a bike in pieces probably wouldn't bode well with the landlord. (Plus all the sticky fingers around here.)

                    My bike is my honey and I just want to be sure about everything before I turn a single bolt.
                    79 SF
                    Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Valve clearance measurements

                      Finally got them checked yesterday. Here's what I measured:

                      Exhaust: .008, .008, .008, .007

                      Intake: .006, .005, .006, .006

                      Pretty decent except for the last exhaust valve. I wasn't that concerned so I put it back together because winter is coming on and I don't ride that often during. Definitely be a spring project.

                      Okay so has anyone posted a metric/inches conversion table for shims?
                      79 SF
                      Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jrm000kc View Post
                        Finally got them checked yesterday. Here's what I measured:

                        Exhaust: .008, .008, .008, .007

                        Intake: .006, .005, .006, .006

                        Pretty decent except for the last exhaust valve. I wasn't that concerned so I put it back together because winter is coming on and I don't ride that often during. Definitely be a spring project.

                        Okay so has anyone posted a metric/inches conversion table for shims?
                        Hi, James -

                        Well, the specs for your '79 SF are as follows:

                        Intake - .006-.008 in. which equals .1524-.2032 mm

                        Exhaust - .008-.010 in. which equals .2032-.254 mm

                        As you can see, you have 1 intake and 1 exhaust clearance that are out of spec ... and all the others are at the very low end of spec.

                        I think the consensus here is that most like their clearances on these 11's at the high end of spec, because as has been mentioned ...

                        The valve clearances get tighter over time, which makes the top end quieter.

                        Adjusting them to the high end of spec makes for a noisier top end, but IMO gives you peace of mind.
                        Marco

                        Current bikes:
                        1979 Yamaha XS Eleven Special (SF)
                        1979 Honda CBX
                        2002 Kawasaki ZRX1200R

                        Rest in Peace, Don Glardon (DGXSER) 1966-2014
                        WE MISS YOU, DON

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                        • #13
                          Charts

                          http://www.xs1100.co.uk/engexh.htm

                          http://www.xs1100.co.uk/engint.htm
                          Last edited by James England; 09-22-2014, 06:18 AM.
                          XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'll add that if you delete the cam cover gasket and just use some sealer, you might get some contact between the cover and some of the nuts holding the cam bearing caps on. I've ran into this twice (so it's not a sure thing) but both times contact was 'light', just enough to mar the inside of the cover. Some light grinding will open it up easily...
                            Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                            '78E original owner - resto project
                            '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                            '82 XJ rebuild project
                            '80SG restified, red SOLD
                            '79F parts...
                            '81H more parts...

                            Other current bikes:
                            '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                            '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                            '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                            Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                            Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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                            • #15
                              Thanks a bunch for the charts Mr. England!

                              I was able to salvage the gasket-but I added Yamabond when I put it back together. I'm sure there will be no salvaging the gasket next time though...I'm in a parking lot and the idea of leaving my bike disassembled just didn't sound good...definitely buying a 5mm allen ratchet head for those 20 freaking bolts next time. I'd still prefer someone there that's done it before to make sure I don't do any fatal mistakes. I'll buy them a case of beer.
                              79 SF
                              Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

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