Neutral light not working any more

[MarkD]

Hi again, and thanks to you guys my XS11 is running like a beast. Hard to believe these things are 30+ years old, and run so fast and strong. There are a lot of bikes around, but these XS'ers are the classiest and the coolest.
Since it's been running well, I have done some tweaking, replaced glass fuse panel with a TC blade unit, trace a short down to get turn signal working, etc. So far, I've put 100 miles on it, not a lot, but they're fun miles. Now, a problem, and I've tried to chase down a thread that deals with 'no neutral light.' It worked a bit before intermittently, but now, it never works. Any ideas for a common problem? A neutral light is something we take for granted, but when it doesn't work, it's vey annoying. I started to remove the cover under my shift lever to look at the neutral switch, but stopped, as oil was coming out, and I didn't want to get into that right yet. Thanks for your help! Mark D

[MarkD]

Hi again-- also, the light may be burned out, but wondered about a quick removal to check.--Thanks--M.

[bikerphil]

The switch is not under the side cover, it is on the bottom of engine near the shifter, it has a wire that runs out of the harness down there by the frame rail, check that connection. You can test the light by grounding that wire with the key on, neutral light should light.

[natemoen]

Check the easy stuff first. Check the bulb......

Usually I would think if the neutral light sensor would fail it would fail on, but I am not sure.

[Bonz]

Also if you have been rummaging around under/around the headlight area, the electrical connector could have come loose, or come loose from riding if it wasn't securely together to begin with.

After converting my project 80G from a fairing back to a stock headlight, my neutral light and oil pressure light quit workng. I had bumped the connector loose when doing the work.

[MarkD]

OK-- grounded the neutral light switch w/ key on, and indicator light goes on. Bulb is good, I'll try the connection areas...

[Bonz]

Good sleuthing there, MarkD. Hope that the connector is the answer.

[DGXSER]

Where did you ground it at? Down at the switch? up at the bulb? A Connector?

If you grounded the wire at the switch by the shifter, and the light came on, then you need to clean the connection at the switch, or the switch itself is bad. Not seen many of those go bad, but it could happen.

[MarkD]

Connection areas at headlight look good. Shifted wire harness around, pulled, etc., could not get it to light up. Removed wire at neutral switch, connected it to ohm meter,checked for continuity w/ ohm meter, and it makes a circuit when meter is grounded to frame and pos. is connected to switch. Also checked bulb before all this, and it's good. Connected neutral switch wire to battery, grounded other post to frame , and neutral light lit up. This indicates good wiring. I would say the neut. switch is not working? Must be. Thoughts? Thanks---M.

[BA80]

If you ground the connector from the switch to the engine case does the light come on?

[DGXSER]

The Neutral switch is completing the ground for the light to light up. You should not need any positive feed to it. Simply take the wire off the switch, touch it to a bare spot on the frame, or a bolt on the engine, any good ground you can find. If you have spare wire sitting near by, run a wire from the battery ground to the wire at the switch. If that lights the light, then make sure you get all the oily crap off the switch and make a good connection with the wire. If it still does not light, then you neutral switch is hosed.

[MarkD]

OK-- results: Disconnected wire to switch, grounded it on frame-- lights up light; connected loose switch wire to battery ground, light lit up ; reconnected wire to switch , no light, but when I grounded it, light lit up. Bad switch? I used engine and neg. battery post as grounds.

[crazy steve]

Bad switch.....

[DGXSER]

Yes, sounds like a bad switch.

[MarkD]

That's kind of what I was thinking, but it's good to know you guys verified my thought. I've seen a switch online- ebay- $24+ $6 shipping. Also, other places for more. Will do some more checking. I'm guessing oil will drain as the switch is removed?--Thanks guys!