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Shove a wooden broom handle or dowel rod down there to hold it still.
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Find a bolt with a 19MM head (3/4" should also work) and tighten two nuts together on the end. With the fork laying on the bench, put the double nut end in a deepwell socket with a long extension, slide it into the fork tube and the head of the bolt will fit into the damper rod as shown in the pic below. Now you can hold it from spinning while you undo the allen bolt on the bottom of the leg.
This is the tool that goes down into the fork to hold the damper rod.
Down in the fork assembly the top of the damper rod looks like a socket.
You can make a tool.
Some time ago, I was having this same issue with my Special and asked the same question. (The Special damper rod has no teeth in it to grip.) Bikerphil said to cram a broomstick against it and that will hold it. He was right.
Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
Maybe I have been lucky with the Special forks I have rebuilt. I always break the allen bolt loose, then when it starts to turn the damper rod, I grab the upper tube with my thumb and for finger, and the lower slider with my other three fingers, then spread my fingers to create a friction of the slider pulling on the damper rod that holds it from turning while I remove the bolt. I do have to get a new grip every so often as the bolt comes out. Ehh...It works for me anyway.
Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
Thank you all. I was stumped for sure. So I stopped and asked and wow!. Great, quick information. And I thank all of you. Made the tool and will proceed to disassemble and rebuild.
Mike
1981 XS1100H Venturer K&N Air Filter ACCT Custom Paint by Deitz Geezer Rectifier/Regulator Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers Stebel Nautilus Horn EBC Front Rotors Limie Accent Moves On In 2015
LOL.
If you do use Locktite, you will need the nuts-on a-stick to get them apart next time, a broom handle won't get it.
CZ
Mine were put on from the factory with locktite so I figured there was a reason.
And yes they were a bitch to break loose even with the tool I fabbed.
What also isn't in my pic is the 18" cheater pipe I used with the ratchet while standing on the wrench.
1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
Maybe I have been lucky with the Special forks I have rebuilt. I always break the allen bolt loose, then when it starts to turn the damper rod, I grab the upper tube with my thumb and for finger, and the lower slider with my other three fingers, then spread my fingers to create a friction of the slider pulling on the damper rod that holds it from turning while I remove the bolt. I do have to get a new grip every so often as the bolt comes out. Ehh...It works for me anyway.
Hi Don,
If you blow in the end while holding your fingers like that does it sound like a didgeridoo
Phil
1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
1983 XJ 650 Maxim
2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)
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