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Here's a pinout guide if you need it. It's faint, but if you enlarge it, it's readable.
Thanks Randy, this needs to be put in the hints section, so that questions as to the wiring, and checking there of, could be referenced when the need arises.
Maybe TC could do that, huh?
I've posted this a few times over the years, but it hasn't gotten permanently stored yet ? Then again, I changed ISP's a lot over the past few years, so the image keeps on disappearing
Maybe I'll have to e-mail the original to someone.
BTW, it's only for the E, F and G models (read the fine print)
In the end I believe the final change that made the difference was setting governor? to .7mm - the gaps were much larger.
I bought a unit offline at one point and apparently they'd been moved from default factory setting. It was one thing I tried out of many over time to troubleshoot original issue which was a dead spot through one mid-RPM range on the highway.
Thats a whole nother story...
Back to this - I found 720 Ohms per recommended test by CaptonZap. My neighbor came up and ran a screwdriver between the magnets to verify that along with continuity when metal passed by the magnets the TCI got word. He mentioned the gap which I'd read before but never made it that far to check it.
In the end I ended up cleaning all electrical connections on the bike (and coating with dielectric grease). I bypassed headlight relay, the reserve lighting unit and removed the accessory block to try to minimize what could go wrong. And so I'm better off for the struggle but man I sure had to stretch for this. I did find one wire to one of the pickup coils hanging on by a thread and a couple loose connectors which I replaced.
Thanks for all the feedback and help. Without this site I would have had to let go of my first and favorite bike or at least had an on again off again project on my hand for many more years (since I can't let go of my first and favorite bike!).
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