Almost there

[spayne83]

Holy Balls!!!

I changed the oil and changed the jets back to 145/45 and double checked the float height at 23mm. I was unable to get the filter off as the bolt is probably welded in. I used everything to try and get that bolt to loosen up and nothing worked. I eventually flipped the bike on it side to get more leverage and that still didn't work, but oh well. I had to rig up zip ties to operate the choke because my #1 choke clip screw decided to never come out and I have yet to drill it out and replace it. So she fired right up and started smoking like a chimney and continued to do so for the mile or so until I got on the highway. I noticed a lot of power just waiting for the smallest bit of throttle, but when I got on the highway, HOLY BALLS!!! It still has a flat spot in the midrange, but it will pull all the way to 8000 and quick. Now I understand what everyone was talking about having to hold on.

So I am thinking that the midrange needs to be richened up to match the increased jetting, so 1 notch richer will happen next week. I still need to sync the carbs and set the timing, but I have to believe that it is pretty close to spot on.

How do you guys get off stubborn oil filter bolts?

[motoman]

I changed the oil and changed the jets back to 145/45 and double checked the float height at 23mm. I was unable to get the filter off as the bolt is probably welded in. I used everything to try and get that bolt to loosen up and nothing worked. I eventually flipped the bike on it side to get more leverage and that still didn't work, but oh well. I had to rig up zip ties to operate the choke because my #1 choke clip screw decided to never come out and I have yet to drill it out and replace it. So she fired right up and started smoking like a chimney and continued to do so for the mile or so until I got on the highway. I noticed a lot of power just waiting for the smallest bit of throttle, but when I got on the highway, HOLY BALLS!!! It still has a flat spot in the midrange, but it will pull all the way to 8000 and quick. Now I understand what everyone was talking about having to hold on.

So I am thinking that the midrange needs to be richened up to match the increased jetting, so 1 notch richer will happen next week. I still need to sync the carbs and set the timing, but I have to believe that it is pretty close to spot on.

How do you guys get off stubborn oil filter bolts?

Leave the jetting alone....your gettin' ahead of yourself a bit again. Set the idle mixtures to JUST highest in. vacuum using same gauges used to sync. the carbs. Then sync the carbs. Re-check and adjust the mixtures to get that max. vacuum draw on each, then re-sync again. Report back your results or ask questions for CORRECT procedure BEFORE proceeding. Hope that helps!

[TopCatGr58]

The oil filter bolt can be a stubborn thing, Yamaha put too small a size hex head on it, so it rounds off easily because folks tend to overtorque it when they put it on. If you have access to a welder, weld a decent sized nut onto the end of it that you can get a better purchase with a larger socket.

Otherwise, a cold chisel and a sharp rap on the edge aimed at a CCW direction will usually bust it loose enough. You can buy replacement bolts, and if you go that route, you can then cut/grind the head off!

T.C.

[Gallaecus]

it was probably smoking cuz you had the bike on its side.
you may not want to do that.

get the engine hot to take the bolt out.
get the "right wrench" on it and dont slip.

[spayne83]

I'll see if I can get it to idle right so that I can do the sync tomorrow, but that has always been an issue with this bike even when warm. It simply does not want to idle under 1200-1500.

All the fluids were out of the bike with the exception of the oil in the oil filter, and it was only smoking from the right hand side like it was before.

I just checked and there is no dripping oil from that side, so I hope that it was simply a matter of too thin of oil.

I used vice grips to try to get the bolt off after the 12mm wrench that felt like it fit rounded off the edges. I think it will now be a matter of grinding a flat side into it an attacking it with a chisel after warming the bike up.

[TomB]

At no time do you mention doing plug chops to determine what the mixyure is doing at any throttle positions, that is the first thing I'd do to see which way to go with carb settings.

Stick in there, you're getting there, though it may seem frustrating at this stage.

[motoman]

I'll see if I can get it to idle right so that I can do the sync tomorrow, but that has always been an issue with this bike even when warm. It simply does not want to idle under 1200-1500.

All the fluids were out of the bike with the exception of the oil in the oil filter, and it was only smoking from the right hand side like it was before.

I just checked and there is no dripping oil from that side, so I hope that it was simply a matter of too thin of oil.

I used vice grips to try to get the bolt off after the 12mm wrench that felt like it fit rounded off the edges. I think it will now be a matter of grinding a flat side into it an attacking it with a chisel after warming the bike up.

That idle circuit is suspect restricted still somewhere. Did you dissassemble carbs far enough to pull out emulsinion tubes and throughly clean. Other possible issue, and usually foremost is voltages input to coils(low rpm, poor charging= low voltages TO coils). Output voltages from coils to plugs can also factor into this issue also. Ohm checking coils can SOMETIMES help in sourcing out issue, but is NOT a sure fire way of determining coil cond. A cold coil can check out fine, but when hot, still have an 'open' in the windings. First found this to be true decades ago in the automotive world. DEfinitely not ALWAYS a sure-fire way of either confirming 'good' or condemming a coil.

[spayne83]

I pulled out the emulsion tube and polished them and then took a tooth pick to the holes. I also put in Mikuni needles, so those should be good. The power to the coils should also be ok as they are brand new Dyna Coils and and I did the coil repower. I have yet to turn down the idle with the current setup, so I will do so and report back.

[motoman]

All the valves are within specs.

I will do a compression test tomorrow, but I did one when I first got the bike and one cylinder was down, but it has never leaked before.

I'm going to finish changing the oil and then see if that fixes things.

Even if you have just one vacuum gauge, you can get those synced closer than a bench setting which will help veer bad thoughts away thinkin something internal with carbs is still wonky. Definitely use that vacuum gauge to set idle mixtures if not familiar with the 'lean-drop' method or having trouble hearing an actual sound change. Idea is to complete a tuning process CORRECTLY first before assuming other internals, jets etc. are cause of running issue.

[spayne83]

The carbs have been synced and the timing set. She will now idle at 1100 just fine, but I still run into a wall at 5000-6500 with popping which clears up and pulls hard to redline, I can cruise in those RPMs but any throttle brings on the popping. Other than that she pulls hard now and runs smooth.

[motoman]

The carbs have been synced and the timing set. She will now idle at 1100 just fine, but I still run into a wall at 5000-6500 with popping which clears up and pulls hard to redline, I can cruise in those RPMs but any throttle brings on the popping. Other than that she pulls hard now and runs smooth.

Just curious, did you re-plug the crossover?

[spayne83]

Do you mean the screw over the pilot jet? Yes, I did

[spayne83]

I dropped the clip down on the needles to richen up the midrange, but that only made the problem worse. Now it shakes violently if I give it more than half throttle between 4000-7000. But it will rev freely with the clutch pulled in. Should I go the other way and lean out the needle?

[spayne83]

I put in stock plugs and raised up the clips to lean out the needle jet. It did seem to make 4500-7000 hesitate less, but it is still there. The old plugs were all rich except #3 but they all looked scorched next three the ground strap. From reading this article http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/readplugs.htm, I am leaning toward the timing being too advanced when it reaches the full advance around 5200. What do you guys think? I'm going to do plug chops tomorrow, but I'd like to get rid of the hesitation first.

[spayne83]

Here are the spark plugs. This is the original side gapped plugs





Here are the cleaned stock plugs



On the cleaned stock plugs there is yellow on the ground strap and porcelain. I cleaned them with a brass wire wheel and then only ran them for about 15 min from exit to exit on the freeway and a little idling. Any ideas on what that yellow stuff may be?