Something snapped! A diagnosis.

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  • James England
    replied
    You're missing the spacer.....
    Last edited by James England; 07-29-2014, 06:08 PM.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    I would add that I don't believe it's the brake calipers malfunctioning. I looked at several threads pertaining to the calipers, "spooge hole," and I do not think that is the problem.

    I think the problem is how I reassembled it, or perhaps a missing spacer/washer.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    It just keeps comin'

    Pack the drive shaft and wheel hub/final drive full of moly grease.

    Put everything back together, and noticed that the rear brake caliper is grinding on the rotor.

    Wondering whether I'm missing a spacer? The previous wheel was 17", and this one is 16", but I don't think that would cause the problem. The manual stated to take particular care about this washer (below), and I made sure I didn't lose it, but maybe I have it in the wrong place?

    Brake wasn't grinding before, unsure why it would now. Thoughts?





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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Originally posted by cajun31
    be aftermarket.... I was looking at some earlier xs11 pictures and they may indeed be stock... I would still pay attention to alignment. Hopefully you will find something as you clean everything up. I would just not feel comfortable without digging and finding the real reason for the issue. You don't just want to throw parts on and then end up with the same problem in short order.
    I was under the impression that they are stock. The bike is actually a Special; the previous owner modified the bike to accept a Standard style tank.

    I'll be watching it carefully. Thank you.

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  • cajun31
    replied
    shocks may not

    be aftermarket.... I was looking at some earlier xs11 pictures and they may indeed be stock... I would still pay attention to alignment. Hopefully you will find something as you clean everything up. I would just not feel comfortable without digging and finding the real reason for the issue. You don't just want to throw parts on and then end up with the same problem in short order.

    Leave a comment:


  • cajun31
    replied
    Hey Mes

    Just coat everything good with the grease.

    I was looking at the original still picture of the bike that you posted and I see that you are running aftermarket shocks on the back. Never have seen the other side.... no pictures of that side of bike... but am assuming the sister of the shock on the left.

    The only reason I am pointing this out is because I am puzzled as to what wore the wheel hub down so bad. Lack of grease is absolutely a contributing factor, however if it was a good snug fit it would have taken something else to cause that kind of damage. Could be an alignment issue... make sure you look at that very closely with the replacement parts.

    It could have also been something with the final drive itself or possibly bearing issues in the wheel. While you have it apart do a very thorough inspection of everything and be very liberal with the grease... anything that seeps out on reassembly can easily be wiped clean. I grease mine, wipe clean, ride a couple of miles.... low speed, wipe again and keep an eye on it for a few rides.

    Looks like you are on your way to recovery..... good luck.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Originally posted by ViperRon
    Double and triple clean everything those wheel bearings will not hold up long if any of the filings off the hub gets to them and the same issue with the final drive assembly.
    Excellent, will do. Trying to find local source for that molybdenum grease currently. How much grease should I be packing onto this thing before I put it back together?

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  • ViperRon
    replied
    Double and triple clean everything those wheel bearings will not hold up long if any of the filings off the hub gets to them and the same issue with the final drive assembly.

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  • BA80
    replied
    Yeah, for a long time I ran the Castrol 4T motorcycle 20/50. $6 a quart.

    The SuperTech works just as well for $13 for 5 quarts.

    Leave a comment:


  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by BA80
    You can use pretty much any 20/50 as long as the API service label is blank on the bottom like this....



    I use Walmart house brand. It's inexpensive.......




    In the middle and final drives what seems to work best for keeping them cool and quiet is full synthetic 75/140.
    +1 on the motor oil choice. These ole' loose clearance air cooled motors don't need use of expensive 'snake oil' motor oil. See no difference in engine noise using SuperTech as opposed to the 20-50Vavoline automotive oil I used to use. +1 0n the use of syn. 75-140w in middle and final drives.

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  • BA80
    replied
    You can use pretty much any 20/50 as long as the API service label is blank on the bottom like this....



    I use Walmart house brand. It's inexpensive.......




    In the middle and final drives what seems to work best for keeping them cool and quiet is full synthetic 75/140.

    Leave a comment:


  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Originally posted by James England
    Excellent progress! Now you're getting somewhere, eh? And I bet you feel justifiably pleased with yourself.

    You've found the problem, I'd say! Your wheel hub needs to be replaced and,as has been said, I'd look at the final drive splines carefully. Clean them up with a solvent and paintbrush and the post pix here, OK? They may actually be OK. Final drives are cheap and you'll get one no problem, but don't buy one if you don't need to. Same goes for the wheel hub.....readily available

    That wheel is quite a way from the clutch! or the middle gearbox!
    I am pleased. Tomorrow I'm going to clean up the drive and post pictures for your opinion. I actually have another wheel/hub from the previous owner in my garage. I'll need to find that molybdenum grease, some 20/50 oil, and whatever type of oil I'll need for the middle and final drives at a store tomorrow. Hoping these items can be found at run of the mill Auto-Zone type store.

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  • mack
    replied
    video

    Well the reason I was able to post a video of the components so fast is because the PO of the E I'm restoring was also an A..hole, and he was the one who wore it's drive train down. I had purchased all the pieces up to the middle driven gear from Andreas in the spring and had it sitting in the packing box in my porch.(no room in the shop anymore!) I figured if he wore down the shaft and final drive like that, that the middle drive would be suffering as well. Pisses me off that my taking this bike off his hands really was a rescue in the true sense of the word. It will have a good home here with my other resto's!I'll start a build thread soon, but my back is giving me problems right now from working on something else for ch 11. Going to rest it for a bit and homefully get some serious rides in before the snow falls. Crappy weather now so I can rest a bit.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Thanks for your help, guys. As soon as I get the parts from Andreashweiss and BA80, I'll put them on. I may need to replace the drive shaft, too, as the edges on mine resemble more the "spikey" bad drive shaft splines in mack's picture.

    Busy these past couple days with family obligations, haven't had much time for tinkering.

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  • James England
    replied
    Originally posted by mack
    Take James up on his offer, buy the left side bearing while you can, He is the only source on the planet.
    DonebySunday just did exactly that, and bought the last two bearings I had. One for immediate use on a new hub, no doubt, and one for the spares drawer. I'll post in the bearing thread if I get hold of some more....

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