special fork questions

[Bonz]

A few other things I do to make installing the new fork seals easier and help the overall process.

Use the old seal to press on the new seal when installing. It's really easy to get the seal started by hand, then set the old seal on top and tap the new one in with a rubber mallet or carefully with a hammer. Can't hurt a seal by using the old seal to tap it in.

When replacing the air caps, before you put the spring back in, index the cap to see where the threads engage, then you can start the cap right at the place the threads catch and it makes doing it by hand a pretty simple task. Otherwise you are jacking around trying to find where very fine threads engage while pushing down and turning against upward spring pressure.

I second not using loctite in the damper rod bolt. Pain in the arse to remove the next time. Tighten it down correctly with the copper washer and you are good to go.

[crazy steve]

If you use the tips here (http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37399), you don't need to worry about cutting the seal.

And using the PVC to drive the seal in is pretty much screw-up proof...

[skids]

It is a good write-up Steve.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Bonz,

I just have to disagree on the locktite issue. That bolt is the only thing keeping the slider on the end of the fork upper tube, if it loosens and falls out, , the front slider(s) could slide off the end of the tubes, a rather catastrophic ending IMHO! Just Blue locktite, not the red stud type.
A reversible drill with an allen key end that fits into the hex head can help SPIN the bolt out once it's broken free from the locktite, along with the use of the wooden dowel/stick to hold the damper rod still. The front wheel falling off would be more of a PITA to me!

It doesn't show or come with a lockwasher, just the sealing copper washer, similar to the ones for the brake hoses.

T.C.

[bikerphil]

I've been running the cheapo MikesXS emulators in my special forks for a while now (20K) with progressive springs and the ride is superb. No air assist needed, who needs the hassle of checking that all the time, JMHO

[DeanR]

A tip someone posted that we should get added to the fork tip is to INDEX the cap once it's been removed.

Yep, a very handy tip.

[jjz28]

Well, you guys have took a lot of fear I had out of it. I will tackle anything usually, I was just afraid I would get it apart and not get it back together and not be able to ride. I work on all my own stuff. The only thing I really have NO idea about is synching. It runs great now so I am not worried to much about the synching anyway. Thanks guys, I will be ordering that tool to pull the seals also. I LOVE TOOLS!

[Bonz]

Blue Loctite isn't going to hurt anything, other than to make the process more difficult to where a tool is needed to remove the bolt the next time. Use the loctite if you have concerns.

With a steel screw in an aluminum fork, torqued to correct specs I don't see it coming out.

My thought would be the factory manual is the place to look, and I haven't looked at mine to see if it is recommended on the XS 1100's to use blue loctite. I recall hearing the XJ manual may call for it, but do not know about the XS manual. I haven't heard mention of any owners saying the bolt was loose when they went to take it out, loctite or not.

As an aside, wouldn't the axle position under the bolt on the Standard model keep the bolts from backing out catastrophically?