issues

[Truefreak104]

Yes while stationary ....tryed to roll it and change gears nothing....can start it in gear and it doesn't jump or anything ....I'm thinking the clutch is stuck engaged ......basically as if I had the clutch pulled in .....

[mikubuilder]

yeah, that's normal, clutch plates frozen together..
you can try to free them by running start, and dump the clutch in a gear, or you can put it on centerstand, block rear wheel with 2x4 through the frame and hit starter button....
I would wait till you get her running, most likely they're just stuck from sitting...

make sure your fluids are changed, main, middle and final drives...then brakes, (or maybe brakes first, lol)

[Truefreak104]

Yeah changing clutch plates tomorrow and changing al fluids .....hopefully I can get a few gears working otherwise I guess I'm pullin the tranny and or final drive apart

[mack]

clutch

No need to change the plates. The plates sticking together is very common. Go a head and change your fluids but don't pull off the clutch cover. Just get the bike running in neutral on the center stand and pull in the clutch lever for a while so the basket will spin and lube the whole circumference.
If it doesn't free up right away just give it a push while running in neutral, jump on and kick it into gear and give it a shot of throttle . Pull in the clutch lever and slam on the rear brake. That should break it free. Slip clutch for a minute or two and it will be well lubed and give you no further issues until next spring.

[trbig]

No need in pulling the trans. or final drive apart... unless you find the 1st/2nd gear skipping issue after you get it running. It's kind of like deciding to tear your motor apart because you have a brake hangin'.. lol.

[trbig]

I was going to add.. (But got blocked out of the site again) that if you go in to change the clutch discs which almost never ever go bad... that you should change your clutch springs. I suggest Barnett springs. Not the cheapest (But you're only talking maybe $10 difference) but by far the best and longest lasting that I've used.

[D0wn5h1ft]

yeah, that's normal, clutch plates frozen together..
you can try to free them by running start, and dump the clutch in a gear, or you can put it on centerstand, block rear wheel with 2x4 through the frame and hit starter button....
I would wait till you get her running, most likely they're just stuck from sitting...

make sure your fluids are changed, main, middle and final drives...then brakes, (or maybe brakes first, lol)

Why doesn't he just put the bike on the side stand and remove the right engine cover, take the clutch basket out, and break those plates free? If the bike is on the center stand you don't have to drain the oil to get that engine cover off.

While you're in there I'd think about installing some new heavy duty star plate springs. Those old ones are probably all worn out but you can check their spring constant by following the manual.

https://www.denniskirk.com/ebc/csk-c...prd/382009.sku

For $10 it's well worth the money.

[Truefreak104]

Ok ...so the side cover is already off ....ill put it back and put fluid bavk in it and try the center stand trick....should have came here about it first lol

[Truefreak104]

Oh and no breaks yet so ill do it some other way lol

[trbig]

If you've already got the clutch cover off, replace those springs. AND.. you can do what you want, but that link to the EBC springs posted.. as well as the "Heavy duty" Vesra springs.. don't last. I was going through a set of those every few months. The Barnett springs will probably last most folks on here forever. I've had mine on at least two years.. maybe more.. with still no hint of slipping. BUT... if you put new springs in, you better have a torque wrench as it's pretty simple to overtorque and twist off those spring bolts. Seems like they're made of aluminum, and the old German "Gootentight" doesn't apply. I'm thinking they're like 7.8 foot pounds of torque, and probably 10 or 11 will twist the heads off.

That said.. Let me get this straight. Your bike seems to be stuck like it's in NEUTRAL.. not stuck in gear? You can click it into first and with the clutch out, spin the rear wheel?

[Truefreak104]

Yea...not sure if I have said this yet but ....this bike was attacked by tweekers...so I figured it out they had the final drive bolts at the trans....put bolts back in and hey....trans works fine...ran fuel lines put some gas in the tank and ...bam the bike runs...throttle cable is garbage sticks keeping the bike wide open ...took the cable completely off and turned the idle screw all the way out ....started and adjusted the idle ....bike runs smooth and clutch and gears all work good ...so far at idle on rear stand....riging up a cable from a roadking for the throttle....so up till now gotta pulk the carbs again...the floats r sticking ....dumping fuel and then its welding time for the bobber look .....kinda stoked

[trbig]

and then its welding time for the bobber look .....kinda stoked

And this is the point where you'll lose many of the people on here's interest. Not everyone, but most. I realize it is your bike and that not everyone has the same eye for things, but most people on here love the XS11. They love the lines, it's fit and finish, and hate when people go chopping and hacking on them.

But good luck with it and I hope it turns out as you invision.

[fredintoon]

No myth

Yet another that believes in this myth... much like those that say not to jump start a bike from a running car engine. - - -

Hi Tod,
not a myth.
But it ain't the bike or whatever else is being boosted that gets harmed.
It's the donor vehicle.
Not the old winter beater but a car new enough to have computers in it.
Boosting with the engine running confuses the things.
After the second time you've fished through the odometer reset button hole with a straightened paperclip to pull the tach needle back to zero from the 1500 rpm it stuck at after boosting with the engine running, you may not understand why it did that but you know not to do it again.

[trbig]

Not sure what kind of cars you're talking about, Fred, but every car I own has computers, and every one of them has "Boosted" or been boosted several times, even my son's brand new Jeep has jump started the boat motor a few times. Why is it you think a within-normal-limit amperage draw would harm an otherwise good charging system or confuse a computer? Are you using your computer's hot wire to jump things? Did you somehow knock the neg cable loose to where it was momentarilly disconnected from the charging system or did the other vehicle have a direct short? THAT isn't good for them any more.. Used to be you could get a car running, then take the battery out.

I've sure been wrong before, but this sounds like some other problem besides a normal jump start to me.

That being said.. this is totally off subject as the topic was about damaging the BIKE by using a running vehicle.

[fredintoon]

Giving the witchdoctor a chicken

Not sure what kind of cars you're talking about, Fred, but every car I own has computers, and every one of them has "Boosted" or been boosted several times, - - -

Hi Tod,
1982 Olds Cutlass Ciera.
Boosted I don't remember what with the Olds' engine running.
Noticed the Olds' tach needle stuck at 1,500rpm and not zeroing again even after several stop/starts.
Had to fish the needle back to zero through the odometer hole.
You mistake me for a smart person, eh?
HTF should I know why that happened?
I have no idea whether other cars would act up like that but why tempt fate?
And the car I have now ain't got a little hole to poke a wire in.
To sum up.
Boosting a bike with the donor vehicle's engine running will not harm the bike.
Will it harm YOUR donor vehicle?
I have no idea but it did annoy my Ciera. Twice.
Take the safe option and boost with the donor's key off, eh?