Looking to buy 1978

[BA80]

Actually Ian, the slides have absolutely nothing to do with start up. They only come into play as the throttle is opened and the vacuum changes.

[IanDMacDonald]

Touche' Greg, I stand corrected. Old guy, calls himself Dr. Honda told me that long ago.

[TexinMaine]

Actually Ian, the slides have absolutely nothing to do with start up. They only come into play as the throttle is opened and the vacuum changes.

So those being stuck wouldn't have had any thing to do with it not starting?

[IanDMacDonald]

Those being stuck had everything to do do with it possibly not starting. Don't look too far into what Greg said. Your carbs were probably all gummed-up, and need a thorough cleaning

[BA80]

So those being stuck wouldn't have had any thing to do with it not starting?

Under normal operation they don't, but, like ian said if they are stuck it'll mean the rest of the carb is going to be gummed up.

Fuel for startup is supplied through the pilot and/or enricher circuits. The slides operate the main circuit.

[CaptonZap]

So I got the carbs off today, What a pain, would be so much easier if the top bracket that holds the airbox could be removed.

Well, a portion of it can be removable.
A few whiles ago I posted a fix for that strap, and since it is easier to describe it again, than to find it, here is the fix.
The strap has four screws holding it to the top of the air box. The outer two screws go all the way through the air box, holding it together. The inner two screws go into two plates , inside the box, that have threaded nuts attached to them. The outer two screws hold those plates in position
You can take the strap clear off and fix it, or you can do it carefully without taking everything apart.
Loosen the two central screws. Nothing will fall apart. Take a hack saw and cut the strap between the central and outer screw positions. If you are careful, you will not saw into the plastic. Make the cut at a 90 deg angle to the strap. When it goes back together, you will see why
After the cuts are made, make sure that the two outer screws are tight. That is important! Take the two central screws out, remove the central portion of the strap, marvel at the fact that with it removable, you can easily move the air box back a looong way, thus facilitating the removal of the carbs.
When you put everything back together, put the cut away portion of the strap back, install the two screws, and you are good to go. Once it is back together, you have only to remove the two inner screws, leaving the center portion of the strap in place, slide the air box back, and remove the carbs.
Re-assembly is in the reverse order.


CZ

[motoman]

Well, a portion of it can be removable.
A few whiles ago I posted a fix for that strap, and since it is easier to describe it again, than to find it, here is the fix.
The strap has four screws holding it to the top of the air box. The outer two screws go all the way through the air box, holding it together. The inner two screws go into two plates , inside the box, that have threaded nuts attached to them. The outer two screws hold those plates in position
You can take the strap clear off and fix it, or you can do it carefully without taking everything apart.
Loosen the two central screws. Nothing will fall apart. Take a hack saw and cut the strap between the central and outer screw positions. If you are careful, you will not saw into the plastic. Make the cut at a 90 deg angle to the strap. When it goes back together, you will see why
After the cuts are made, make sure that the two outer screws are tight. That is important! Take the two central screws out, remove the central portion of the strap, marvel at the fact that with it removable, you can easily move the air box back a looong way, thus facilitating the removal of the carbs.
When you put everything back together, put the cut away portion of the strap back, install the two screws, and you are good to go. Once it is back together, you have only to remove the two inner screws, leaving the center portion of the strap in place, slide the air box back, and remove the carbs.
Re-assembly is in the reverse order.


CZ

........or a crecent wrench and bend it forward and down out of the way.......permanently, without removal as this bracket adds support for air-box attached in one piece. The two side-mount bolts are more than enough for supporting airbox and not creating stress on the carb holders. This will also allow upper portion of airbox to be pulled back and down out of way for carb removal.

[jwhughes3]

Agreed - I cut out the center portion and just attach the box using side plate screws - many miles later there is no problem or damage from removing that excess strap and the box easily pushes back for removal/install.

John

[jetmechmarty]

How come I don't have any trouble removing my carburetors. My airbox slides back plenty with the three point mounting system in place.

One of you folks put a video on here that I can't seem to locate. I shows the carbs coming out in a minute.

[BA80]

+1 Marty. I've never really had an issue either. Just pull it back till the boots slide off the carbs and twist the front down. Sometimes a little extra effort to get that bracket past the mount but no reason to cut it.

[motoman]

Agreed - I cut out the center portion and just attach the box using side plate screws - many miles later there is no problem or damage from removing that excess strap and the box easily pushes back for removal/install.

John

Many miles?. IIRC, that was some 7,300mi. just one trip many a mile.

[IanDMacDonald]

Not gonna brag here, but my airbox screws on-top are taped-off, top bracket removed, and box is held-on by side screws.

[motoman]

........or a crecent wrench and bend it forward and down out of the way.......permanently, without removal as this bracket adds support for air-box attached in one piece. The two side-mount bolts are more than enough for supporting airbox and not creating stress on the carb holders. This will also allow upper portion of airbox to be pulled back and down out of way for carb removal.

......... that just looked like what was done to mine sometime during its decade and a half of absense from my owning it from new, so just left it that way.

[XSIIE]

The wire is to lift your back wheel up to allow the rear axle to clear the exhaust system. There is a diagram behind one of the side panels detailing haw to rig it.

Nice bike. One of those in that condition OZ would cost us AUS$3000 plus.

Eddy.

78 2H9 (oceana model)
81 3X1 (same)
81 5N5 (similar to your special but sportier)
81 5N5 (project)

[TexinMaine]

Found a local guy who will clean my tank for $40-$75, depending how many times he has to run it through the process. After taking he petcocks out its clear that the screens need replacing. I noticed in the Clymers it said my petcock should have two ports that connect to the "octy" but it only has one port on the bottom. But I noticed today that on the back of the petcock there is a second port that runs horizontal. Should some thing be connected to that? After taking the tank off there was a hose that was in a bracket under th tank and ran down to the top of what I would assume to be the transmission. Was this supposed to "T" off and connect to the petcocks? It seems to be in the right area for that.

Tex