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Anyone have a good fix for this?
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The screw holes for the ignition cover? I'd have thought the best method would be aluminium welding, drilling and cutting new threads....XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Alloy welding is a bit of an art that needs proper equipment. The problem with aluminium as far as I understand is that the oxide melts at a higher temperature than the metal, so it can splurge all over when heated. It needs inert gas welding. No doubt someone will come back soon with a more informed response re this.
Looking at your latest pic though, it looks like it's only the one bolt hole at the front that's cracked off?
If it were mine, I'd have alloy welded onto the damaged bolt hole, then drill and cut a thread, then tidy up with a fine file or Dremel to get the weld tidied up, if necessary....Last edited by James England; 03-30-2014, 10:41 AM.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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I did one of mine with Devcon aluminium putty (click)
You can drill and tap it once cured, as its a cover you take off occasionally I drilled and tapped for an M6 thread insert. I used the cover as a guide, held in place by the remaining screws, to get the hole positions right, electrical insulation tape wrapped round the drill where it was in the clearance hole of the cover.
My XS1100 engines are black so its easily painted, are the US XS1100 engines painted silver or bare aluminium? you could use a bit of silver paint to cover it. On the black engine its impossible to see the repair and as its thread inserted I even forget when doing maintenance.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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Welding aluminum can be very tricky. You can't stick weld it, MIG welding is possible but very difficult (you need special wire, gas mixture, and wire gun), TIG is the usual method. Cast aluminum is the worst as the metal (particularly Japanese) isn't always 'homogenous'. Generally not a lo-buck DIY deal...
But there is hope... look at this: http://www.muggyweld.com/
This guy sells some low-temp 'solders' that don't offer the same strength repairs, but it can be done at home with a propane torch. You'd have to build up the missing parts, file to shape, then re-drill/tap the holes. I haven't used this stuff personally, but know of guys who have, most (but not all) with decent success.
JB Weld can be made to work also, with similar results to above although not the same strength.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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I got some of those rods Steve, great for doing thin aluminium but I just couldn't get enough heat into the casting, the crank cases are so big they wicked all the heat away.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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Tom, he also sells some sort of 'heat dam' putty that's supposed to keep the heat where you need it...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Interesting!! hmmmm
I concluded that my torch just wasn't up to it and went for the putty, very pleased with that stuff for that job, but if I needed a bit of strength in the aluminium would prefer the solderTom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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This is almost always caused by laying the bike down, with or without 'engine guards'. Most engine guards will bend back, contacting the covers and busting the covers and/or the case screws....Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostThis is almost always caused by laying the bike down, with or without 'engine guards'. Most engine guards will bend back, contacting the covers and busting the covers and/or the case screws....
There's a market here in the XJR market for 'crash bobbins'..great big cylindrical lumps of plastic at key points. Again, I'm not personally keen on them as they seem to indicate feeling insecure on the bike.
Just my own view, of course. No doubt bars etc have saved some bikes from more serious damage but if I buy a bike with them on, I immediately remove them.......XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by Eastcoaster View PostGreat responses thank you...
What do you think causes this failure and how can we prevent it from happening. I am almost afraid to touch the timing cover screws on any bike anymore?
GordonXS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by Eastcoaster View PostGreat responses thank you...
What do you think causes this failure and how can we prevent it from happening. I am almost afraid to touch the timing cover screws on any bike anymore?
Gordon
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...sh+bars&page=21980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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Originally posted by James England View PostPersonally, I dislike engine 'guards'. Especially on something like a CBX1000, where they really detract from the appearance. They are also large levers, like having crowbars on the engine waiting to exert a load of force on vulnerable casings etc. I know people will correct/disagree with me on this but they seem to scream out "look at me, I'm not entirely sure if I'm going to fall off!" A bit like the increasing habit here in the UK where some riders drive along at up to 30mph with their feet 2" from the road as if they think they're not up to avoiding wobbling off at low speed.
There's a market here in the XJR market for 'crash bobbins'..great big cylindrical lumps of plastic at key points. Again, I'm not personally keen on them as they seem to indicate feeling insecure on the bike.
Just my own view, of course. No doubt bars etc have saved some bikes from more serious damage but if I buy a bike with them on, I immediately remove them.......1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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