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  • Front Wheel Bearings

    Does anyone have a special procedure of getting the front wheel bearings out of the hub? The spacer moves ever so slightly to the side, but does not seem to move enough without some pretty serious forcing.

    Just wondering if there is a procedure.

    Mike
    1981 XS1100H Venturer
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    Mike

  • #2
    From the opposite side, you can use a "drift" or a large, flat screwdriver. You push over the spacer in there to the side to make contact with the race of the bearing with the screwdriver. Give it some wacks and continue with the other edge of the race , walking it dide to side, to push the bearing free. Save the bearing race. Cut a slot through the race and use that to install the new bearing. Save it for future use. You know what to do with the other side...
    Skids (Sid Hansen)

    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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    • #3
      Bearing Removal

      Originally posted by skids View Post
      From the opposite side, you can use a "drift" or a large, flat screwdriver. You push over the spacer in there to the side to make contact with the race of the bearing with the screwdriver. Give it some wacks and continue with the other edge of the race , walking it dide to side, to push the bearing free. Save the bearing race. Cut a slot through the race and use that to install the new bearing. Save it for future use. You know what to do with the other side...
      I have used that method before. Was hoping that there was a less forceful way or a specific bearing tool. But no big deal.
      1981 XS1100H Venturer
      K&N Air Filter
      ACCT
      Custom Paint by Deitz
      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
      Stebel Nautilus Horn
      EBC Front Rotors
      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

      Mike

      Comment


      • #4
        I know the rear wheels haves slots cut into the alloy hub to allow a long drift to whack the outer race out from the opposite side of the wheel.

        Although I did my front bearings, I can't remember whether there are slots in the hub like in the rear. Force is the only way, although you can put the new bearings in the freezer overnight and then warm up the front hub with a hair dryer or careful use of a heat gun. This makes the bearings tap in easier. I've always used a socket spanner to tap them in with and smeared a little bit of grease on the outer race. They key is not to let them get lopsided as you tap them in. This makes them difficult, if not impossible to get in. Just make sure that the bearing remains level as you tap it in and you'll be fine.
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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        • #5
          The bearings for the front are cheap, no sense working to hard to save them, just replace them.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

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          • #6
            Yep, there is really no way of getting the first bearing out without striking it in the center area which may/may not damage the bearing, so for sure I wouldn't re-use it.
            2H7 (79)
            3H3

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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            • #7
              Yup... since the bearings are so cheap, the method is to move that spacer, then beat the **** out of them. Just don't forget to put that spacer back in there before installing new bearings...

              You might already realize this, but I take the old bearings and hit them with the bench grinder to the outside of the race until they easily slide in and out of the wheel hub, then set the old bearing on top of the new one to drive the new one into place.
              Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

              You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by MPittma100 View Post
                Does anyone have a special procedure of getting the front wheel bearings out of the hub? The spacer moves ever so slightly to the side, but does not seem to move enough without some pretty serious forcing.
                Just wondering if there is a procedure.
                Mike
                Hi Mike,
                if you can nudge the spacer sideways enough to get a punch onto the inner race to force the bearing out, great!
                But by doing that you've still scrapped the race.
                If the bastard won't move doing that, do this:-
                Pry out the bearing shield so you can get at the ball cage.
                Dremel the cage rivets off and remove the cage.
                Scoot all the balls to one side, move the race inner to the other side and pull it out. Remove the loose balls with a magnet on a stick.
                Pull the bearing spacer out.
                Now you can get a big fat drift down there to drive the other bearing out.
                Fred Hill, S'toon
                XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                "The Flying Pumpkin"

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                • #9
                  Having bashed a bearing, I'd never consider using it. Especially not on the front wheel! And, as has been said, the front new are just normal ball bearings and cheap as you like. Bash 'em out, trash 'em if necessary...new ones in! Job done.

                  Usually, they come out easily enough, in fact. Far better a tight interference fit than a loose bearing in the hub!.
                  XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by trbig View Post

                    You might already realize this, but I take the old bearings and hit them with the bench grinder to the outside of the race until they easily slide in and out of the wheel hub, then set the old bearing on top of the new one to drive the new one into place.
                    Cutting a slot through the race is easy also.
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Wheel Bearings

                      I got them out. You just have to quit treating them like a baby and proceed to thrash. There really should be a better procedure, but Yamaha didn't leave us a lot to work with.

                      I have seen a worse procedure. Back in the day, I know of at least one auto machine shop that kept a wooden stump in the shop. This was their axle bearing removal tool?

                      They would put the axle down on the stump (bearing end), cover it with a cloth, and proceed to bash the living sh_ _ out of the bearing with a sledge hammer!

                      Still can't believe it to this day.

                      Mike
                      1981 XS1100H Venturer
                      K&N Air Filter
                      ACCT
                      Custom Paint by Deitz
                      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                      Stebel Nautilus Horn
                      EBC Front Rotors
                      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Get a 5-gallon bucket and a propane torch. Get the new bearing ready to slide in. Move the heat around the aluminum hub of bearing making even heat. When the grease starts to boil put the heated end down over the bucket and lightly tap with screwdriver in other side pushing the spacer to side and the bearing will slide out if it doesnt just drop out. Flip the rim over empty side up and slide in the new bearing by pushing with the handle of screwdriver will probably be enough force. Same procedure for other side. You do not need to heat enough to damage good quality paint but cheap plastic coat may bubble.

                        Or you can always beat the **** out of it depends on needed release of agression
                        To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                        Rodan
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
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