50 Amp Main Circuit Breaker Mod

[3Phase]

The larger 50 Amp Littelfuse circuit breaker that I bought will work fine with the upgraded wiring I've done for my '80G.

Anyone else that wants to replace the 30 Amp Main fuse with a circuit breaker should find a 30 Amp Cooper-Bussmann CB185-30. Like the Littelfuse circuit breaker, the CB185 is a Type III, high amp switchable, waterproof, flush-mount, manual reset circuit breaker with SEMS nuts.


Cooper Bussmann CB185 Type III waterproof circuit breakers


One of the old Main 30 Amp fuse clamps broke do I pulled the wires out of the rubber fuse holder. I tried to find a waterproof 40 Amp Type III (manual reset) circuit breaker but no one had them locally so I bought a 50 Amp breaker.



On to the pictures:-

Replace the original XS1100G 30 Amp Main fuse with a waterproof 50 Amp Type III circuit breaker.


Clockwise left to right:

The original rubber 30 Amp Main fuse holder with the fuse and the 14 gauge wires removed.

Black nylon fairing windshield mount screw with nut.

Littelfuse Hi-Amp Type III Circuit Breaker
Part Number: 185050
Amperage: 50 Amp

From Littelfuse: These high amp circuit breakers are typically used in auxiliary and accessory circuits for trucks, buses, RVs and marine applications. All high amp circuit breakers comply with the SAE J1117 standard for ignition protection and have applications in battery charger systems and DC audio systems.





The old rubber cap from the Main fuse holder is fastened to the back of the new circuit breaker with the black nylon windshield screw and nut.




The rubber fuse base from the old Main fuse holder is fastened to its rubber cap on the back of the circuit breaker.





The rubber Main fuse holder is pressed onto its mounting tab on the left-hand side of the frame along with the new circuit breaker.

The red manual Reset lever is in the Open position so the circuit breaker is Off.

The old rubber fuse holder keeps the new circuit breaker in place and isolates it from shock and vibration.





The red manual Reset lever is in the Closed position so the circuit breaker is On.

The new 50 Amp circuit breaker is installed, connected, and it works!

I replaced the original 1980 XS1100G 14 gauge Red wire for the Main power battery circuit with red 10 gauge wire all the way from the battery positive terminal up to the the Ignition switch.

It's not shown here but I also replaced the original 14 gauge Brown wire from the Ignition Switch to the Fuse Box with 12 gauge wire.





The red manual Trip/Shutoff button on the circuit breaker is covered with a small piece of vacuum line to protect the button while preventing it from accidentally bumping into anything and shutting off the circuit breaker.





The red manual Trip/Shutoff button on the new circuit breaker needs protection so it does not get damaged or unintentionally shut off the circuit breaker.





The new circuit breaker with plastic wire guides and a rubber sleeve to protect the red manual Trip/Shutoff button.





The new circuit breaker is hidden behind the left-hand side cover.





The upper/rear view of the new circuit breaker as seen from inside the frame and showing the 10 gauge Main battery wire routing.

The upper Red wire with the flame-retardant anti-wear sleeve is the 10 gauge wire from the battery positive terminal to the circuit breaker.

The lower Red 10 gauge wire goes from the circuit breaker into the primary wiring harness and forward to the voltage Regulator/Rectifier, then continues forward all the way up to the Ignition Switch.




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[motoman]

Nice!...........and the added soap to keep it all cleaned up.

[3Phase]

Well, you can't have a soap opera without soap!


Seriously though, it's part of the emergency stash that goes along with the space blanket and a few other items. It helps get rid of Battery Odor under the ol' side covers too.

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[motoman]

Well, you can't have a soap opera without soap!


Seriously though, it's part of the emergency stash that goes along with the space blanket and a few other items. It helps get rid of Battery Odor under the ol' side covers too.

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.......while smellin' Lifebuoy fresh @80mph!

[3Phase]

XJ Alternator Mod is no longer WIP

The XJ1100J's alternator is installed on my XS1100G.

All of the modifications to the wiring harness are finished and the XJ alternator mod is a success.




That was a lot of work, hopefully it was worth the anxiety when I flipped on the circuit breaker and fired up the bike!

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[latexeses]

I didn't know there was that much straight metal on the XJ.

[3Phase]

I didn't know there was that much straight metal on the XJ.

Yes, even the paint was bent on that poor wrecked XJ11. Thankfully, Aaron, the P.O., walked away from the accident with relatively minor injuries.

I have some detail work to finish up today, then I get to go for a test ride to see how well the new electrical mods and spark plug wires hold up. I should probably synchronize the carbs again while I have the fairing and the tank off. It's sitting there looking at me now all, "Synch me! Synch me now! Tool!"

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[latexeses]

Don't irritate her. I've heard they can be vengeful.

[3Phase]

Don't irritate her. I've heard they can be vengeful.

Yeeee! Ha! Ha! Ha-a-a-a! Everything works!

I'm sure I irritated Columbo but I got in the first shot when I got home from the ride and washed everything with engine cleaner and TsP! How can you get so dirty when you wash a motorcycle?

