xs11 Performance mods

[joep7]

So finally found a new transmission for the xs11 I bought cheap a few months ago. Guy locked up the tranny and sold it to me for 600 bucks. Really clean, running (except transmission) titled bike. Rebuilt carbs and everything! I even tracked down a stock airbox.




Was hoping to get it riding this summer but with the trip to italy just a month away the funds needed wont allow it.

Decided to take the winter and really do this one right.

Starting with the motor.

Replaced the whole transmission...or atleast tried but without taking the head and cylinder off and splitting case it was just a little too tight...


I work at a place with a decent machine shop. So I have access to a lot of equipment. Was wondering if anyone knows of any good bore upgrades. Id like to keep the sleeves in it and just go up a few mm with oversized rings. But I wondered if maybe a 650/750 twin or some of the bigger triples had pistons that would swap with a bigger bore???

Also would anyone be willing to take a look at my new tranny? I will ship it too you. I just want to make sure the dogs are done right. I would be willing to pay a little.

Clutch is getting new plates and springs.

Ordered shim set and new timing chains, tensioner, and gaskets

What other things can I do while I am in here??

[joep7]

Found this...would like to spend less

http://www.speedmotoco.com/product-p/k1196.htm

[skids]

I am concerned about "locked up the tranny." Is it just stuck in a gear?
I have heard about dry middle drives locking up. I hope that isn't the problem.

[motoman]

Found this...would like to spend less

http://www.speedmotoco.com/product-p/k1196.htm

Your scoot, but any power increase expected just because of an overbore IS an urban myth! Ain't gonna happen with these motors. Do some research reading here and you'll find(Dan Hodges) that some REALLY knowledgable folks have BTDT and spend as much as you make in a year to even MAKE at the wheel what crank rated H.P. was. Just aword from the wise..

[MindWebs]

Please pull the middle drive off and see what condition it's in.

At the least try draining the middle drive oil and if it's a quart
Of clear oil then you know it's good.

If it's red then it's done. Replace the drive and seal and move on.

I haven't heard of the tranny itself locking up.
The normal culprit is the oil from the middle drive leaking into the tranny
Then the drive overheats shreds the bearings and locks up.

[DGXSER]

What symptoms were present to indicate a locked up tranny?

As to the gears, if you have access to a machine shop, then you certainly can do or have done much more accurate work than the rest of the folks grinding with a dremmel by hand. The backcut does need to be more than a few degrees. Just make the corner where the top of the dog meets the sides very close to a point instead of the curve that causes the skipping issue.

[jjz28]

Does the bike run bad or something? If it runs good, just fix the tranny and ride it.

[joep7]

Photos didnt paste right...

Here is the tranny





I also bought a new middle drive so if I need to replace that I will.

Bike ran ok. blown ring on cylinder 4.

Does anyone know of any other bigger pistons that will fit in this block?

[crazy steve]

Yep, that one is toast.....

And as motoman said, trying to gain any real power on these is an exercise in futility unless you have lots of money, and every HP will be expensive. The Wiseco kit is one option for an overbore, there's a cheap one on eBay out of the orient (with cast pistons) that a lister is in the process of trying, but no feedback as of yet. Don't assume you have cylinder issues until you adjust all the valves, as tight valves are common and will lower compression by quite a bit.

There's no other known reliable sources for pistons. But if the motor is mechanically sound, just do the very best 'tune' on it you can for the best-bang-for-the-buck.

[DGXSER]

Between that fubarred tranny and the blown rings, you may want to consider a used engine. Might be your most economical option.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Joep,

See this on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-81-Yamaha...7486d7&vxp=mtr

It's equivical to the Wiseco in SIZE, but they are cast instead of forged, but our OEM pistons are also cast! It's the largest bore you can put in the OEM sleeves with boring. I have done the smaller Wiseco 1179 kit, and even though my dyno run wasn't impressive, I can say that it does provide a seat of the pants feel of being stronger than it was stock....but my bike had ~50K miles when I rebuilt it, and it had sat for 9 years, so my seat's memory was a bit foggy!

Although the OEM ignition coils are "adequate", they are 30+ years old, and I would suggest going to some hi output types...Accel or Dyna 3 ohm style and remove/bypass the ballast resistor.

