Something snapped! A diagnosis.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied


    I circled in red the area I figured the sound was coming from when I turned the wheel. My best approximation.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Originally posted by James England
    Can you tell where the grinding sound is coming from??
    It's coming from the middle of the bike. There is some play in the rear wheel when in gear -- when pushing the wheel forward or backward it will hit resistance accompanied by a clunk in the middle of the bike, almost like it's going over a hump in the gear or something. Higher gears decrease the play when rotating the tire (i.e. less space in between humps/resistance).

    I pulled the rubber boot off the drive shaft, and when in neutral it turns normally. When in gear however, it does not turn completely. It moves, but will not make a full revolution.

    I lack the conceptual vocabulary to adequately describe this, thank you for bearing with me.

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  • BA80
    replied
    Originally posted by James England
    Can you tell where the grinding sound is coming from??
    Also, did you try it and see if it makes the noise in 3, 4, and 5?

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  • James England
    replied
    Originally posted by mesmeridicus
    Rear tire rotates like normal, without grinding, in neutral. Clunking/grinding sound when rotated in first gear
    Can you tell where the grinding sound is coming from??

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Originally posted by BA80
    You can still put it in gear with the clutch cover off, you just can't release the clutch.
    Yeah I put it in gear, don't know what I was thinking.

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  • BA80
    replied
    You can still put it in gear with the clutch cover off, you just can't release the clutch.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Clutch cover is off, I'm staring at the innards.

    Nothing seems broken or problematic. No metal chips, shavings, et cetera. Everything rotates as far as I can tell. I made the mistake of putting the bike in neutral prior to removing the clutch cover, however, so it's not in gear.

    Next step?

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Originally posted by mack
    This will be a process of testing and elimination. Starting with the easy to get at stuff first. If the drive train is intact up to and including the middle drive then you need to have a look inside the clutch cover. This can be done by placing the bike on the side stand, that way you don't have to drain the oil, but at this point I would probably leave it on the center stand and drain the oil anyway just so I could rotate the rear tire while in gear to help find the source of the grinding. If it's coming from the bottom end then it's tranny trouble and the fix will be a bit more complex and time consuming. But don't panic yet, we aren't at that bridge yet. I'm stll betting on the U joint.
    Rear tire rotates like normal, without grinding, in neutral. Clunking/grinding sound when rotated in first gear.

    Following your advice, I'll be removing the clutch cover to have a look.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Originally posted by WMarshy
    What gear were you in when this happened?

    What was your throttle position, were you accelerating hard or moderately hard or crusing steady state?

    Might have been second gear dogs jumping if you were accelerating moderately hard... More info would help make a conclusion... might be an ignition issue..?
    Accelerating moderately hard in first gear into second.

    Put bike on centerstand, rear wheel will move in first gear without much resistance (there is some), and I hear a clunking sound when I turn it in gear.

    Headed back out to garage to open her up.

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  • WMarshy
    replied
    Originally posted by mesmeridicus
    Thank you gentlemen for all your help.

    Actually, I've been at work all day. The bike is at my parent's house, currently, and I'll be headed over tomorrow to try out your suggestions.

    Some background information:

    I've had the bike since August of 2013. It's a 1979 Special. Upon purchase, the bike had about 9,000 miles on it and was in great condition. As of yesterday's disaster, it had about 14-15,000 miles total. I've replaced the oil several times, but I have not replaced the driveshaft oil nor have I had it serviced.

    As far as I could tell, the bike hadn't shown any symptoms of an impending failure or problem. The oil pressure/brake check light would come on sporadically, and switch off whenever I activated either front or rear brake. It definitely has enough oil (20w-50, I believe), so I'm inclined to believe that the wiring connection is faulty and triggering the light.

    The engine runs like normal when I start the bike. The burning smell was not caused by the rear brake locking -- I pushed the bike back to my parent's house in neutral and did not experience any unusual resistance.

    I would like to clarify that something may not have "snapped," as I could not hear over the music. I just felt a jolt which felt like something snapping, and proceeded to coast to the side of the road in neutral.

