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Ok to remove head nuts without removing cams [Head Gasket Leaking]

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  • #61
    I have a buddy that has a '77 XS750 2D, and a '78 XS1100E that he wants to get rid of for $1,000 for both; non-running.
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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    • #62
      Sorry for being slow getting back. Valves can be bent in several ways very easily. If cams are in the head and the head is valve down on a bench it only takes a small bump and they can bend. If you try to do out of bike valve adjustment and put buth cams in more then likely rotating a cam will bend a valve. The correct sequence for installing a head is first rotate the engine to the proper position TDC cyl 1 and when putting in the cams make sure the dots line up when bolting them down. If either the engine or the cams are rotated much and not in this position they will likely be bent. As for the voltage these bikes are notorious for connection problems. The voltage you read while sitting Idle is not always what it is once you try to start it often drops. I like to see a good 11 volts at the TCI when cranking the engine.

      I will give you a for instance on wiring. I developed a start problem where I could push the start button and the bike would crank until I let off then the start button then would not work till you turned the bike off and on. Then the problem got to the point it would not crank from start button. It would crank from jumpering relay but it when started and the jumper across relay removed bike cut off. Sitting Idle all voltage seemed ok. The wire leaving the Ignition block had a poor conection on the output, This was impossible to check with meter in a non operating condition because untill it had a load everything was good.

      If the spark is good and timing and compression is good you should be able to have the bike start if you spray a little gas in each intake vacume port. It will not run but it will fire up and immediately die.
      To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

      Rodan
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
      1980 G Silverbird
      Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
      1198 Overbore kit
      Grizzly 660 ACCT
      Barnett Clutch Springs
      R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
      122.5 Main Jets
      ACCT Mod
      Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
      Antivibe Bar ends
      Rear trunk add-on
      http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

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      • #63
        Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
        Off by one tooth wouldn't keep it from running would it?
        Nope but it does screw with your other readings such as low vacuum etc. I chased my tail for quite a while finding this out.
        http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31788
        This thread shows some of my adventures with timing being out and there are more that I have posted here somewhere. I simply wanted to post this as I was in a similar position because I could not find the solution to what the original poster asked.
        2-79 XS1100 SF
        2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
        80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
        Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

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