Ok to remove head nuts without removing cams [Head Gasket Leaking]

[skids]

Ballast resistor? See if it is hook-up and not shorting against something. Those things get in the way when you are pulling out the valve cover.

[D0wn5h1ft]

I transferred the dynateks out of the '78 I have so I took out the ballast resistor. It wants to start but there's something off about the fuel mixture I think. It may take another sync to get it right.

[IanDMacDonald]

Hmm Gabe. Looks like u should go back to square one and bench sync the xarbs and reset the mixture screws. In my experience though, even rough settings will get the bike started. Spark, air/fuel, compression. Figure it out bro. My bet is something electrical.

[Rasputin]

You could also try a plastic razor blade. I have yet to try them as I just recently learned of them but they are supposed to be great at everything from roving emblems to bird**** on paint.
OOps missed the page three, so my reply is a bit late in the process if you are now trying to start it.

[IanDMacDonald]

By plastic razor blade, are you referring to the snap razors? Like the disposable ones where u snap the blade off for the next blade?

[Rasputin]

Nope they are made of plastic and have a very sharp edge. It is said that you can remove tree sap from paint with them without damage to the paint and that they get more viscoius (howevre you spell that word) when used with water as a lubricant.
Do a google on them and you may be surprised.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Hmm Gabe. Looks like u should go back to square one and bench sync the xarbs and reset the mixture screws. In my experience though, even rough settings will get the bike started. Spark, air/fuel, compression. Figure it out bro. My bet is something electrical.

I have a good spark from all plugs. It's just that it doesn't seem to want to stay started. I get a couple burps out of it but that's it, almost like trying to start a cold bike without the choke out. I'm going to reset the mixture screws because that could easily be the culprit right there.

[RUSH]

One fun idiosyncrasy with the bike is if the pickup coil wires start to go it will be hard to start if not impossible unless you use some throttle to make the vacuum advance move and reconnect the sensor. One of the main symptoms is hard starting followed by a loud POP from the exhaust. Gunshot like. I would check the continuity of the pickup wires with a multimeter and a probe (sewing needle works good) and see if the wires have stretched and broken. Interestingly this can be an intermittent problem that may only occur when the bike is at idle, or warmed up and at idle. This is because the wires are stretched out more at low idle. In addition, look out for lack of fuel problems and vacuum leaks. my 2 cents

[D0wn5h1ft]

One fun idiosyncrasy with the bike is if the pickup coil wires start to go it will be hard to start if not impossible unless you use some throttle to make the vacuum advance move and reconnect the sensor. One of the main symptoms is hard starting followed by a loud POP from the exhaust. Gunshot like. I would check the continuity of the pickup wires with a multimeter and a probe (sewing needle works good) and see if the wires have stretched and broken. Interestingly this can be an intermittent problem that may only occur when the bike is at idle, or warmed up and at idle. This is because the wires are stretched out more at low idle. In addition, look out for lack of fuel problems and vacuum leaks. my 2 cents

HOW very PECULIAR. The first time I went to start the bike, what happened? turn, turn, turn, BANG. It hasn't done that since (but it also hasn't started since). I took a multimeter to the pickup coils and check them out and they were getting the right resistances even when I shook the hell out of the wires. I might go back at it again and see if I can't get different results.

[RUSH]

dont check for resistance, the pickups never go bad, but the wiring to them gets stretched and breaks inside the insulation. They are expensive and a PITA to replace, but easy to splice in new wire to repair the break.

[RUSH]

Reread your posts. It may not be the pickup coils if you have spark. They control the input from the TCI unit so if you have spark the coils should be good. I would check just to make sure as this is a COMMON problem with the bike. After that all that is left is compression, fuel, and timing. Fuel can be a BIOTCH mainly be cause of all the orifices in the carbs that HAVE to be COMPLETELY clear. not to mention the petcocks that can also be a PITA.

[D0wn5h1ft]

I'm going to take the tank and carbs off my running '78 (assuming it doesn't sell by this weekend) and put them on this '79 to try and narrow down the problem. If I have spark and fuel/air then the last thing would be compression so if the tank and carb combo doesn't work I'm going to rent a compression gauge from the o'reilly's down the street.

[RUSH]

Harbor Freight should have a compression tester for you nearby at:

YPSILANTI, MI #00170
2399 ELLSWORTH RD
YPSILANTI,MI 48197
734-434-2402

[motoman]

Harbor Freight should have a compression tester for you nearby at:

YPSILANTI, MI #00170
2399 ELLSWORTH RD
YPSILANTI,MI 48197
734-434-2402

Maybe wanna pul the valve cover and re-check the cam timing if you had the cyls. off.

[jjz28]

are you sure you are getting fuel. Are you on prime? Just making sure.