Valves nice and bent, just the way I like them... :mad:

[Eveready1100]

Hi DownShift, just wondering if you've also checked your exhaust valves for damage as in your 2nd and 3rd photos, there are obvious marks on the valve heads from piston crown contact.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Hi DownShift, just wondering if you've also checked your exhaust valves for damage as in your 2nd and 3rd photos, there are obvious marks on the valve heads from piston crown contact.

I went just bought a whole new head that is in working order.

Question about the head though, there is a lot of carbon build up in the #1 exhaust port. Looks like a bbq grill in there. Should that be cleaned out and if so, how?

Is there any other areas that should be cleaned or touched up prior to installing the new head?

[IanDMacDonald]

Attach a wire brush to your grinder or drill, use some brake cleaner and have a go at it. Carbon should come off fairly easy. Dry it off, check your valve lash, swap the pucks, and drop that head on.

[IanDMacDonald]

Also remember not to have the cylinder head on a flat bench turning the cams.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Attach a wire brush to your grinder or drill, use some brake cleaner and have a go at it. Carbon should come off fairly easy. Dry it off, check your valve lash, swap the pucks, and drop that head on.

Even in the ports where the exhaust bolts to the head? I looked in through that opening and saw the valve stem and a lot of carbon.

[Radioguylogs]

I went just bought a whole new head that is in working order.

Question about the head though, there is a lot of carbon build up in the #1 exhaust port. Looks like a bbq grill in there. Should that be cleaned out and if so, how?

Is there any other areas that should be cleaned or touched up prior to installing the new head?

If it were me, I'd think about new valve seals for ~$2.00/each - cheap compared to other expenses, like head gasket.

So, while the valves are out of the head, a light lapping is icing on the cake.

Of course you need the valve spring compressor tool to do this.

[mikubuilder]

I'm with the Radioguy, change those seals

[D0wn5h1ft]

If it were me, I'd think about new valve seals for ~$2.00/each - cheap compared to other expenses, like head gasket.

So, while the valves are out of the head, a light lapping is icing on the cake.

Of course you need the valve spring compressor tool to do this.

My plan was to leave the valves and everything in the head because I'm not confident enough in my abilities to not jack it up. I think the engine gasket kit that is coming in today includes valve stem seals if that's what you're talking about.

This is the kit I got:

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/XS1100-At...ine-Gasket-Set

[IanDMacDonald]

I advised Gabe to buy a complete head and drop it on to save machine shop expenses, etc., if he were to take it in. He does not have the valve spring tool, etc., to remove valves, etc. It was cheaper than buying valves, etc.

When I did mine, I did put new oil seals, etc., in. I used my head because of the flow bench port & polish done to it. Otherwise, I woulda bought a head off Greg and been done with it. If you did take it into the shop, they would have cleaned the valves, head, exhaust ports, etc. However, that woulda come with a price.

To do it all over again, I would have saved machine shop costs and borrowed a valve tool and done everything on my own.

[motoman]

Attach a wire brush to your grinder or drill, use some brake cleaner and have a go at it. Carbon should come off fairly easy. Dry it off, check your valve lash, swap the pucks, and drop that head on.

Would not use any type of wire wheel to remove carbon off aluminum.
I would instead, soda blast them. If you have a compressor, worth spendin' the fifty bucks at an automotive paint store for the gun. The commercial type soda used if a bit courser than the Arm&Hammer type at the grocery store, but it WILL work, just gotta blast a bit longer.

Then you also have a quick spark plug cleaner if making any jetting changes.

The local powder-coating outfit here sells me bout #30 for $5 I put in a closed 3gal. looking metal tin with a lid so it don't absorb moisture. Also handy for other uses, blowing rust off, paint, whatever.

[Radioguylogs]

I think the engine gasket kit that is coming in today includes valve stem seals if that's what you're talking about.

This is the kit I got:

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/XS1100-At...ine-Gasket-Set

Yep the valve stem seals are in that kit.

You can borrow my valve spring compressor tool if you wish. It's the $35 model from Pants-N-More.

If you're intimidated, I'd understand. It is more parts to get apart and back together. It's not hard or risky, though.

[Eveready1100]

Also remember not to have the cylinder head on a flat bench turning the cams.

Actually, if the cams are fitted to the head, chances are that at least one valve is open, so you don't have to actually turn the cams to bend a valve. Just sitting it flat on a bench with a valve open can bend it. They're that soft!

Also remember that when turning the cams to check valve clearances, only have one cam fitted at a time to avoid valves clashing.

[mharrington]

Is there any way after removing the oil pan/sump to reach up with a plastic bar and secure/wedge the chain into the crank sprocket to secure and prevent it from lowering down and thus jumping a toothe when all is attempted to reassemble?