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[jayel]

I'd be a bit concerned about replacing a 30 Amp with a 50 Amp, what's going to burn before that 50 trips? kind of like sticking a penny behind a old screw-in fuse

[MPittma100]

Circuit Breakers

I've used the automatic reset breakers in many applications. They are available in many amperages and are inexpensive. Can be used in place of a fuse. You can put several together on a common buss bar.

Can be used as a tool by substituting one for the fuse in a shorted circuit.



MP

[CaptonZap]

Here's a little something to cause some consternation amongst the troops.

It's called the fusing current.

http://www.litz-wire.com/New%20PDFs/Fusing_Currents_Melting_Temperature_Copper_Aluminu m_Magnet_Wire_R2.011609.pdf
So Scott may be safe with his original gauge wire and a 50 amp breaker.
Might smell like hot plastic for a while, but at 70 mph, it would be hard to smell, unless you run a fairing.
CZ

[3Phase]

Grab your towel

and don't panic!

As I wrote in the first paragraph of the first post:

The larger 50 Amp Littelfuse circuit breaker that I bought will work fine with the upgraded wiring I've done for my '80G.

Anyone else that wants to replace the 30 Amp Main fuse with a circuit breaker should find a 30 Amp Cooper-Bussmann CB185-30. Like the Littelfuse circuit breaker, the CB185 is a Type III, high amp switchable, waterproof, flush-mount, manual reset circuit breaker with SEMS nuts.

The original XS1100G wiring is a light Japanese 14 gauge wire fused for 30 Amps. It runs from the Battery up to the Ignition switch, then from the switched power side of the switch it goes down to the Fuse Box. That is roughly six or seven feet of 14 gauge wire.

The upgraded wiring I added to my XS11 is 10 gauge all the way from the Battery to the Ignition switch, then 12 gauge to the Fuse Box. That's a little over three feet each of #10 and #12. The only non-fused components on that circuit are the Always-Hot Regulator/Rectifier output spliced to the 10 gauge Battery Main feed on the Load side of the circuit breaker and the 12 gauge Brown switched power wire to the Fuse Box.

WARNING! The Brown switched power wire on any XS1100 serves non-fused triple-duty:

Fuse Box positive supply
Voltage Sense for the Voltage Regulator
Alternator Field Coil positive supply

I don't want a Type I automatic-reset breaker for the Main power circuit and I really don't want a Type II tripped-until-voltage-removed breaker.

The Type I automatic reset breaker would work but I want the bike to shut off if the breaker trips. A Type II breaker would be a complete pain in the posterior to reset if it ever tripped.

The Type III circuit breaker has a manual switch so I can work on the bike without disconnecting the battery or pulling fuses to temporarily 'safe' a circuit. It's nice: push one button and the the entire electrical system -- including the Aux Power 10A outlet -- is OFF except for the Line side wiring from the Battery and the Starter Solenoid terminal.


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[motoman]

and don't panic!

As I wrote in the first paragraph of the first post:




The original XS1100G wiring is a light Japanese 14 gauge wire fused for 30 Amps. It runs from the Battery up to the Ignition switch, then from the switched power side of the switch it goes down to the Fuse Box. That is roughly six or seven feet of 14 gauge wire.

The upgraded wiring I added to my XS11 is 10 gauge all the way from the Battery to the Ignition switch, then 12 gauge to the Fuse Box. That's a little over three feet each of #10 and #12. The only non-fused components on that circuit are the Always-Hot Regulator/Rectifier output spliced to the 10 gauge Battery Main feed on the Load side of the circuit breaker and the 12 gauge Brown switched power wire to the Fuse Box.

WARNING! The Brown switched power wire on any XS1100 serves non-fused triple-duty:

Fuse Box positive supply
Voltage Sense for the Voltage Regulator
Alternator Field Coil positive supply

I don't want a Type I automatic-reset breaker for the Main power circuit and I really don't want a Type II tripped-until-voltage-removed breaker.

The Type I automatic reset breaker would work but I want the bike to shut off if the breaker trips. A Type II breaker would be a complete pain in the posterior to reset if it ever tripped.

The Type III circuit breaker has a manual switch so I can work on the bike without disconnecting the battery or pulling fuses to temporarily 'safe' a circuit. It's nice: push one button and the the entire electrical system -- including the Aux Power 10A outlet -- is OFF except for the Line side wiring from the Battery and the Starter Solenoid terminal.


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Nice! That's a bout as handy as handles on a basket.

As for Jayel's comment, If that scoot were to ever have a 50amp draw, I would imagine even a fire extinguisher would leave you 'a day late and a dollar short'.

[3Phase]

Nice! That's a bout as handy as handles on a basket.

As for Jayel's comment, If that scoot were to ever have a 50amp draw, I would imagine even a fire extinguisher would leave you 'a day late and a dollar short'.

Trust me, it's pretty much the same for the stock wiring and a 30A draw, that's pretty much why I had to upgrade the wires in the first place.


"And I went down to the demonstration, to get my fair share of abuse.
Singing, "We're gonna vent our frustration, if we don't we're gonna blow a 50-amp fuse!"

You can't always get what you want!
You can't always get what you want!
You can't always get what you want!

But if you try sometimes well you just might find, you get what you need!"

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