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  • drive train noise...sloppy...

    hey fellas

    new problem

    cruising around 1st or 2nd kinda idling around my trans or mid drive howels like an old school bus tranmission going in reverse..i used amsoil heavy gearoil in mid drive and castrol 20/50 in gearbox.. i have 1100miles on the mid drive and final drive oil now

    i also notice a harmonic like an out of balance shaft sound when cruising slow speed

    i serviced the final using moly lube and amsoil heavy gear...it all recieved a thorough cleaning

    also seems to be a bit noticeable gear play perhaps the damper is bad?

    this is an 81 xs 1100 special with 19000miles

    what other oils are recommended? any one use lucas products in mid and final drive?
    81 SH gifted to SON

  • #2
    Just curious, how did you clean the final drive? You can move the rubber boot back and check your u-joint... Sounds like you are using a good oil but the noise would concern me. Most poeple use conventional 80/90 hypoid oil or anything between it and a full synthetic 80W/120 oil...

    BTW just to clearify, the transmission on these share the engine oil (20/50). The middle drive and final drive take the same kind of gear oil... Hope you didnt put 20/50 in your middle drive... contrary to that, hope you know you have a middle drive that needs to be drained and replaced.
    Last edited by WMarshy; 07-23-2014, 02:11 PM.
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
      Just curious, how did you clean the final drive? You can move the rubber boot back and check your u-joint... Sounds like you are using a good oil but the noise would concern me. Most poeple use conventional 80/90 hypoid oil or anything between it and a full synthetic 80W/120 oil...
      Correction(no offense W Marshy), full synthetic equivelent to conventional hypoid IS 75-140w syn., Royal Purple, etc. That equivelance is referance to 'cling' factor and 'pound out' resistance......two most important factors with high load presures.
      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

      Comment


      • #4
        I use full synthetic 75/140 in the middle and final drives. It quiets them a bit and they run a lot cooler.

        The straight cut gears in these transmissions are noisy by nature, especially in the lower gears.
        Greg

        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

        ― Albert Einstein

        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

        The list changes.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by BA80 View Post
          I use full synthetic 75/140 in the middle and final drives. It quiets them a bit and they run a lot cooler.

          The straight cut gears in these transmissions are noisy by nature, especially in the lower gears.
          +1......changed both before headin' to rally as I hadn't done it for a few yrs.(obviously don't ride it much/enough), plus with almost nil humidity majority of time, any moisture content would be minimal. Had 75-140syn. in both, but had just enough RoyalPurple left to do one or the other. The syn. went in the middle drive, and had a bottle of Lucas Heavy Duty Hypoid 80w-90 that went in the final drive.
          A slight whine returned, I'm sure from the final drive at constant highway speeds like it used to sound from new. That whine IS from friction, which obviously creates the rise in assemblies temperature. IMO, not enough additional wear that it would'nt outlive rest of bike anyways.
          The capacity of both is small enough, the additional cost of syn. is minimal, and get the added benifit of reduced wear......just because.
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

          Comment


          • #6
            i discovered that my u joint is on its way out...its not toast yet but not great either..

            can someone lead me to a link for a new one?..i have an 81 special..thanks...
            81 SH gifted to SON

            Comment


            • #7
              No longer sold by Yamaha

              But here is a new one on Ebay. A little pricey... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301229744186?lpid=82
              2 - 80 LGs bought one new
              81 LH
              02 FXSTB Nighttrain
              22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
              Jim

              Comment


              • #8
                Probably get a couple of good ones from parts guy Andreas.

                These guys used to carry new ones for XS11, you could call them...

                http://theujointstore.com/
                2H7 (79)
                3H3

                "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by motoman View Post
                  Correction(no offense W Marshy), full synthetic equivelent to conventional hypoid IS 75-140w syn., Royal Purple, etc. That equivelance is referance to 'cling' factor and 'pound out' resistance......two most important factors with high load presures.
                  No offense taken, wasn't quite sure what the synthetic equivalent was because I don't use it. IIRC the semi-synthetic (blend) is a 75-120...maybe, could be wrong again just going on memory.

                  Either way, I've noticed a dramatic improvement with just going with the blend.
                  '79 XS11 F
                  Stock except K&N

                  '79 XS11 SF
                  Stock, no title.

                  '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                  GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                  "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Was also just pointing out that 80w or similar in synthetic is NOT equivelant to the same vecosity in synthetic! If your gonna replace conv. hypoid gear oil with synthetic, it NEEDs to be the 70-75/140w. to be equivalent in 'cling' AND 'pound out' capability.

                    Would imagine if you just 'rat' around locally on bike, would'nt matter much.
                    LD riding.........a whole different scenario, and have seen the EVENTUAL end result if not 'stepped' up to the 75-140w, if using synthetic.
                    Last edited by motoman; 07-27-2014, 02:11 PM.
                    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      A Precision 392 U joint is the part you need to replace the joint.
                      Ray Matteis
                      KE6NHG
                      XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                      XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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