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  • #16
    Issues Resolved

    Followed TC's suggestion:
    I would try removing the black test lead, and stick the end of the red test lead into where the black one connects to the unit, and retest to see if it still shows 0.2 vs. 00. If 0.2, then swap out the red and use the black, and repeat. IF still 0.2...then the meter is just out of calibration, but again like Steve said, it's mute for just continuity testing, and you can adjust your final readings by just subtracting the 0.2 from whatever you see on the readout.
    Nothing changed, I will probably by another meter with some more features.

    Also followed Scott's directions to enlarge the wiring diagram, I didn't know a printer could do that! Made it much easier to study the circuits:
    Print the schematic in "Landscape" orientation and use "Poster" mode to put the entire thing on four sheets of paper, then trim and tape the pages together.
    Here were the issues I was trying to resolve:
    1) hazards: 3 blink, left front stays on
    2) left signal: rear blinks, front stays on
    3) apply front brake: left rear signal comes on
    4) turn key on: both tail and brake lights come on.

    First I swapped the front bulbs around but the problem stayed on the left side. So I started to study my new "big" diagram and discovered my screw up (apologies for the fuzziness of the reproduced diagram):

    [IMG][/IMG]

    The chocolate colored wire coming out of the left front signal should have been plugged into the connector marked by the red arrow, instead I had plugged it into the connector marked by the blue arrow where the brown wire from the front brake switch should have gone...and had the brown brake switch wire plugged in where the choc front signal wire should have been. Brown and chocolate are close enough in color that I switched them. Now my 4 ways and turn signals worked properly.

    On to the brake lights...I unplugged the 2 front brake switch wires and tested continuity and found no complete circuit until I squeezed the brake lever, so it worked like it was supposed to. I decided to test the wires to the rear brake switch the same way and again realized my screw up. I had replaced my old broken switch with a new one and had never adjusted it properly...there was enough tension that the switch was always on even without pressing down on the brake pedal. After a quick adjustment, all my electrical issues have been resolved.

    This was starting to really hack me off but figuring it out and fixing it myself was kinda fun when it was all over, and I appreciate everyone's help.
    Billy

    1982 XJ1100, Ceramic Coated Headers, Raptor ACCT, Barnett Clutch Springs, Dremmel Fix, TC's Fuse Block, De-Linked S/S Brake Lines, 850 Final Drive, Yahman's YICS Eliminator, Pods, stock jets

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    • #17
      Good on you that you found the issue and fixed it. So many just roll over and die, then sell the bike as to problematic.
      The members on this site are second to none when it comes to helping out and I applaud every one of them.
      2-79 XS1100 SF
      2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
      80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
      Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

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      • #18
        Way to go, Billy!

        .
        -- Scott
        _____

        2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
        1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
        1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
        1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
        1979 XS1100F: parts
        2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

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