Carb drain bolt leaking. Can't seem to get it to stop.

[Diskman01]

78E. Carb #1 bowl drain simply won't stop weeping gas. I made a new "gasket" from gasket material last year and it has helped some. I cant see any cracks.. Any input before I get silly and use some sort of sealer on the bolt??

[donebysunday]

carb bowl drain

I should have the copper or aluminum ones off the XS650, think they are the same PM me

[windysolar1]

drain screw

have you fitted a new o ring seal to the screw ?

[bikerphil]

have you fitted a new o ring seal to the screw ?

The 78 carbs don't use that type drain set-up, they have an metal crush washer.

[windysolar1]

drain screw

you keep your l plates for life

[MPittma100]

Copper Washer

Buy a copper or aluminum washer from Home Depot, Lowe's, or Ace Hardware. Take the drain screw with you for a match. If the leak is being caused by the gasket, either of these will stop it.

MP

[WMarshy]

You can find new crush washer at any auto parts store, just take your old one with you or your bolt for sizing. They can be reused but at some point they get too crushed and have to be replaced every once in a while.

[Diskman01]

Sorry for the late reply.. lol. Been a busy evening.

I *DID* take my bolt and old washer all over town last fall. NOBODY had anything remotely similar. ACE hardware suggested a plain old metric thick washer. lol.

I have the original crush washer with a hand-cut fiber one above that.

I will shoot some PMs out at suggested above.

[DiverRay]

Try JUST the fiber washer, or heat the old crush washer red hot with a propane torch, dunk it in oil, and put it back on. The TWO would allow the gas to seep past the inside threads on the bolt, and leak.

[ManagerMike]

Ditto, one or the other, not both. Copper or aluminum washer is best, fiber in a pinch. Next trip to the auto parts store, try their misc. brake parts selector kit... think banjo bolt sealing washers, just like on the brake hose fittings.

[mikubuilder]

also, what might seem like a bolt leak, might be the fuel tee(as in my case), there was a drip from number 3 bowl, but I traced it back to a cracked and leaking tee...

[WMarshy]

Sorry for the late reply.. lol. Been a busy evening.

I *DID* take my bolt and old washer all over town last fall. NOBODY had anything remotely similar. ACE hardware suggested a plain old metric thick washer. lol.

I have the original crush washer with a hand-cut fiber one above that.

I will shoot some PMs out at suggested above.

IDK what stores you stopped at but just an FYI, most of the guy at Autozone done know the difference between a dip stick tube and a hole in the ground. The Advanced Auto guys are better and the Napa guys are about the best IMO. I know all of the mentioned have them, you have to go to their hardware section and paw through it. If you just asked the kid at the counter and got a funny look then try asking an older guy working. The crush washers are usually near or on the same rack as the universal oil pan bolts. Hope that helps. I wouldnt waste my time at any of home/hardware stores.

[CaptonZap]

One other thing you might check is the sealing faces of the bowl and bolt. Someone with a carelessly applied screwdriver, (trying to pry the washer off, perhaps?) could have put a gouge in the sealing face, especially on the bowl, it being aluminum and all.
Not a common problem, but while you have the bowl off, it wouldn't hurt to look at it.

CZ

[Diskman01]

One other thing you might check is the sealing faces of the bowl and bolt. Someone with a carelessly applied screwdriver, (trying to pry the washer off, perhaps?) could have put a gouge in the sealing face, especially on the bowl, it being aluminum and all.
Not a common problem, but while you have the bowl off, it wouldn't hurt to look at it.

CZ

Ya. I was gonna re-check the surfaces. Possibly smooth them all with some 1000 grit on a sheet of glass. Just to make sure everything is nice and flat.