stuck float again

[motoman]

The airbox is the same piece for Standard or Special. The frame looks to have the bolt hole just in front of the tank hold down bolt location. The u shaped bracket on top of the airbox is supposed to slide over that lip at the front of the gas tank mounting spot. The bolt goes through the bracket that holds the wiring harness down and the middle drive vent tube, then through the airbox bracket, and bolts to the frame.

So the air box can not drop down until the carbs are removed and you can slide the bracket off that flange forward. This is why I cut the bracket and snorkel off, so the airbox can drop down after it is slid back off the carbs.

No reason ever to remove the snorkel or bracket. That airbox WILL pull back and down against top of engine case to remove carb bank out the left side. Sorry, just don't get all this unnecessary modifications in order to remove carb bank. If I have the lowers on fairing, still only takes less than 15min. so have carb bank on bench.

[DGXSER]

Maybe it IS different on the Standards then, all I have ever owned and really worked on were Special models. On the Specials, the lower section of airbox is of course removed, but the top section will only slide back about 1/2" to an 1" before it hits the battery box. The bracket on top, over the frame, and the snorkel over the battery area keep the upper section from dropping down. So you need to pull the carbs back, then twist them front to back to get the inlet bells above the air intake stacks, so you can now elevate the carbs above the boots. then the carbs will slide out, ever so carefully, as you work the idle adjustment section around the oil tube.

By doing the above modifications, the upper air box section can drop down out of the way to sit almost on op of the middle drive. This creates a lot more space to pull the carbs back out of the intake boots and remove them from their space.

It can be done without the mod, done it many times. But with those two mods it is ALOT easier.

[natemoen]

I cut that bracket off long ago and haven't thought a bit about it since. Couple weeks ago I went to help someone with his carbs and he has a MNS and I have to say that stupid bracket was in the way, not really a problem but it slowed things down a bit.

[IanDMacDonald]

I'm leaning towards DGXSER on the 1" of clearance thing. If I remove battery, the box can go back further. However, after having just done this last week with battery in, it still was easy as pie for me. I do have to stipulate one thing that MAY make a difference and steer people in the wrong direction as to the ease of this, I DO NOT HAVE A LOWER HALF TO MY AIRBOX.

[natemoen]

I'm leaning towards DGXSER on the 1" of clearance thing. If I remove battery, the box can go back further. However, after having just done this last week with battery in, it still was easy as pie for me. I do have to stipulate one thing that MAY make a difference and steer people in the wrong direction as to the ease of this, I DO NOT HAVE A LOWER HALF TO MY AIRBOX.

How do you not have a lower half? Are you the one that has pods inside your airbox?

Either way though you remove the lower half of the airbox first.

[IanDMacDonald]

Nate- No, I have Shousey440's automotive airbox conversion

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ive+air+filter

[jetmechmarty]

Maybe it IS different on the Standards then, all I have ever owned and really worked on were Special models. On the Specials, the lower section of airbox is of course removed, but the top section will only slide back about 1/2" to an 1" before it hits the battery box. The bracket on top, over the frame, and the snorkel over the battery area keep the upper section from dropping down. So you need to pull the carbs back, then twist them front to back to get the inlet bells above the air intake stacks, so you can now elevate the carbs above the boots. then the carbs will slide out, ever so carefully, as you work the idle adjustment section around the oil tube.

By doing the above modifications, the upper air box section can drop down out of the way to sit almost on op of the middle drive. This creates a lot more space to pull the carbs back out of the intake boots and remove them from their space.

It can be done without the mod, done it many times. But with those two mods it is ALOT easier.

No. I believe they're all the same. I'm all thumbs and can have the carburetors on the bench in less than 10 minutes. Four clamps and three bolts and the airbox moves back plenty far enough. My airbox is complete with snorkel. My bike is a SG. The tank and seat are what's most in the way. Getting rid of those would make the job much easier!

[GLoweVA]

On my way to XS SE, I had to pull them off.
It was easy, but a PITA because the engine was HOT.
Reaching under there to loosen the airbox screws sucked!
I also had a shorter screwdriver than I would have liked, but I still got it done pretty quick.
I have the bicycle seat conversion on my SG seat, so pulling the seat was a snap and the 2 bolts on the side of the airbox and the 8 clamps then slide the bank out the left side.
I still have the full bracket up top, but I don't put a bolt in it.
It does hinder the re-aligning of the airbox boots to the carbs some, but with a little finesse, it'll go on okay.
I may replace the phillips screws on the clamps with something like allen cap screws instead. Trying to line up the screwdriver with those little screw heads on #2 & 3 are a little tricky too.

I didn't think that my little report of my 2 time failure/repair would generate this much response, but that's one of the things I like about this site (and people) is the sharing of ideas and opinions. It makes you think about how you do things and maybe there may be a way to improve upon the process.

[jetmechmarty]

On my way to XS SE, I had to pull them off.
It was easy, but a PITA because the engine was HOT.
Reaching under there to loosen the airbox screws sucked!

Why are you taking the bottom off of the airbox? Or are you? Four clamps and three bolts is all it takes.

[GLoweVA]

Why are you taking the bottom off of the airbox? Or are you? Four clamps and three bolts is all it takes.

I've found that without taking the bottom of the airbox off, there's not enough room underneath for the air box to drop (due to breather hose and fuel lines) this allows the inlet carb bells to clear the inlet tubes.
I like to push the air box down about 2-3" and then pull the carbs back then slide out to the left. The oil feeder tube interferes with the idle adjustment knob, that's why I pull the rack backwards a little.
Plus, by pulling the airbox lower (and air filter) I can check it out for fuel overflow. (which I had in both cases this time)

[motoman]

i've found that without taking the bottom of the airbox off, there's not enough room underneath for the air box to drop (due to breather hose and fuel lines) this allows the inlet carb bells to clear the inlet tubes.
I like to push the air box down about 2-3" and then pull the carbs back then slide out to the left. The oil feeder tube interferes with the idle adjustment knob, that's why i pull the rack backwards a little.
Plus, by pulling the airbox lower (and air filter) i can check it out for fuel overflow. (which i had in both cases this time)

.....+1....