bike wont start, still

[BA80]

Steve types faster......

[Throop25]

okay, i misread the voltmeter the first time when my killswitch is off i have almost twelve votls on the first red wire, .33mvolts on the second, when i turn it to the run position i lose volts on the one that had volts

[crazy steve]

That's a grey area for me. As I said, I've not dealt with the safety switches other than I've heard that they tend to be a PITA.

The 'safety switch' circuit on the '81s isn't as nearly complicated as the XJ. Basically, it's just a normally-open relay that interrupts power to the starter solenoid, with the relay closing if the neutral light is on or if the clutch is pulled, allowing the bike to start. But if the ignition power isn't getting out of the kill switch, nothing downstream (ignition, solenoid, or the safety relay) will get power...

[crazy steve]

okay, i misread the voltmeter the first time when my killswitch is off i have almost twelve votls on the first red wire, .33mvolts on the second, when i turn it to the run position i lose volts on the one that had volts

You didn't 'lose' power, that shows that power is going through the switch. So you have power into/though the switch, does this power go back into the harness and supply the rest of the circuit, or do you have a bad connection?

[motoman]

The 'safety switch' circuit on the '81s isn't as nearly complicated as the XJ. Basically, it's just a normally-open relay that interrupts power to the starter solenoid, with the relay closing if the neutral light is on or if the clutch is pulled, allowing the bike to start. But if the ignition power isn't getting out of the kill switch, nothing downstream (ignition, solenoid, or the safety relay) will get power...

No side-stand safety switch on the 81's, just on the XJ's. Also, the 81's Special and Standard right side control assembly HAS to be grounded in order for the START button to work. Normally, the metal bars serves this purpose, unless the bars have been changed to something painted, powder-coated or otherwise.

[Throop25]

okay so i took the switch apart i have 11 volts, on the first red wire when its off and .33mv on the other, then i turn it on and on the red wire i only have .33mv

[BA80]

Throop, try connecting those two red wires together and see if things start working. A safety pin works well if you just poke it through both wires and make a connection.

[BA80]

No side-stand safety switch on the 81's, just on the XJ's. Also, the 81's Special and Standard right side control assembly HAS to be grounded in order for the START button to work. Normally, the metal bars serves this purpose, unless the bars have been changed to something painted, powder-coated or otherwise.

I thought there was a ground wire run to the start button after 79.

[BA80]

I thought there was a ground wire run to the start button after 79.

Nope, just checked my SG and there's only 3 wires.

I wish y'all would quit making me run out to the garage. It's raining and every time I do I track mud on my kitchen floor.

[Throop25]

okay, im gonna try that, be back in five

[Throop25]

no power on second red wire or blue wire ground is works

[Throop25]

blue wires on the button

[BA80]

I don't know if anyone else got that but I didn't.

[DGXSER]

SOME of the 81 models did get the clutch safety switch. I had one that did, and I had one that did not.

The 80-81 model starter buttons have a ground wire, black wire to the right hand switch. The earlier models required the switch to ground to the handle bars. My guess is they implemented this ground wire when they went to the MNS version where they were painting the bars black. If your SG only has three wires, two red/white and a blue/white, then that switch is off a 78-79 model.

Here is a simplified diagram of the starting circuit, minus the clutch switch.



The wire from the key switch to the fuse is Tan, the wire from the fuse to the kill switch (stop-run-stop switch) is red/white, and the wire from the kill switch is red/white to the solenoid. The wire from the solenoid to the starter button is blue/white.

A local XSive once had a similar issue, he and another very talented and smart local XSive had spent an hour or two working on this. He had recently upgraded the fuse box. It had power across the ATC fuse, but, no power on the red/white wire at the kill switch. When I got there to help I pulled out my meter and checked things out. 12 V at the tan wire at the fuse, 12 volts across the ATC fuse, nothing at the main switch. Ended up, the crimp on the terminal of the red white wire at the fuse box was no good. replaced the terminal end and it cranked right up.

Now, if you get 12 volts at either side of the kill switch in the right handle bar, and not on the other with it in run position, the switch needs some attention. If your saying you get 12 volts with the switch in the off position at one side, but that same side goes to nothing when you turn the switch to on, that makes no sense to me.

[DGXSER]

So your saying you got 12 volts going to your kill switch, but nothing coming out. Well....you have a bad switch. You can take it apart and clean it, or get a replacement.