Wiring Help

[TheRev]

Hello All

I am trying to wire a digital dash but I am having problems. My bike is a 79 xs1100 F. I am color blind and I have having the worst time with this damn wiring. My digital dash has one wire for these functions:

Ground --
12v + --
Tach --
Temp --
Illum -- Backlight
Hi Beam --
Neutral --
Oil light --
L Turn --
R turn --

My problem is when I look at the wire diagram for the xs it has multiple wires for many of these functions, yet the dash is only asking for one wire. How do I choose? When I look at the harness every damn wire looks the same to me. Can someone help me match the wire on the harness to the correct wire on the digital dash? if you tell me the color on the harness i will have my wife help me identify it for me. thanks

jared

[TopCatGr58]

Okay,

Tried to get these off of a "colored" diagram I have, hopefully Crazy Steve or someone else will review and correct me if I make/made any errors!

Low beam=Light Green
High Beam=Yellow
Grounds=BLACK
Right turn= DARKGreen
Left turn=DARK brown
neutral=light blue
Oil Warn=Black/Red
Tach=WHITE..DON'T USE...see my reply to your other thread!
Dash Lights=BLUE
12v= LIGHT TAN/BROWN

No Temp light/wire.

T.C.

[crazy steve]

You're going to have some issues with this..... but here's at least some of the info.

Ground -- This will be any black wire with no stripe.
12v + -- Brown
Tach -- See below
Temp -- See below
Illum -- Backlight -- Blue
Hi Beam -- Yellow
Neutral -- Sky blue
Oil light -- Black/red stripe
L Turn -- Chocolate (dark brown)
R turn -- Dark green

For the tach, you'll very likely have to run a wire as the XS tach doesn't work like a conventional one; it's connected to the alternator. Without seeing the wiring diagram for your dash, I'll assume that it's supposed to connect to one of the ignition coils. This wire will have to be installed by you. Same goes for the 'temp gauge'; you'll have to install any wiring between the gauge and the sending unit if you have one that came with the dash.

You don't mention a speedo, so I don't know what you're doing with that.

It should also be mentioned that if you still have the OEM turn signal flasher in place with the auto-cancel feature working, this will cause your turns to not work or cancel. There's several work-arounds for this depending on if you want all features to work.

[DGXSER]

I would think if you ran a wire from the grey or orange triggers on the coils to the dash tach, your going to read double the rpm due to the wasted spark ignition system.

[TheRev]

Thanks for the quick replies. Here is a diagram of the dash i am using.



Of course this thing doesn't give any instructions except how to connect the magnetic speedo, which isn't that complicated. I bought all the necessary relays to convert the signals to LED and still make the flasher work (according to the post that explains the procedure). I am not sure what you mean by attaching a wire to the alternator. I have no problem splicing into another wire as long as I know which one. Thanks so much for this help. I should have thought about my color blindness before I attempted this project, but usually it isn't a problem.

[IanDMacDonald]

I would like to see your mounts and review of this gauge for future projects.

[crazy steve]

What you have is designed for a late-model water-cooled sport bike, so this won't just 'hook up' to the XS....

You have no place to connect the 'temp' wire, so cap that one off.

The 'fuel sensor' will be a crapshoot. The stock gauge works with a 8-80 ohm 'range' from the tank sending unit (assuming it's working properly and you still have the standard tank), what this gauge requires would only be a guess. I wouldn't count on this being accurate... The wire from the sending unit will be green.

The tach will be the big problem. Because the existing unit reads AC cycles from the alternator and 'converts' that to RPM (the only one I've ever seen that works this way), you have no existing wire to connect to. You'll have to run a new wire to one of the ignition coils (either one, it doesn't matter) and tap into either the orange or grey wire. This may or may not give you an accurate reading, it could read right, read 1/2, or read double, depending on how the tach is set up internally. There may be a selector switch on the gauge for this, allowing you to change the input. If not, who knows....

[fredintoon]

Fifty shades of grey?

