Auto CCT question...

[Bonz]

Sorry guys for the silly question... Do I transfer the outer spring and delrin pad from the stock tensioner to the auto CCT? What is best method to remove said pad and spring if needed?

[GLoweVA]

No need to transfer anything from the old CCT to the Auto CCT.
The metal end of the ACCT pushes on the cam chain guide just fine.

[Bonz]

Thanks GLoweVA!

[WMarshy]

Yup, direct replacement, no swapping any sub components.

[IanDMacDonald]

Just please follow the procedure exactly when doing so.

[GLoweVA]

Just please follow the procedure exactly when doing so.

Ian, you are so right about that. Bike on Center stand and try not to rotate the engine without some tension on that timing chain are the 2 bigggest pointers I can give.

[motoman]

Sorry guys for the silly question... Do I transfer the outer spring and delrin pad from the stock tensioner to the auto CCT? What is best method to remove said pad and spring if needed?

What others stated, but if your curious and wanna look at what ACTUALLY causes the stock plunger NOT stay where locked down, hold plunger in by hand and back loc bolt out almost all the way. This will let plunger clear the bolt and recessed area. On the flat portion of shaft, you'll see where the loc bolt has 'walked' back to its previous position while tightening down. Your old tentioner shaft WILL show that. Never seen one that didn't. BTW, good to hear you FINIALLY toook heed and changed that out for the auto tensioner. Presume that was on the low mile SG?

[Bonz]

Thx guys!

Went smooth as can be, and the bike sounds oh so much better with proper tension on the cam chain. The stock tensioner was more or less at it's limit, with the extra length of the auto cct, it took the slack right out.

I set the timing pointer to "c" rotating clockwise, removed the stock unit.

Removed the 19mm bolt and spring from the auto cct.

Trial fit it onto the engine, had to file out the top hole a decent amount on the bottom of the hole (Virago 535 auto cct is what I picked up off ebay).

Once the top hole was filed to fit, I depressed the plunger into the auto cct body, mounted the body on the bike using silicone sealer/gasket stuff, then put the spring back in, screwed in the 19mm bolt, and could hear the auto cct clicking as it extended from spring pressure as I put the bolt in.

Rotated the engine a few times by hand, called it good and fired it up.

My it sounds nice!

[BA80]

If the stock tensioner was at it's limit you should be changing that cam chain. If it's worn that much breakage is forthcoming.

That would be bad news for your engine.

[Bonz]

The stock tensioner had a bit of movement left in it, but it would not extend further when mounted. That is how I should have stated it. It was at it's limit because it wouldn't extend, but it could have. Myabe the cam chain could be replaced, but not at this point as it sounds fine with the auto cct in place.

I honestly feel with proper tension on the chain, the chain should be able to go further, safely, with an auto cct. Even if the auto cct ulitmately adjusts the chain more than stock unit would.

With the sound of my chain being what it was with the stock unit, and now the quiet normal sound with the auto cct, I do not see how the chain is going to come off or jump, given how "loose" it had been before. If it didn't come off/jump as I was running it hard after I refur'd it for the last 800 miles, I can't see it coming off now.

[jetmechmarty]

Thx guys!

Went smooth as can be, and the bike sounds oh so much better with proper tension on the cam chain. The stock tensioner was more or less at it's limit, with the extra length of the auto cct, it took the slack right out.

Mine looked like that. I stopped right there and replaced the chain.

[Bonz]

Something doesn't make sense...

I replace the stock CCT which is a known POS that can't and doesn't keep proper cam chain tension, and was not at it's adjustment limit because it is a known POS. When the auto CCT works like a tensioner is supposed to and quiets the noise, the cam chain should be replaced because the stock tensioner didn't work right?

Since Yamaha couldn't design a CCT worth a lick, I am comfortable running the current chain now that it is actually tensioned properly. With the sound the cam chain was making for the past 800 miles, no way in a hot place that cam chain is gonna be a problem.

[Rasputin]

Something doesn't make sense...

I replace the stock CCT which is a known POS that can't and doesn't keep proper cam chain tension, and was not at it's adjustment limit because it is a known POS. When the auto CCT works like a tensioner is supposed to and quiets the noise, the cam chain should be replaced because the stock tensioner didn't work right?

Since Yamaha couldn't design a CCT worth a lick, I am comfortable running the current chain now that it is actually tensioned properly. With the sound the cam chain was making for the past 800 miles, no way in a hot place that cam chain is gonna be a problem.

You are absolutely right Howard! You do your thing and I will be watching for updates! Is that what you want to see? No problem, I posted it for you!

[Bonz]

Explain? What did you post for me? Are you saying you agree the stock tensioner can fail before the cam chain really needs replacing? Thanks for the agreement!

[Bonz]

This post is mostly for Motoman... You will be happy to know I put an auto cct on the 80SG last night when I got home from work. Even used the cct from a Raptor in respect to your off-road roots.