broken float post

[old_skool]

While disassembling my carbs getting ready for cleaning, noticed the dreaded PO has been here before and broke a float post, on my number 3 bank, I wouldn't mind replacing it eventually, but for now, a repair is in order, I'm not a big fan of having JB weld or other products inside my carb that doesn't belong there, so I opt for a more permanent solution. First, grind off the broken post down to the shoulder, drill and tap, add one bolt, grind of the head and level with the other post, a little shaping and grind a flat surface on the inside of the bolt for both the next drilling step and clearance for the float, drill a parallel hole for the float pin, clean and finish. I used a bolt that was all threaded, even though I'm happy with the results, I'm going to do it again with a shoulder bolt, give it a cleaner and permanent home with loctite, note, do not add loctite to the threads of your new bolt until it's completely modified and has a correct fit, check for interference with the float and bowl. Finito!

[XS1100 Newbie]

Good fix. Looks good.

[Diskman01]

This is amazing! Good work!

[old_skool]

Thanks, I'll take better pics with a digital camera instead of my phone when I redo it one more time

[LoHo]

What is it about the #3 carb? All of my strangeness has occurred in the 3-hole. Is three unlucky in Japan?

[clcorbin]

That's pretty much what I did to repair a broken post on one of mine a couple of years ago. Unfortunately, I was the moron PO that broke the original...

FYI: A pair of side cutters work very well to remove stuck pins! The angle on the cutter face works to wedge the pin away from the post without bending. Of course, I guess you COULD go nuts and cut the head off the pin, but I've never had one THAT tight before.

[old_skool]

from post #1;

While disassembling my carbs getting ready for cleaning, noticed the dreaded PO has been here before and broke a float post

That's exactly how I remove mine, with side cutters, this was broken by the PO

[DGXSER]

Somewhere around here I can not find at the moment is a tool that Ken Talbot designed for removing the float post. I made one and it saved me big time. IMHO, it is by far and away the best method to remove the pins without breaking a post.

[old_skool]

The problem is supporting both post simultaneously, it's one thing to have a socket on the bottom, but you need some kind of support in between the two so when tapping on the pin, it doesn't beak the post from the side you're tapping on, which is usually the post you'll find broken. Most of the time, supporting the bottom post, a light tap on the pin, then using the side cutters, gets it done every time, unless, some one has been there before, then you have no clue how weak the post really is, it may already have stress cracks and is barely hanging on for life. As long as we have do-able repairs, it's not a big loss, just have to make sure the repair is as parallel and perpendicular as possible and the float moves smoothly without hanging up, and the repair will last forever.

[old_skool]

I'm going to go to the hardware store and try and find a bolt with a decent solid shoulder so I can make it as perfect as possible, and will explain the repair and take more pics, another note, is to make sure when you drill and tap into the post, you initial drilling is centered or your post will be offset and so will your float.

[DGXSER]

Look at pages 6 and 7 of this thread, you will see the tool. It captures both float post and then pushes the pin out.

[CaptonZap]

Since I am an old tinner, I tend to look at problems from the perspective of "What can I do with a piece of tin and a pair of tin snips?"
Here is my solution.
I take a piece of tin from something thicker than a tin can, (or double a tin can over,) and cut it into a strip, with the width on one end is just wider than the distance between the two posts, and the width on the other end is just narrower. A wedge, if you will, that when inserted between the two posts, will support them while you place the post with the flanged end of the pin on a socket, and you tap the other end of the pin lightly with a small hammer. Gently, you don't want to mushroom it.
Of coarse, if you talk to an old carpenter, he will argue that the proper material to use for the wedge is a piece of hard wood, oriented so the grain runs parallel with the pin.
Since carpenters have a longer historical history than tinner's, and some folks may want to hope that Jesus is on their side while attempting this sort of thing, it boils down to one of those "pick your poison" situations. Or more precisely, "what tools do I have to work with?"
Any way, just another way to skin a cat, CZ

[old_skool]

Look at pages 6 and 7 of this thread, you will see the tool. It captures both float post and then pushes the pin out.

of what thread??

[DGXSER]

Sorry, THIS thread.

[old_skool]

actually, page 5, these dudes....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/Dscf1917.jpg