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Ok to remove head nuts without removing cams [Head Gasket Leaking]

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  • #46
    You may want to check the fuse for ignition and make sure you have good voltage to the TCI if the voltage is low under 11 v the TCI can become intermittant just like the broken wires on pickups. If bike was working before you took it appart then you first check the areas that you worked with Mechanical timing and compression because any time the head is off the valves can be easily bent. Wiring because you typically disturb it when shifting the air breather assembly arround. Next would be things that just fail like electronics. When carbs were working before and you have not added fuel or let them set for a long time they are the last thing I go for.

    While you can not fix things that are not broken you can break them. Sometimes repair success becomes directly proportianate to how many things you work on to repair the problem.
    To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

    Rodan
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
    1980 G Silverbird
    Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
    1198 Overbore kit
    Grizzly 660 ACCT
    Barnett Clutch Springs
    R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
    122.5 Main Jets
    ACCT Mod
    Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
    Antivibe Bar ends
    Rear trunk add-on
    http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

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    • #47
      Originally posted by ViperRon View Post
      You may want to check the fuse for ignition and make sure you have good voltage to the TCI if the voltage is low under 11 v the TCI can become intermittant just like the broken wires on pickups. If bike was working before you took it appart then you first check the areas that you worked with Mechanical timing and compression because any time the head is off the valves can be easily bent. Wiring because you typically disturb it when shifting the air breather assembly arround. Next would be things that just fail like electronics. When carbs were working before and you have not added fuel or let them set for a long time they are the last thing I go for.

      While you can not fix things that are not broken you can break them. Sometimes repair success becomes directly proportianate to how many things you work on to repair the problem.
      I check the voltage coming from my TCI (orange to ground, grey to ground) to my coils and it was about 10.53v is that too low? Why would it be low if my battery is a full charge?

      As far as the cam timing is concerned, I took that very seriously when I put the head back together. I followed the manual to the letter and made sure the dots on the cam boss lined up with the arrows just like it says in the manual.

      I really don't understand why people say the valves can easily be bent. I never took the valves out of the head. I just removed the valve lifters and pads (fancy name for shims) just like the manual said but I didn't touch the valves because there was no reason to remove them.
      78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
      79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


      "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by D0wn5h1ft View Post
        I really don't understand why people say the valves can easily be bent. I never took the valves out of the head.
        Hehe, they bend like paperclips if you turn a mis-timed engine over.
        1979 XS1100F
        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

        Comment


        • #49
          Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
          Hehe, they bend like paperclips if you turn a mis-timed engine over.
          I guess what I meant is "how they can be bent if you do everything right". If you get compression and a successful spark I can see how they might be bent if the cam timing is off and all of that pressure is inside the cylinder but I would think that'd be relatively difficult to do. (I say that until it happens to me)...
          78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
          79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


          "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

          Comment


          • #50
            Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
            Hehe, they bend like paperclips if you turn a mis-timed engine over.
            That's disturbing...
            Guy

            1980 XS1100G - Frankenstein - resurrected from the impound lot
            1991 Suzuki GS500E (not running yet)
            2003 Burgman AN400 - Blue Belle
            2005 Burgman AN400 - Silver Belle

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by D0wn5h1ft View Post
              I guess what I meant is "how they can be bent if you do everything right". If you get compression and a successful spark I can see how they might be bent if the cam timing is off and all of that pressure is inside the cylinder but I would think that'd be relatively difficult to do. (I say that until it happens to me)...
              "Thinking" u did everything right, and doing it right are two different things. Then there is sometimes just nature at work. Mechanical things do crazy stuff sometimes. Chain develops a kink, or has minimal tension, jumps a cam sprocket tooth or whatever, and there goes all of your intake valves. I could go on & on. I read a lot of the old threads for bedtime reads. The engine knocks that develop into a hole in the case are interesting, especially when nobody could diagnose the cause through just words, and the next night it's pics posted of holes. Things happen, and sometimes you have to chalk it up. Other times, definitely owner error.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by D0wn5h1ft View Post
                I guess what I meant is "how they can be bent if you do everything right". If you get compression and a successful spark I can see how they might be bent if the cam timing is off and all of that pressure is inside the cylinder but I would think that'd be relatively difficult to do. (I say that until it happens to me)...
                I dont disagree with your comment, if you did everything right then its not an issue. You might want go back to basics at this point, starting with compression check. You have spark by the sounds of it, that leaved fuel and compression.

                Statistically speaking, the problem is related to what you worked on. If the motor ran before you worked on it then going into the carbs would be last on my list. It wouldnt hurt to crack the valve cover and see if the cam dots line up or just go get that compression tester.
                '79 XS11 F
                Stock except K&N

                '79 XS11 SF
                Stock, no title.

                '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
                  It wouldnt hurt to crack the valve cover and see if the cam dots line up or just go get that compression tester.
                  I have had good compression with the timing off a tooth so the only sure way to tell is to remove the valve cover and recheck things.
                  2-79 XS1100 SF
                  2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
                  80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
                  Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    [QUOTE=D0wn5h1ft;424052]I check the voltage coming from my TCI (orange to ground, grey to ground) to my coils and it was about 10.53v is that too low? Why would it be low if my battery is a full charge?
                    QUOTE]

                    Hook a known good battery up to your bike via cables or what have you. Early on in this thread you mentioned it was on the charger. WHY?
                    If a battery needs charging it already has problems, at least most times. Unless you do something like drain it down trying to start it or leave your lights on and that type of thing.
                    Batteries can fail for a multitude of reasons that I will not go into here but they can cause so many problems. So pull the old lady's van in there and use a set of jumper cables to the correct wires and try it again. Personally I would disconnect the bikes battery and just go with the car battery. That is a lot of discussion we have had previously and the choice is yours. It would at least eliminate one possible area of concern. Good Luck
                    2-79 XS1100 SF
                    2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
                    80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
                    Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      How's it coming Gabe? Dang rain shoulda given u plently of garage time to tinker.
                      1979 XS1100F
                      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Rasputin View Post
                        I have had good compression with the timing off a tooth so the only sure way to tell is to remove the valve cover and recheck things.
                        Off by one tooth wouldn't keep it from running would it?
                        '79 XS11 F
                        Stock except K&N

                        '79 XS11 SF
                        Stock, no title.

                        '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                        GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                        "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Nah. Just not running great. It would be the equivalent to a mis-timed bike.
                          1979 XS1100F
                          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                            How's it coming Gabe? Dang rain shoulda given u plently of garage time to tinker.
                            Been a bit preoccupied with selling the '78. Now that it's sold I'm picking up an FZR600 on Saturday, buying a battery for the '79 (because I was swapping the one in my '78 back and forth), and hopefully "finishing" it.

                            As far as the charging stuff goes, this bike has never had electrical issues but the '78 did at one point.
                            78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
                            79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


                            "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              I'll give u less than a year before u go bigger displacement on the sport bike, probs 750, then a liter bike.
                              1979 XS1100F
                              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                                I'll give u less than a year before u go bigger displacement on the sport bike, probs 750, then a liter bike.
                                It's supposed to just be in "investment bike" until the spring when I'm going to sell it because I'm picking it up dirt cheap. I'm not a fan of sport bikes and I don't really like riding them. If I could find a nice 80's japanese standard bike right now for the same price I'd snag it. For some reason the market right now in my area is saturated with overpriced older cruisers and nobody wants to budge on the price.

                                Not to mention the ones that are decently priced need untold amounts of work done to them which I'd be willing to put in if I didn't already have a project sitting in the garage.
                                78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
                                79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


                                "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

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