Brake Bleeding question

[DenyP]

I just went through my front brakes complete master cyl, new lines, calipers. Will a mighty vac work with speed bleeders? After an hour of pumping the brakes and little result I am ready to buy one!

Deny

[jjz28]

The best way I have personally done it was to use a big syringe like those gas mixture syringes and push the fluid through backwards. The last time I tried it, nothing would work and the o ring on the piston was messed up letting just a little air in. So I put the caliper off my xs750 on and pushed the fluid through backwards and it worked perfect. I think if it don't work like that, you have a leak or something sticking somewhere or the spooge hole is dirty. I will always use that method now because it is so easy. I have never had a mighty vac so I don't know about them, I hear they are good.

[FJ111200]

All you need to do is, take out the bleed nipple and fill the reservoir with fluid, pump the lever a couple of times and hold, then put your finger over the hole where the bleed nipple should be, then release the lever and then your finger from the hole, you should hear a popping or sucking sound, this is the fluid coming down the hose.
Repeat the procedure until fluid appears at the bleed nipple hole, then reinstate the bleed nipple and start the bleed procedure as normal. If needed repeat on the other caliper.
Works every time, no need for mightyvacs, speed bleeders, syringes or other gizmo's. Try it.

[IanDMacDonald]

I second what everybody here is saying. I'll never buy speed bleeders again. They are a one-way check valve, so I'm not sure how that would work in-combo with a mighty vac.

[clcorbin]

I just went through this last year after rebuilding my calipers and master cylinder. The hardest part was getting the MC bled. Removing the line at the MC helped. Once fluid started to get to the piston, I reinstalled the line and then started to pump it down to the calipers.

Once fluid starts to flow down the lines, it goes much faster. I ended up putting a catch can (from my Motive power bleeder kit) on each bleed nipple and left them for an hour with the nipples cracked open. Gravity did most of the rest of the work. Just make sure to check on it from time to time to make sure the MC stays full.

If you have a vacuum pump (powered or hand operated), applying a vacuum to one of the bleed nipples should get things moving much quicker. But it is not required to do the job.

[DenyP]

All your input is greatly appreciated!
I will work some more at bleeding. I bench bled the master cyl, may have to do that again. I have fluid coming out of the bleeders ...! I just installed speed bleeders, and have never used them b/4. Not knowing what to expect is part of my problem. As I understand them, I can just crack one at a time then pump the brakes till no more air escapes then tighten it up and move to the 2nd caliper and repeat. Is that correct?
I still have no pedal er hand brake.

Thanks

Deny

[Courtney]

Hey DennyP, I just used a Mighty-Vac to suck the fluid down from the master cylinder to the calipers with a little work. I teflon taped the stock bleeders so no air could get in that way, and used the MV to suck down the fluid. It took about 4-6 top ups at the MC to accomplish this. I have a new pressure bleeder, and I am thinking that as someone mentioned, pumping fluid UP to the MC is a smart way to go. I am going to try that next time, as it forces all the air UP and into the MC and out of the system. Easy to make your own from a cheap garden pump sprayer like this one.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/RL-Flo-Mas...rayer/13376324

Just remove the end part and get a small spring clamp to hold the hose on the end of the bleeder and give it a few pumps.

[jjz28]

Hey DennyP, I just used a Mighty-Vac to suck the fluid down from the master cylinder to the calipers with a little work. I teflon taped the stock bleeders so no air could get in that way, and used the MV to suck down the fluid. It took about 4-6 top ups at the MC to accomplish this. I have a new pressure bleeder, and I am thinking that as someone mentioned, pumping fluid UP to the MC is a smart way to go. I am going to try that next time, as it forces all the air UP and into the MC and out of the system. Easy to make your own from a cheap garden pump sprayer like this one.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/RL-Flo-Mas...rayer/13376324

Just remove the end part and get a small spring clamp to hold the hose on the end of the bleeder and give it a few pumps.

That's basically what the big syringe does. I think they are around $4. Just put a hose from it to the bleeder nipple and push the fluid backwards into the MC. I have never had to bleed after that, just push the fluid through if IRC. Also as asked about the speed bleeders, I thought you didn't need to crack them open just pump the brake. If you had to crack them open, it would just be like a regular bleeder.

[DenyP]

That's basically what the big syringe does. I think they are around $4. Just put a hose from it to the bleeder nipple and push the fluid backwards into the MC. I have never had to bleed after that, just push the fluid through if IRC. Also as asked about the speed bleeders, I thought you didn't need to crack them open just pump the brake. If you had to crack them open, it would just be like a regular bleeder.

You do have to crack the speed bleeders, just don't have to close them to pump, at least as I understand it.
Solved the problem with the fronts. I rebled the master cyl again and that was the trick. 5 or 6 pumps and it's there. I will try the syringe for the back brakes once a replacement master cyl arrives I got on e-bay, and I've put a kit in it.

Thanks

Deny

[skids]

Cover your paint job and watch the reservoir closely!

[jjz28]

Sorry, I knew you had to open them to begin with, just not close them and crack them every time. Glad your getting it worked out.

[Rasputin]

Speed Bleeders are a wonderful thing to have. They will not work as advertised if the brake system is full of air. Once brake fluid is present they work great. On a new (dry) system with rebuilt M/C and new brake lines, I simply pull them completely out and use my finger to plug and open the bleed hole until fluid starts moving out of the master cylinder.
Once the fluid is moving re-install the speed bleeders and tighten them down. Then open them a 1/4 turn or so, install a tube from the speed bleeder to an empty container. While keeping the M/C full move the lever and the speed bleeders will do the job of opening and closing the bleed screw automatically. That is the beauty of the ball and spring design. Continue to pump the lever until no more bubbles appear and you are golden. Then tighten the speed bleeder into place.
Yes a miti vac will suck through a speed bleeder if it is opened a bit. When closed (or tightened) it will act the same as a solid plug.
I have been trying a different method myself. I use a wind shield washer pump. It was about 20 bucks from NAPA. I hook a hose to the lower bleed and into an empty bottle on the other end. I feed the M/C off a bottle of new brake fluid and when the system is full (or nearly). Then I put the return line in the M/C and simply circulate the system with brake fluid until the bubbles are gone. Cost me the pump and some tubing to be able to reach stuff, some wires and clips to hook onto the battery and that is about it.
I will tell you that it is the best thing I ever tried when it comes to bleeding the linked system on a 81LH. Bleeding that system the old way is almost impossible but this made it a 10 minute job. I imagine I looked like a mad scientist with all the tubing and such installed but I bled it from back brake caliper to front brake caliper. The whole system was air free in less than 10 minutes.

[DenyP]

Thanks again for your responses!!! I never cease to be amazed with the inventiveness of this group of people. Talk about some great ideas.

Deny

[Diskman01]

Just a quick note...

Reverse bleeding on a vehicle with ABS will sometimes anger the ABS pumps/valves.

[mikubuilder]

Ras, we need pics to copy your setup