clutch....
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One trick I've learned with that clutch cover.. They can be very stuck on there and there's no good spot to get to to try to pry on it a bit. I've pulled off the cap where you fill it with oil and used a wooden dowel rod down into that hole to pry with, but what I now do is just leave the clutch cable all hooked up. When you have all the bolts out of the cover, squeeze the clutch lever at the handlebars and this usually pops the cover loose. If not, have someone else squeeze the handle while you tap on it with a rubber hammer. Then disconnect the cable after it is loose. Just thought I'd post this tip AFTER Potter took his off already. lol.Last edited by trbig; 09-12-2014, 05:48 AM.Leave a comment:
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I have OEM pipes. No need to take them off or even loosen them to remove clutch cover.Leave a comment:
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I agree with all you've said TC. However, it's much easier to deal with the reinstalling of the cover with the foot peg completely off and out of the way. It's no big deal to take it off.
Just my experience.Leave a comment:
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Hey Jeff,
Hold on a minute. You shouldn't have to take the exhaust, brake lever, footpeg OFF to remove the clutch cover. Once you loosen the nut on the footpeg bolt, the peg will just swivel UP out of the way. Granted, I have aftermarket pipes and not OEM, but they shouldn't be in the way of getting to the bolts that secure the cover...but I could be wrong...this would be a good place for someone with OEM pipes to chime in if they can remove the cover without dropping the the exhaust.
The Gas tank, yes so you can remove and reroute the cable for the least type of bends.
Sorry you ordered the gasket, we usually recommend to just use Threebond , Yamabond, or similar sealant/gasket maker instead.
T.C.Leave a comment:
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Thanks again
guys I cant thank you enough for all the help.....I ordered a new gasket, new springs (the good ones everyone said to get) and a new clutch cable.
So I guess the plan is to..
Drain the oil, take the exhaust, foot peg, brake lever off, gas tank, and cover, I am going to install the new springs put the MMO in like top cat said, change the oil to the oil you all suggested, and install a new cable.
cross your fingers for me and thanks again.
JeffLeave a comment:
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Hey Jeff,
It does sound like you might have a little corrosion or old grease in your clutch cable, taking it loose and getting it lubricated will help both in allowing it to return, but also easier to pull. Also, does your lever still have the little return expansion spring that connects to the end of the throwout lever and the inside of the clutch cover case? Usually the pressure of the clutch basket and springs are enough to push/rotate the lever back up, but if there's some cable drag it can prevent it from returning back up.
Yes, the 3 little bearing balls CAN fall out but I've taken apart a few clutches also, and have found that sometimes the balls WILL stay in position even if the lever is rotated around too far. There are little crimps on the bracket that holds the balls, and can keep them in place, but sometimes they've gotten bent/loosened and then the balls can fall out of the bracket.
So...hopefully it's just adjusted too loose and some cable drag. If it's adjusted too loose, then it won't fully disengage the engine from the tranny and that can prevent you being able to shift it into gear or out of gear if you don't have the engine and wheels running to have them close to synched.
T.C.Leave a comment:
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It would take more than half a turn, but if you loosen that screw (The one you turned counter-clockwise) too much, there are 3 little ball bearings in that throwout assembly that can become dislodged from their seats and won't let the clutch retract. If this is the case, you'll have to pull that cover to get it fixed.. and while you're in there, might as well throw some new springs in. I can't tell you how many of these engines I've torn apart and in the past. I was harder on these bikes/clutches than anyone I've heard of, and I've only ever found one single clutch disc out of spec. Others have found some, but it's an extremely rare find to see one out. For some reason, I've kept probably a half dozen clutch packs worth of discs if you find you need one or more. They're used, but in spec.Leave a comment:
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+1 on what Ian said. It sounds like an issue with the throwout actuator.Leave a comment:
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I'm confused. When you say it did not go into gear, what exactly do you mean? You pushed down on the shifter, and nothing? Or, do I have this wrong? I believe when I adjusted mine, I had to go out a little further than spec in manual. But, that adjustment should have no bearing on gear selection. The worst is when that clutch arm pops outta place after pulling the cover, and the ball bearings pop out on you. Pull in the clutch, and it pops it out. Even with a broken cable, gear selection is possible.I ordered a oil filter on ebay, figured I would try the adjustment (shouldnt of messed with it, it worked)
Well I took off the cover, and loosened the 12mm nut, turned the phillips screw counter clockwise about a half turn, and tightened the 12mm nut, took it for a test drive and was alot better.
One problem did developed I squeezed the clutch and it did not go into gear, the arm does not spring back down. Spring is good, can you tighten the 12mm nut to tight? Is my cable bad?
grrr
Need help in Zhills lol.
JeffLeave a comment:
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well crap
I ordered a oil filter on ebay, figured I would try the adjustment (shouldnt of messed with it, it worked)
Well I took off the cover, and loosened the 12mm nut, turned the phillips screw counter clockwise about a half turn, and tightened the 12mm nut, took it for a test drive and was alot better.
One problem did developed I squeezed the clutch and it did not go into gear, the arm does not spring back down. Spring is good, can you tighten the 12mm nut to tight? Is my cable bad?
grrr
Need help in Zhills lol.
JeffLeave a comment:
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I don't think you need a whole clutch, just the correct oil and some springs.Leave a comment:
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Leave a comment:
.........done with lever adjustment all in, after which that is lastly re-adjusted.
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