    Once I check it out tomorrow I'll post and let you guys know what I've found.

    And, again, I'd like to thank you all for your help. The knowledgeable advice and friendly interest in my predicament is impressive and, I think, rarely found on such forums. I started riding three years ago at 21 and I am immensely grateful for all the help I've found here since.

    I'll update tomorrow.
    What gear were you in when this happened?

    What was your throttle position, were you accelerating hard or moderately hard or crusing steady state?

    Might have been second gear dogs jumping if you were accelerating moderately hard... More info would help make a conclusion... might be an ignition issue..?

    Leave a comment:


  • James England
    replied
    Don't panic

    As LoHo has said, there's a lot of knowledge here on the forum. Also, everyone wants to help everyone else and it's usually done without any ego-flexing or unpleasantness.

    So, why not report back once you've done your initial investigation of the bike? Keep asking questions and you'll always get a response and the problem you have experienced will soon be identified.

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  • LoHo
    replied
    Mes, this is the place for help...many of these guys know more than the manual tells us. If you take it to a shop, the guys there will look at you like you just rode a horse in and they'll have to scan their online manual muttering that you should just buy a modern bike. Plus, the listers have broken these bikes in a vast variety of ways and have fixed anything you can break. Don't be afraid to get into it and try things out. It will be your bike even more than it is now after you get her going again.

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  • mesmeridicus
    replied
    Thank you gentlemen for all your help.

    Actually, I've been at work all day. The bike is at my parent's house, currently, and I'll be headed over tomorrow to try out your suggestions.

    Some background information:

    I've had the bike since August of 2013. It's a 1979 Special. Upon purchase, the bike had about 9,000 miles on it and was in great condition. As of yesterday's disaster, it had about 14-15,000 miles total. I've replaced the oil several times, but I have not replaced the driveshaft oil nor have I had it serviced.

    As far as I could tell, the bike hadn't shown any symptoms of an impending failure or problem. The oil pressure/brake check light would come on sporadically, and switch off whenever I activated either front or rear brake. It definitely has enough oil (20w-50, I believe), so I'm inclined to believe that the wiring connection is faulty and triggering the light.

    The engine runs like normal when I start the bike. The burning smell was not caused by the rear brake locking -- I pushed the bike back to my parent's house in neutral and did not experience any unusual resistance.

    I would like to clarify that something may not have "snapped," as I could not hear over the music. I just felt a jolt which felt like something snapping, and proceeded to coast to the side of the road in neutral.

    Once I check it out tomorrow I'll post and let you guys know what I've found.

    And, again, I'd like to thank you all for your help. The knowledgeable advice and friendly interest in my predicament is impressive and, I think, rarely found on such forums. I started riding three years ago at 21 and I am immensely grateful for all the help I've found here since.

    I'll update tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • James England
    replied
    Yes, it will be intriguing to know the autopsy report. If it is, as you say, the shaft and final drive, it's an easy enough repair with cheap parts readily available, so let's hope it's that rather than the gearbox dogs......

    Leave a comment:


  • TopCatGr58
    replied
    Well,

    This was way early in the morning when he posted, and hasn't posted a followup, so hopefully he's busy performing diagnostics. He was actually riding it in 1st when the snap happened, the pulled over to the curb, so the rear wheel didn't LOCK UP, I would assume he was able to pull in the clutch and coast to the curb...so the middle drive wasn't totally locked up.

    However, a burning smell....he didn't say RUBBER, just a burning smell, could be the rear brake locking/dragging?? The snap could have been a SKIP of the 1st gear dogs/slots? It could also have been a skipping of the final driveshaft splines with the final drive? We don't know how long he's had the bike, if he's ever serviced/lubed the final drive/splines junction??

    Then trying to drive it, just stutters in 1st or 2nd, lots of grinding noise, but bike wouldn't move much at all. Jerry experienced a driveshaft failure a while back...splines broken/worn down.

    My bet is the driveshaft splines/final drive junction. Will be curious to hear what he finds as the real culprit!?

    T.C.

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