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Fuel T Repair

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  • #16
    Yep they're the brass type.

    I tried a bit of heat to see if the fuel would vent off, to show me where they're leaking and to evaporate the fuel out, this worked Ok whilst there was fuel in the float as it wicked the heat away, but as soon as the float was getting dry inside the heat was too much and the solder let go, I'm going to try re-soldering the least damaged float, I have one spare float.

    They're an old set of carbs that I was building up as a spare set so no urgency getting them finished, I've been given a wrecked set of XS750 carbs, they have similar floats but are wider, a cut and shut job on them may be easier.

    I know that may make them float lower/higher, but as long as I set the fuel levels as you showed, rather than rely on float heights it should work.

    I'll look into the newer type floats too, thanks for the info.
    Tom
    1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
    1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
    1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
    1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

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    • #17
      I need to solder a brass float someday too. I was told that if you immerse the float in water, all but the part to be soldered, that will keep the good solder from melting while doing the repair. i don't know if this actually works or not. Good luck with your repair.
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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      • #18
        Put a pair hemostats or some other useful clamping device on the float hanger right next to the float as a heat sink before you put the float back together. The float'll fall right off the hanger, probably just as you finish sealing the seam, and it's not easy to put it back on the hanger and align it correctly without messing up the solder in the float seam or adding too much solder.

        Let the float cool, then quickly solder the float vent hole closed. Check for leaks and get ready to do it all over again.

        Weigh the float assembly to make sure it's the same as the other three floats. If it's too heavy it'll still float but the float height setting will be off and the float height should be set by checking the fuel level in the float bowl.

        .
        -- Scott
        _____

        2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
        1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
        1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
        1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
        1979 XS1100F: parts
        2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

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        • #19
          Thanks for the advice lads, I'll give it a go some time, just busy as hell at the mo. Daughter bought a new house that needs renovating, not quite sure how thats my job but it seems to be

          And been drag racing again, scored a personal best with a 7.2 seconds in qualifying but lost to a frenchman in eliminations. Those new Mickey Thompson 10.5" tyres are fantastic. I now have a heap of work to do setting up the clutch shimming and valve timing. So no time for my carbs.
          Tom
          1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
          1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
          1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
          1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

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