Some folks who have done the more modern carbs mod have reported much better mileage and smoother throttle response. Suzuki or such...do a search YMMV. Also, change your pods....put on velocity stacks...I'm not fond of the OEM airbox, I like both the ease of R&R of carbs, as well as the SOUND, but out CV carbs like a straighter airpath going into them....the OEM airbox has velocity stacks inside of them to straighten and calm the air flow!

With more GO power, you will want stronger STOP power...SS brake lines at least, perhaps the dual piston Harley caliper mod since you have a standard. Drill your rotors for better water dissipation and cooling, and reduction of weight.

Yeah, those gears are toast....kinda rare for the primary and secondary gears to engage at the same time...wonder if someone had been in the tranny before it locked up??

We can't see your exhaust, do you have OEM or aftermarket? 4-2 or 4-1.

T.C.

[ViperRon]

You know another inexpensive thing to do is say for instance you have 1 cylinder bad that needs a bore but the rest are good. All you have to do is find a bank of cylinders with one good one. Remove and clean cylinder assemblies put them in your home stove oven at 300 degrees on a pan with the bottom down before the oven gets to temp the outer alluminum fin assembly will heat up and the cylinders will slide up. Pull the bad Cylinder sleeve put a good one in. After the good one is in put good assembly in oven upside down and it will reinsert in a short time. Turn stove off and get a good set of rings and a mild honing and you are golden. No boring saves $$$ and you get a few spares. I will tell you that you need to bore and replace pistons if you jump a size on rings because in a short time you will develop piston slap if you put larger rings on and bore and continue with the smaller piston. You can go one size up and cut the rings down but if you get too much skirt clearance and compression is high it will not last.

If you go with the 1196 kit make darn sure you work with a shop that is professional to bore and hone. The kit is very good and if you bore and hone the rings work out perfect no cutting or filling. If the guy/girl you get to bore uses an low quality machine or is not proficient you will not be happy. You really have to be careful on the lower portion of the cylinders as they can heat up and try to egg shape if not careful. Bore and hone the cylinders out to .0016 in clearance between skirt and cylinder wall and you get a tight .009 ring gap.

[joep7]

Hey Joep,

See this on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-81-Yamaha...7486d7&vxp=mtr

It's equivical to the Wiseco in SIZE, but they are cast instead of forged, but our OEM pistons are also cast! It's the largest bore you can put in the OEM sleeves with boring. I have done the smaller Wiseco 1179 kit, and even though my dyno run wasn't impressive, I can say that it does provide a seat of the pants feel of being stronger than it was stock....but my bike had ~50K miles when I rebuilt it, and it had sat for 9 years, so my seat's memory was a bit foggy!

Although the OEM ignition coils are "adequate", they are 30+ years old, and I would suggest going to some hi output types...Accel or Dyna 3 ohm style and remove/bypass the ballast resistor.

Some folks who have done the more modern carbs mod have reported much better mileage and smoother throttle response. Suzuki or such...do a search YMMV. Also, change your pods....put on velocity stacks...I'm not fond of the OEM airbox, I like both the ease of R&R of carbs, as well as the SOUND, but out CV carbs like a straighter airpath going into them....the OEM airbox has velocity stacks inside of them to straighten and calm the air flow!

With more GO power, you will want stronger STOP power...SS brake lines at least, perhaps the dual piston Harley caliper mod since you have a standard. Drill your rotors for better water dissipation and cooling, and reduction of weight.

Yeah, those gears are toast....kinda rare for the primary and secondary gears to engage at the same time...wonder if someone had been in the tranny before it locked up??

We can't see your exhaust, do you have OEM or aftermarket? 4-2 or 4-1.

T.C.

Thanks for all the input. I will look into some of that.

Tranny locked up I believe bc the countershaft was missing the spacing washer.

Exhaust is crappy Mac 4 to 1

[joep7]

Is there a good fork swap to get a more modern front end. Front looks like toothpicks to be honest.

[jwhughes3]

I beleve some have swapped in forks from an FJ1100 if you bring triple tree and all. I think the brake calipers were better in the FJ. They are a couple mm larger diameter.


Stock forks are not bad with a fork brace added. Www.Tkat.com


John