gasket removal question.

[GLoweVA]

I took the jugs off my holey piston engine in preparation for some none holey pistons and I'm having a pita getting the 30yr old base gasket off.
Any ideas? My knife is really slow going.

[James England]

How about one of those mini blowlamps to soften it up a bit?

[650mark]

stubborn gasket

try using a gasket removing tool available at any auto parts store for about $5.00. mine clamps a single edged razor blade in it and it makes gasket and crud removal simple. I usually warm the gasket/crud just a little bit with an old blow dryer

[MPittma100]

Abrasive Pads

There are abrasive pads that fit a die grinder/drill that cut gaskets, but no harm to metal. You can get 1 or 2 inch diameters. The pad material looks very much like a "Scotch Brite" pad. They work on the most stubborn gaskets. They have threads on the pads and screw on and off of the arbor quickly.

Here is an example but it is not the exact one I have:

http://www.grainger.com/product/MERIT-Backup-Pad-3RU43?s_pp=false

Mike

[TopCatGr58]

Hey George,

They have the Scotch Brite discs at wallyworld, let's see if this photo link from 3M works?



T.C.

[Old Red]

CRC Gasket Remover (12oz) - CRC Industries 05021, this will soften the gasket and make it easier to remove.

The Other Earl

[Rasputin]

TC the ones pictured in your reply are far to rough to be using for gasket removal. I have used them and they will tear out 3/4 inch of Bondo in a few seconds.
I use the earlier mentioned ones that appear as a scotch bright pad. They are great but require a compressor to do the job, which many do not have.
The CRC stuff that Ol Red mentions works very well to get gaskets off. It is fast and serious stuff for getting a gasket to almost dissolve before your eyes. Big down side to it is it will harm aluminum if left to long so be wary of that. If it is rinsed off quick enough it may not be a concern but it does take more time to get the more seriously stuck gaskets off as well.
The razor blade scraper is ones best friend if you do not have a compressor handy. Heat will aid it. If one does have a compressor then you can not beat the 3M scotch bright looking pads. I have some here but they appear to not have a part number I can find. I can take pics later if it helps.

[trbig]

I usually scrape the easy stuff with a razorblade knife and finish with a little flap wheel sander that Dremmel makes. Small enough to get into those tight areas between studs.

[MPittma100]

Abrasive Discs

I use these with the arbor on a right angle die grinder. They are available in different levels of abrasion. They will take off the toughest gaskets with no other tool needed. Leaves the metal clean and unharmed. Did I mention that they do it quickly?

Mike

http://www.grainger.com/product/ARC-ABRASIVES-TR-Locking-Sanding-Disc-WP75218/_/N-/Ntt-2+inch+abrasive+discs?sst=subset&s_pp=false

[crazy steve]

I'll scrape as much as possible off, then use the 'blue' Scotchbrite discs, AKA 'surface conditioning discs'. The brown and maroon ones are coarser and will remove metal unless used very carefully. As seen here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39869

Whatever you use, make sure the 'dust' doesn't get inside the motor...

[ViperRon]

I have always had good luck using either good quality gasket or paint remover to loosen it and a hobby exacto 1/2 flat blade. Acetone works pretty good on the harder materials also. The exacto allows you to get into tight places. You have to get flat and level and take care not to put too much pressure on the blade.