Exhaust header stud removal

[TomB]

If welding you have to ground to the stud or take the risk that in welding the threads could weld inside to the head.

Good point on steel heads, unlikely on ali heads

[MaximPhil]

I am following along here having had two studs break before departing for XSSouth East and one FAIL along the way. I am planning on getting them all replaced over the winter.
Are the studs really so special I have to go to a Stealer Dealer ?

Phil

[D0wn5h1ft]

I am following along here having had two studs break before departing for XSSouth East and one FAIL along the way. I am planning on getting them all replaced over the winter.
Are the studs really so special I have to go to a Stealer Dealer ?

Phil

I've tried finding them online and I haven't found anything besides really expensive ones listed on parts sites. They only cost me $1.50 each at my local yammy dealer and were well worth the money.

[James England]

I've tried finding them online and I haven't found anything besides really expensive ones listed on parts sites. They only cost me $1.50 each at my local yammy dealer and were well worth the money.

They are basically 8mm threaded rod with a bump in the middle. They are readily available on eBay.

[D0wn5h1ft]

One side is a bit longer than the other though, which I suppose doesn't matter but they were cheap and came with a nice anti-corrision coating so I was obliged. Sometimes doing things the right way ends up paying off.

[IanDMacDonald]

Installing my OEM exhaust today, and cyl. #3 stud somehow screwed back into the head, and I was not able to get the nut to screw onto it (not enough thread showing). Ended-up destroying the threads, pulled it out with ease, and will re-install after work tonight. Found them @ Taylor Hardware for a dollar something. A few millimeters longer, and they were $3.69!!!

[skids]

That shouldn't happen with real studs due to the nonthreaded portion.

[James England]

Follow up

Well..here's a potentially sad tale, narrowly averted...

I soaked the seized stud in Plus Gas for a week, interspersed with a chemical called trichloroethylene which dissolves grease and gasket compound and Loctite etc. I bought a brand new Irwin grip wrench and heated the stud with a mini propane torch for about half an hour. All of this was made difficult by the stud being partially obscured by one of the frame cradle tubes,mso I wrapped things in cooking foil to protect them.

My mistake was trying to preserve the threads in case the stud would not move. In restrospect, it would have been better to bite the bullet and do as I did later...after the wrench trashed the threads and the bolt sheared. It left a small stump protruding...the unthreaded bulge in the middle of the stud. I thought it would mean engine out and drilling the stud (too many horror stories re Easy-Outs snapping off, so no way I would use one).

In desperation, I welded a bolt onto the stump, using a primitive stick welder, having disconnected all earthing straps, removed the battery, ignition ECU etc.. The weld 'took' and I used a ring spanner on the newly welded bolt. The bolt head then sheared off, leaving the threaded portion still attached to the stump of the stud! I then built up a large blob of weld on what was left. Using the wrench on the blob, the stud moved a tiny amount. I sprayed it with Plus Gas again and used trike on the blob, applied with an artist's brush, so the wrench would grip. It then took a further 15 minutes of untightening, tightening, untightening a bit more,p etc until finally the whole stud came out, leaving the threads in the head intact. Much relief!

I can hardly believe that a mere 15mm of threaded stud could be seized so hard! The heat from welding must have softened the red Loctite which was on the stud.

Looking back, what I should have done was not hedge my bets and I should have first of all welded a nut onto the stud just next to the unthreaded bump in the stud.

It was a close call and I've now cleaned out the eight holes and have bought some titanium studs off eBay. I plan on coating these with anti-seize before screwing them in.

My bike is 10 years old and has 6500 miles on the clock. I suspect with older bikes, the studs may be more corroded and ppssibky as difficult. I'd recommend welding a nut on in the first place if the stud does not move at first, the heat is what does it, I reckon.........

[fredintoon]

- - - I've now cleaned out the eight holes and have bought some titanium studs off eBay. I plan on coating these with anti-seize before screwing them in. - - -

Hi James,
apart from the bragging rights, what's the advantage in using titanium studs instead of steel ones?

[IanDMacDonald]

How many times do you plan on removing your exhaust yo justify the use of titanium?

[TomB]

Good result James.

I used Hastaloy studs for exhaust, they have the same corrosion resistance level as Titanium but far superior tensile strength. Does titanium have self anaodising ability, not sure that will happen inside the head though.

I've had titanium cover screws snap very easily, I wouldn't use them for exhaust studs.

[MaximPhil]

Good result James.

I used Hastaloy studs for exhaust, they have the same corrosion resistance level as Titanium but far superior tensile strength. Does titanium have self anaodising ability, not sure that will happen inside the head though.

I've had titanium cover screws snap very easily, I wouldn't use them for exhaust studs.

Hi Tom,
What nuts did you use on the Hastaloy studs ? I was wondering about using Stainless . not sure what grade would be available.

I currently have a stud broken off two threads into the head. i am debaing my options. Perhaps dremel with a fine cutter to create a slot.
Maybe better to just pull the head and replace them all as this is the 3rd failure.
Phil

[IanDMacDonald]

Yikes! I'll be pulling the exhaust off again over the winter for engine paint. I hope I don't break any studs.

[TomB]

Being honest Phil.... I only used the Hastaloy because they were available free, the next best I use is stainless, use A2 studs with A4 nuts, this will reduce the risk of galling the threads (cold welding).

On my Kerker I use acorn nuts with plenty of copperslip as this keeps the crap out that causes corrosion which causes you to snap studs, the Kerker has flat collars.

On other exhausts that use standard XS11 collars if I havn't got the correct exhaust nuts I use A4 connector nuts with 1/2 the length of them turned down so they fit into the Collar counterbores.

The other thing that stops snapping studs is gentle tightening on the nuts, if you're taking exhaust on and off a lot use Silicon mastic and re-use the old gaskets, have you ever tried to burn off silicon mastic, its real good stuff. Don't believe me? try it

[IanDMacDonald]

Thanks Tom. I'll remember this tidbit about the sealant.