Thanks for the quick replies. Here is a diagram of the dash i am using. - - -

Hi Jared,
sorry about the tagline but it did seem appropriate.
Perhaps you have someone who would tag all those wires with their letter codes for you?
And I had a problem looking at the XS1100E wiring diagram for the white wire that fed the tach.
Finally realized that the diagram shows it going to the fuel gauge. Ah well.
But why put that video-game thingie on the bike anyway?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jared,

Can you post a link to where you got the dash cluster from?? This way we can look it up, do some research on whether the tach will work, etc.!

T.C.

[TheRev]

Here is where i bought the digital dash.

http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/danmo...oduct-389.html

[TopCatGr58]

Thanks Jared,

Regrettably, their site doesn't have a good SUPPORT section, so I can't download any manual for it. It says it comes with one so you should have one, hopefully it'll tell you how to select how many cylinders you are metering, and then can tell by just idle if it's close to the 1000 mark or twice or 1/2 that, and then adjust accordingly!

That's a cute little gauge cluster, about 3" x 1" tall for the viewable screen size. Just wish it came in GREEN!



T.C.

PS, once you get it installed and working, we'll expect to see a Product REVIEW in that Forum!

[TheRev]

thanks for all the help. When i get it working i will write up a product evaluation.

[TopCatGr58]

Any Progress?

Hey Jared/Rev,

Just bumping this thread, took me a while to find it. I'll be getting a little extra $$ in a few weeks, and I've kinda gotten tired of my pathetic hodge/podge of gauges...my faded repaired tach face, as well as my XS850 140 mph dark green speedo. My bike is far from stock anyways, so I've been thinking about a new revised digital speedo/tach combo, similar to the one you said you got, but a little larger, like 160mm diam/wide vs. just 120mm.

What I'm wondering about is if you were able to get the tach reading accurately, and did you use the 2 cyl mode since ours is a wasted spark design vs. the 4 cyl. mode?? The one I'm looking at is one of those "inexpensive" analog electronic tach and dig. speedo, with other dash lights, turn, hi beam, oil, battery, neutral and such. It is adjustable for front wheel sizes from 17" to 22" or so, and has 1, 2 and 4 cylinder modes....however I don't know if it's designed to count pulses from just 1 coil like on an older car engine that uses 1 coil and a distributor....or if it's able to count extra pulses like from a multiple coil design??? Of course it's CHINESE/Korean and so the documentation is rather sparse, and I don't know if they would be able to understand what I would ask about to get them to explain how it counts pulses anyways???

T.C.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151148976592

[fredintoon]

- - - Of course it's CHINESE/Korean and so the documentation is rather sparse, and I don't know if they would be able to understand what I would ask about to get them to explain how it counts pulses anyways??? T.C.

Hi TC
calibrate the device in the real world.
Set the speedo to MPH, ride between two mileposts at what the speedo sez is 60 and see if it takes one minute.
If the speedo setting works, see what the tach sez when the bike is going 60 in high gear.
You know it should be ~4,500 rpm. If it reads ~2,250 or ~9,000 change to the other setting.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Fred,

Thanks for that info, sounds like a good plan. The item description actually says that it can read a 1 cylinder, as well as 2 and 4, but of course it doesn't say whether it is designed for an engine with 1 coil or 2. Just to help me wrap my head around it a little better, I made a little text diagram.

Legend: I=intake; C=compression; F=Fire/power; E=Exhaust; R=1 Revolution

Single Cylinder engine:
C F /R/ E I = 1 cyl/ 1 fire/pulse for 2 rpms

Twin Cylinder Engine:
E I /R/ C F = 2 cyl/ 1 fire/pulse per 1 rpm
I C /R/ F E

4 Cylinder Engine = 2 fire/pulses per 1 rpm; 2 coils wasted spark 1 fire per rpm per coil; 1 coil distributor: 2 fire per 1 rpm
1)C F /R/ E I
2)C F /R/ E I
3)E I /R/ C F
4)E I /R/ C F

SO....I will assume that the 2 cylinder mode will be the correct one to try first. I was just worried that it wouldn't have the right RANGE of pulse counting modes to match ours?? I will be connecting it to the Trigger/neg side of the ignition coil primary wires. Thanks for this mental exercise, looks like it will be doable, I'll of course report on it when I eventually get and install it!

T.C.