Looking to buy 1978

[dpotter58]

[QUOTEThis was in the tool kit bag. Any one know what it is??

[/QUOTE]

it's used when changing the rear wheel. Nice find. Great bike

Those carb boots may be good. They have metal inside. Check by spraying some started fluid or propane around them while its running. If the RPMs pick up they are leaking. if not they are good

[IanDMacDonald]

I believe that is the cable used to lower the rear to pull the rear axle, as the exhaust is in the way. I just realized this now. I have one somewhere.

[MarkD]

Looks to be a real nice find. It won't take a lot to get it up and in good shape, looks like. Another test of the carb manifolds/ holders, if you take carbs off to clean, etc, you can inspect the insides of the holders. Mine looked like yours, so I replaced them, and as I took the old ones off, I saw they were indeed fine, just surface cracks that didn't go through the inner layer.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tex,

Great find. Don't go spending $$ on the intake boots YET. They are double walled, and most of the time, the inner layer is still intact and airtight, just cosmetic cracks on the outside. Folks have done various things to make them more cosmetically appealing from Plasti-dip, to black RTV, to plumber rubber tape....YMMV.

As Doug said, that wire device connects to a little hook on the end of the swingarm and the frame to pull up and hold the rear wheel/axle up above the height of the muffler so that you can remove the axle without having to drop the exhaust. On standards the muffler extend beyond the axle line.

FYI, don't use any of the JETS in the K&L carb kit...they are NOT Mikuni and will not be right!

Find member Catatonic Bug's profile, go to his website, and download a copy of the Owner's Manual, you might also want to get an official Yamaha service manual besides the Clymers you have there.

T.C.

[BA80]

Like TC said, those boots are probably fine. Just a little normal weathering on the outside.

I would first clean the carbs. It's been sitting and that gums them up without fail. Clean ALL the electrical connectors and look for any damaged/melted ones. The fuse panel is one of the weakest points in the electrical system. Make sure all the fuses are making good connection or just replace it with a spade type box. TC has 'em.

Do these basic preliminary checks and services and see where your at.

I'm a little jealous.

[BA80]

BTW.....how does the tank look inside?

[TexinMaine]

well it would appear that I may have a 79 and not a 78. It was advertised as a 78 but the old gentleman who had it originally had a folder full of receipts for repairs and they all reference a 1979 XS. That being the case is their much difference between the 78 and the 79 standard? BA80 I do plan on tearing down the petcocks and carbs and give them a good cleaning, as for the tank it looks pretty rusty so I believe chaotic bug had a link on his page about coating them and I will do that while its off.

Tex

[BA80]

I would try cleaning the tank before I lined it. There are several really good products out there for cleaning up rust. I really don't like liners personally.

Look HERE to positively identify what year it is.

[IanDMacDonald]

well it would appear that I may have a 79 and not a 78. It was advertised as a 78 but the old gentleman who had it originally had a folder full of receipts for repairs and they all reference a 1979 XS. That being the case is their much difference between the 78 and the 79 standard? BA80 I do plan on tearing down the petcocks and carbs and give them a good cleaning, as for the tank it looks pretty rusty so I believe chaotic bug had a link on his page about coating them and I will do that while its off.

Tex

Nothing that you or I may notice. Sealed beam headlight, On/off switch for headlight, one size smaller/bigger on main jet/pilot jet respectively, and a different timing wheel and timing advance.

[crazy steve]

well it would appear that I may have a 79 and not a 78. It was advertised as a 78 but the old gentleman who had it originally had a folder full of receipts for repairs and they all reference a 1979 XS.

The tank color/graphics are '78, but to know for sure check the numbers on the motor serial pad. If it starts with 2H700**** (with * these being the individual serial number) it's a '78. If it says 2H702****, it's a '79. There's only really two 'major' differences between them; the '78 and early '79 had 'tube only' wheels while the later bikes used tubeless tires, and the '78 has a considerably more aggressive timing curve which is pretty much the performance difference between the models (the '78 is quicker/faster).

There's some other detail differences, but they're only important to a restorer...

Nice score by the way, those tool kits aren't all that common and you'll use the tire-change cable...

[TexinMaine]

OK, well I defiantly have a 78, my serial number is 2H7-0026XX. Not sure why everyone else was calling it a 79. One more 12 hour shift tomorrow and then off for 5 days. Very anxious to get her on the road.

[BA80]

http://www.fastenermart.com/html/480140060120.html

[BA80]

http://www.fastenermart.com/html/480140060120.html

Disregard this post...................wires crossed in old brain tissue.

[TexinMaine]

Disregard this post...................wires crossed in old brain tissue.

Well I reckon if I ever need a stainless steel metric threaded rod I know where to go now.

[BA80]

I have a comeback but it wouldn't be appreciated on this forum......