brake rebuild problems

[Foolber]

actually i did have to rout the line from the MC to the joint a different way due to it being a little longer than i would of thought it to be. so were it is connected to the joint it is sitting a little sideways, no kinks though. im letting it sit overnight with a ziptie on the lever to see whats happens.

as for the rear MC, it is leaking out of the plunger so that will come back off and ill have to double check the seals to make sure they went on the right way, it is very possible i did this with both MC's (although the front isnt leaking anywhere) since i didn't have anything to go off of. no manual. just the original ate to ****, gummed up seals lol. iv looked at the bike bandit diagrams but those are to blurry you cant really tell anything. doesnt anyone have a big picture that shows the plunger for the rear intact?

[jetmechmarty]

Any help?

[Foolber]

yea but its hard to see the way the seals are facing on there, and im not sure if that is my bike lol. this is a 1978 XS1100 E

[bikerphil]

The cupped end of the seal faces towards the banjo bolt.

[Foolber]

i know i got the one in there right, the one that touches the spring, but the ones on the piston im not to sure of they are facing the right direction.

[crazy steve]

doesnt anyone have a big picture that shows the plunger for the rear intact?

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37209

[Foolber]

perfect! thank you! i will get to the front MC tomorrow, i just got done taking the rear MC off and checking my seal, it was on backwards. (according to my previous old piston and seal) when reassembled it worked alot better while on the bench, it was able to move freely in the bore. before hand i could barley get it to come more than half way out while attempting bleeding. i quickly bled the rear and it seems to be "ok" no leaks and piston is moving, but still has some air in it so ill continue that tomorrow also thanks guys!

[Eveready1100]

Quickest way I've found to get fluid through a fresh M/C is to undo the line at the splitter and loop it back up into the M/C reservior. Fill up with fluid and gently pump the fluid round till the bubbles cease to come out of the line.
Then reconnect the line to the splitter and you are ready to bleed the rest of the system.

[Foolber]

Quickest way I've found to get fluid through a fresh M/C is to undo the line at the splitter and loop it back up into the M/C reservior. Fill up with fluid and gently pump the fluid round till the bubbles cease to come out of the line.
Then reconnect the line to the splitter and you are ready to bleed the rest of the system.

yea ill give that a try, its been gravity bleeding for over 15 hours now and nothing

[Foolber]

ok so i cant even get fluid to come out of the line from the mc to the joint as you described above. am i supposed to plug the line so it can build pressure or just hold the line over the reservoir and pump as normal?

[bikerphil]

I think he is saying to put the end of the line in the reservoir while pumping.

[mikubuilder]

Just a thought....would clogged up spooge hole cause lack of pressure? Might be worth checking...

[Foolber]

ye i have the MC off again, my snap ring pliers dont go down in there so im fighting that ring again, but ill take it apart and double check everything. i didnt know that reservoir comes apart so ill have to do that and clean under that.

[Foolber]

so on the piston and seal picture in the link above, which way does the forward seal face? does the grooved end of the seal face toward the spring and cup? or toward the end with the washer and snap ring? my grooved end currently faces toward the spring right now, but i will add it does not move with ease, its hard as heck to get him to slide in and out with my hand. in my experience with seals usually the grooved end goes toward the oil, like with forks and crank seals and such. same here?

and i removed the reservoir and it was still joe dirty, so thats all cleaned now and hopefully that was part of the problem (or just the problem)

[bikerphil]

The cup end faces the spring. You can clean the bore out some with some 600 grit sand paper rolled up. When you go ahead and bleed next time, attach a block of wood or similar to the handlebar grip to prevent pulling the lever in too far which can cause a seal to flip over.